Hawk upgrades, mods and accessories
 

I cut off the buckles (leaving the loops intact) and drilled some holes in the seat pan to get a Coleman Comfort Ride(TM) Seat Protector to fit like a glove. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JMK7N8
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Trunk fit beautifully, just needed some large nuts to raise it enough that I can get the seat on and off and the rear slots had to be filed a little bit to line up with the bolt holes on the Hawk. The trunk is easily removed, just turn the key and press a button. Now I just need a tank bag and some saddle bags.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351721854900

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12" X 3.5" OWNER MANUAL CANISTER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111693466254

NGK (2202) DPR8EIX-9 Iridium IX Spark Plug
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSGWZC

MSR DR-Z400 shifter (1 inch longer than stock)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJAVJ4

With the stock carb, I removed the plug over the idle mixture screw and turned it out 1 3/4 turns. I used a center punch to indent and then tap off the tamper proof screws, shimmed up the needle with three #4 washers and replaced the main jet with a large round size 110 (N100.604/110).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171069472877

Replaced the front sprocket with a 17 tooth one. Discovered you can't get the cover back on with the chain on the 17 tooth, have to put the chain on after the cover is installed.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DNA0KA

Nice! I have one on my Rhino and love it. It doesn't look like much but after about an hour in the saddle, you realize that you're not sore yet. Well worth the 20 bucks.
Yes, the buckles were in the wrong spot for me too. They are no longer there. I tied them across. My only advice is to let it dry in the hot sun after a wash or you'll definitely get wet.

I'll probably come up with something to put between myself and the Comfort Ride for those days that it got wet. It'll keep your butt dry on a hot sweaty day, but wet when it gets wet. I think it's a good tradeoff.

Looks awesome man!! Thank you for the detailed pics!

Looks sharp. I need to add that canister to my list of mods ;)

Looks great! I'm anxious for a ride report on the Coleman.

I forgot to mention, I already discovered a weak spot in the fuel line. I tried bending it at the weak spot and it opened right up, doubtful it would have lasted me even 100 miles. I had the exact length of Tygon fuel line that I needed left over from when I replaced the fuel line on my TaoTao scooter.

how many inches does the pad add?

As many as you put between it and the seat. By itself, a little over 1/2 inch, but, it also helps you maintain a sitting position a little further back without sliding forward adding yet another 1/2 inch.

It does bunch up some in the low spot so possibly close to 3/4 inch there.

Can't wait until I can start doing the fun mods! Looks good, noted the canister for future mod.

Inexpensive AGM battery from Chrome Battery fits really well, just needed some padding hot glued to it to make up the size difference. The YTZ7S-BS is shorter, BUT, a little wider so the plates have more surface area providing higher CCA. The boot actually works when you use it in a top mount configuration so that's what I did.

I've used batteries from Chrome Battery in the past and am very happy with them.

https://www.chromebattery.com/ytz7s-...s-battery.html

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pcs you're the man!!

L*W*H Shorter (~1") / wider (~5/32") / taller (~5/32")
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Same seller in different platform = save $ https://www.bonanza.com/listings/YTZ...Z250/656293663

I have the same seat pad, trunk and manual canister for my Lifan, but I haven't actually installed the pad yet. Good idea about cutting off the buckles.


Is that a Class A motorhome in your first pic?

Yes, about to become my full-time home.

Any good ideas for putting something inbetween the pad and seat to add a little seat height? I'm trying to think of something that wouldn't slide around a bunch and would add like an inch or two

I'd try this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCVWIRG

I admit that I'm quite interested in that lifestyle. The hard part for me would be no shop.

How did you mount the canister. I can't see any holes that line up in the area of the picture.

Thanks, I should have known MotoCheez would have a video.

I forgot to update this when I drained the (factory) motor oil out of the forks and put 170ml (or was it 180ml, I forgot) of Maxima 10w fork oil in each of them. They firmed up nicely and no longer bottom out. Had I know spud recommend Mobile 1 ATF, I probably would have used it instead:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...t=chart&page=2

Rear Brake Light Banjo Bolt Pressure Switch

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251717584893
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And painted the trunk
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I was just going to ask where to find a brake light switch and the one on the hawk is a cheap POS and mine is now totally broke. Thanks for the link!!

If you don't need one right away, China is a good option.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hydrauli...NTyI-e&vxp=mtr

Yes, if you don't mind the wait, you can get them for $6.56 less (basically 1/2 price) from China.

toy hauler/shop trailer pulled behind the motorhome

something like this should do nicely


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How hard was it to wire up the rear brake banjo pressure switch?

pull out the two pins from the old switch using anything you can find to depress the little tabs on the pins, insert the pins from the banjo pressure switch, plug the connector back in..... done wired.

45t rear sprocket makes a huge difference, though, it might pair up better with a 16t in the front than the 17t that I used. Paired with the 17t is fine for on the street, but, a little taller than I'd like on the trails.

I'll probably keep the 17t on it most of the time but I have a 16t on it's way for when needed.
45t rear: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068O5W3M
16t front: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVVXMW

I went 16/44 on the gearing. It works fine for both on and off road.

16/44 is only a torque gain of 3.7%, speed decrease of 3.7% from 17/45. I doubt I'd like it any better on the trails. I think 16/45 (nearly 6% compared to 17/45) is probably the best compromise and with front sprockets being so easy to change, switching between compromise and ideal street gearing is easy.

17/50 is probably the best compromise for anyone spending much time on the trails that wants street ability. I thought it was great on the trails, but, just didn't do it for me on the highway. It was okay, but, had me longing for more.

15/45 is only a 2% increase torque / decrease speed difference from 17/50. Maybe I won't get the 16..... I thought I had ordered it but don't see it under my orders. I liked 17/50 on trails, 15/45 would be nearly identical.

I'm only 5'10" and 165 pounds with out my "gear" on. I think I did the diet wrong because I used to be 5"11" and 155 two years ago.


A persons weight is a big factor when choosing the proper gearing.

New instrument cluster installed. I took my time and did some grinding, filing, and spacering the bracket to get it as close to perfect as is possible.

With the tank and panels off, it was a good time to load up every electrical connector with dielectric grease so I did that.

I wish I had known my fuel sender was off, would have been the perfect time to bend the wire to the float. The factory cluster's fuel guage was broken so I had no way of knowing the sender needed tweaking. I'll see what I can do from the filler opening, maybe a dowel with a hook on it and another dowel that has been notched will do the trick.
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Sorry I forgot to take photos of the header pipe when it was cut open, I cut a window 1/2" left of the left weld and 1/2" of the right weld, and the bottom cut was 180 degrees of the top cut.

I applied several coats of DEI Hi-Temp Silicone Coating to the header pipe, then I wrapped it with 15' of DEI Black 1" Exhaust Wrap, which I had soaked in water before applying. Drove the bike for about 1/2 hour to dry the wrap and then applied 3 coats of the DEI Hi-Temp Silicone Coating to the wrap.

DEI Hi-Temp Silicone Coating: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221945914241
DEI Black 1" Exhaust Wrap - 15': https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E28EH0

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Here it is after using hose clamps to hold screws to which I screwed on stand-offs to which I attached the factory heat shield.

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To keep the chain from rubbing against the tire, take a box knife or razor blade to the ridge.

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Now, instead of pushing the chain towards the tire, it is pushing it away from the tire.

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Once again, I forgot about this thread when I posted my latest update. Anyway, here's the latest:

Wolftrax posted pics of his Hawk with the Laminar LIP H2104C (for the Honda CB500X) on it and it was exactly what I wanted so I decided to purchase and install one.

http://www.laminarlip.com/cb500x.php

It couldn't be more perfect. Because of the way it is curved, it does the job of much taller windscreens. Wind is deflected away from my chest, and, from my neck up, it is no different than without the windscreen. I may even be getting a few more MPH with the Laminar LIP.

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You can see why such a short windscreen is as effective as taller ones in this photo:
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