Mowett Mustang repower.
 

No Chinese parts yet, but I am sure it will come.

The machine.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Dk1Ni5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Dk1Ni5qcGc.jpg

The engine donar.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Dk1NC5qcGc.jpg

3.75 briggs fits nicely.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TAwNC5qcGc.jpg

Off to get some supplies.

Now I get it. :lol:

I got two pics and two dreaded red X's, but then I can see your pics from the reply window. Odd.

I just received a Murray (Briggs) 6 horse vertical, and I have a Cadet 75 rear axle and a Foote transmission. I thought about a similar project, but I don't have time for it. Do you have a use for the rear axle and transmission? The input pinion gear is a bit worn (item 21), but it's otherwise in good shape.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...ansmission.jpg

I don't need it, but I think that may be a popular one for mower racing.

Here is a video that shows the clutch setup.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p21E2...eature=related

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TAwNC5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TIzMS5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TIzMS5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TIzMi5qcGc.jpg


Looks like I need about a 1.5-2" pulley to fit on the engine. I need a new belt so I can play with pulley size alittle. Of course the bigger I go the faster it will go.

Will stick to a slower one though.

After I get the pulleys and belt setup we will take it apart for paint. Need a steering wheel and a seat too.

Funny you should say that. I got the parts from an old refugee of the Fraser Valley Lawnmower Racing Association. :D

I was trying to build a tow vehicle for Son of Weldangrind's Jr. Drag Racing team at his middle school, but I ended up getting a complete Cadet 85 with electric start. I cut off the deck, re-geared the sprockets for more speed and added a free battery. I think the school still uses it, and that was three years ago.

I see that you have all the clutch parts you need.

I am missing that rod that goes from the pedal to the idler pulley/clutch arm. The only other missing parts are the seat and steering wheel.

I spent about 30 minutes today taking it apart.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TMwNS5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TMwNS5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TMwNS5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TMyMS5qcGc.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...yMS5qcGc-1.jpg

Next to to fix some of the bent pieces and start with degrease and sanding.

I think there's a workaround for the clutch. I was nosing around Princess Auto today, and they have belt drive centrifugal clutches available in 3/4", 7/8" and 1" shaft size. They aren't cheap, but it would do away with the entire clutch assembly and make it into a semi-auto for you daughter. You could simply run a belt from the centrifugal clutch to the transmission,

I was actually thinking about something like that. Will have to see if they have them at TSC.

It would make it much easier to operate for them.

What size is the shaft on the engine?

I am not sure. 5/8 or 3/4. I need to measure it. It is also pretty short. About 2" long.

$56 here
http://www.gokartsupply.com/clutches.htm

I only have about $30 in the whole project so far.

$56.00 is fair. The prices I found go from there up to $100.00. What size is the Elite centrifugal clutch shaft? That might be your Chinese angle in this project.

The elite uses a cvt and I think it would be difficult to setup. The belt clutch would be easily with just a belt tensioner.

I am watching a used one on ebay. I think this clutch would make it easier to drive. Also looking at a brake setup that will fit on the axle.

Then install two pedals.

I'm not talking about the entire CVT, just the drive clutch portion. Would that shaft size happen to be the same? Why do you need a belt tensioner? Perhaps you could find the right size belt and then install the drive and driven pulley at the same time, just like timing gears on a car engine.

The engine and transmission don't have any position adjustment. With the v-belt I would need to make sure the belt is resonably tight to keep it from slipping. I think the stock belt "clutch" could be used as a tensioner.

I did see one that had cogs on it.

The shaft on the honda is about 20mm. Too small.

When engines are assembled for dyno testing, it's very common to just place a belt between the crank and water pump with no form of tensioner. The pulleys are placed on at the same time, rather than trying to pry the belt over the pulley.

That said, your idea of using the stock clutch setup as a tensioner is brilliant. :idea:

I see where you are going. It would require having a belt that is just right in length. I think that the factory tensioner with a spring would work.

Again, you're brilliant. The tensioner wouldn't require a specific belt length. Hope you snag a centrifugal clutch for a good price.

I hope so too. I don't want to spend $50 for one. The idea is to stay cheap, but the clutch is such a good idea it may be worth the money.

Need to trade some more junk.

I really hope it works for you. If the idle is low enough, the clutch should stay below the engagement threshold, which would allow for easy shifting. You wouldn't be able to bang gears at full throttle, but this tractor isn't for you anyway. :lol:

Have you ever tried running gear oil instead of grease in a transmission / transaxle? I keep reading about it online as the preferred lubrication method.

The engine shaft is 7/8".

The transmission is only forward and reverse, but it needs to be stopped to be shifted.

I believe the clutch said 2K engagement. Should be able to get the idle below that.

Bought one of these. Hopefully it will work.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220844777521...84.m1439.l2649

I also want a brake of some sort.

That looks like a good score. Any idea what brand it is? If it's a common brand (like Comet), it'll be rebuildable. COuld you use a cable or rod actuated disc brake? I have a Comet caliper, and you could use a #35 sprocket as a rotor.

I don't know the brand, but it looks like the noram clutches.

It may be possible to use the rear sprocket and just mount a caliper. I need to measure the axle diameter to see what will fit.

If you try to use the existing rear sprocket as a rotor, the pads will become contaminated by chain oil. It's best to mount another sprocket elsewhere, and it can't be thicker than #35, IIRC.

Good point on the oil. Didn't think of that.

Are you gonna need the caliper that I have?

Not sure, let me think about how we are going to go about it first.

One possibility is to measure the diameter of the rear axle, and then see if you can find a weld-on hub that matches it (like a W or whatever). You could weld a #35 sprocket to it and then secure the hub to the axle shaft with the supplied set screws, and even tack weld it for extra insurance. The only remaining puzzle would be mounting the caliper.

I just measured the rear axle. 3/4" The rear wheels are only 9.5 inches tall so a small diameter rotor would be necessary. I have no problem welding a hub in place to hold it.

Can you find a hub locally that has a 3/4" ID and will accept a #35 sprocket? If not, I can check at Princess.

Also, do you have a way to mount a caliper?

I think the tractor supply will have the needed parts. I can make a bracket for a caliper.

Let me know if you need it, and I'll box it up.

I will. Will have to make a trip over to TSC to see what they have.

Trip to TSC and was skunked. No #35 sprockets. No cart brakes.

Emilie started hand painting the frame after I laid the white base coat. :wink:
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TEyNi5qcGc.jpg

What diameter #35 (or rotor) would you need?

I think the sprocket is about 5-6 inches in diameter.

Got some pink sprayed.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TUxMC5qcGc.jpg

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TUyMC5qcGc.jpg

That belt clutch. I think I will need to cut the extra shaft portion off and turn it up side down so the pulleys are close to the engine fr belt alignment.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TUyNi5qcGc.jpg

Buford getting some attention.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...TgzOS5qcGc.jpg

And watching the yard.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...Dk1NC5qcGc.jpg

Will the pulley work upside down? I've seen some ads for clutches (pulley or chain) that indicate they will work either way, but I don't know if they all will. It depends whether the weights are designed to move straight out or pivot once centrifugal force kicks in. Does it come apart?

I think it will work. The weights pivot.

It is similar to this one and it says it can run both directions.

http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/H1P37.html?mv_pc=Froogle

I found out that you press the pedal to make it go and let off to make it stop.

Also my Dad bought a seat for it. This project will resume in Kansas. I have all the parts packed up.

Also watching a vintage wheel horse with a mower.