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Chain for Zong in Aust.
I went to local Honda dealer they didn't have KMC O-Ring Chain 428 x132. I was looking for that one as Spud gave good review.
They had another Japanese for $110 don't remember the brand. The KMC chain from http://www.oemcycle.com/Item/product/900269983 shipped to Australia would be $89.64 with priority mail international. Has anyone else found other chains which would be a good deal? Also i was asking a Honda dealer about chain breaker, but he told me that with grinder i can grind the pin on each end and just get 1 extra link with new chain. To reduce few links from 132 links to 126. Would this work fine? |
Fortunately, you have a number of other good choices for a size 428, O-ring drive chain, Pliskin. :) The DID 428V is a very good drive chain, even if it is a bit expensive. ;)
http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com...ing-Chain.aspx In addition to my KMC 428UO, drive chain, I have installed an EK 428SROZ drive chain. It was an excellent drive chain. :) http://www.motorhelmets.com/htm-body...s-428-sroz.htm Both these drive chains come with a clip-type master link. You can easily break several links off a longer chain to make it fit your Zong. The important thing to remember is always cut off an even number of links. ;) I use an angle grinder, or Dremel tool, to trim the stakes off the desired pin, then I use a chain breaker to push the pin out of the chain. Any chain breaker will work, but a heavy-duty chain breaker is best. ;) Here are some examples of chain breakers. http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ker-66488.html http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/.../CHAIN+BREAKER http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/.../CHAIN+BREAKER Spud :) |
Bite the bullet, buy in OZ. If something f***s, at least u can blame & sue.
- There are some poorman's O-ring http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=16310048185 | http://www.zjhql.com/EN/proshow.asp?id=469 That brand using US brand grease & Taiwanese seal, strength isn't par to Taiwanese brand "KMC" BUT better than non o-ring. |
Thanks for the help, Humanbeing. :)
I forgot to mention, in the United States you can also buy the KMC 428UO, drive chain on eBay. :) Perhaps you can also find the KMU 428UO, drive chain on the Australian version of eBay, Pliskin. ;) Spud :) |
Pliskin, those are terrible prices for 428 chain. Is there anything on eBay in Oz that is priced better?
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Those are O-ring drive chains, Weld. ;) Since the drive chain damages the sprockets as it stretches, one needs to replace the sprockets with the drive chain. Therefore, the longer-lasting, O-ring drive chains are actually less expensive than conventional drive chains, as well as requiring less maintenance. :)
However, I think you offered an excellent suggestion to check for drive chains available on eBay. ;) As I said in an earlier post, the KMC 428UO, O-ring drive chain is available for sale on eBay in the United States. :) |
I missed that point. It certainly makes sense that o-ring chains cost more, and are worth it.
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what s the standard chain length on the zong?
are there other sellers with cheaper int mail options? you wouldn t expect to pay more in freight than the item is worth, even if it is heavy. the DID 428 X-ring chain may be a good alternative, but costly at 192 A$: http://www.motorcyclesuperstore.com....um-x-ring.html maybe cheaper elsewhere in oz? |
Thank you Spud for additional chain options. :)
Now that i think of it, that chain that i saw at Honda dealer was DID 428 chain. It looks impressive. I think you can pull tanks with it. While searching for EK 428SROZ drive chain here in Aust. i found this website. https://www.slipstreamperformance.com.au if you go to chains left menu and click on RK takasago chain, there is a list and https://www.slipstreamperformance.co...ducts_id=22848 the one i think should do the job. There is no picture of it. :( What do you think people about this chain? Also it's 126 links, i won't have to do anything to it. Should be o.k for Zong? I am guessing it's o ring but will have to confirm. Quote:
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Zingshoen are you still on your stock chain? There are also 2 more bike shops in town so will check them next week as well to see if they have something. Thank you Gentlemen for your input. Always appreciated. :D |
The RK 428SO drive chain is very good, Pliskin. Any of the brand name, O-ring drive chains will work well on your Zong. In the United States, the KMC 428UO chain is the least expensive, followed by the EK 428SROZ. However, prices are probably different in Australia. ;)
I found the KMC 428UO drive chain on eBay from a vendor who will ship internationally; here's the link. ;) http://www.ebay.com/itm/428-X-132-Li...#ht_1481wt_905 Spud :) |
Thank you Spud for the link. I don't have account with ebay so couldn't check how much would be with shipping.
But I am guessing the price would be similar to http://www.oemcycle.com. You have much better deals on products over there. :wink: |
You're welcome, Pliskin. :) The shipping charge to Australia for the eBay, KMC 428UO drive chain is $19.95.
Spud :) |
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As Spud also says, removing links with a mini grinding tool (like a Dremel) or with an angle grinder is easy. I don't even use a chain breaker. |
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Another very important point to consider is this; don't cut the chain too short! 8O If you cut the chain too long, you can always cut it again. If you cut the chain too short, you have ruined the entire chain, unless you can use it on another motorcycle. ;) When changing sprockets on a bike, the stock chain length will frequently change. Therefore, you can't be sure how many chain links you need to add, or remove. Once again, keep an even number of chain links, or you won't be able to install the female (wider) master link. ;) When I need to determine a new chain length, I loosen the rear wheel and push it as far forward as the chain adjusters will allow. Then I install the chain, and wrap it around both sprockets. I inspect to see where I would have two male (narrower) links line up on the rear sprocket, a tooth apart, and the place where I would install the master link. This space will be farther back than the most forward position of the wheel on the chain adjusters, otherwise you couldn't get the chain installed. ;) After "measuring" twice to confirm I got the correct pin, I remove the chain and grind the stakes off the desired pin. Then I get my heavy-duty chain breaker, and push the pin out of the chain. :) Incidentally, it requires a lot of torque to push the pin out of a new, quality, O-ring drive chain! 8O Some people don't bother to grind the stakes off the pin before they push/pound it out. However, I find the process is difficult enough even after I have ground the stakes off the pin! 8O You really have to torque on the chain breaker for quite a while to push the pin out of a new, quality, O-ring drive chain. ;) Spud :) |
The newer drive chains, especially O-ring drive chains, are constructed better better than the older drive chains. Therefore, you will discover a chain breaker really does facilitate the process of shortening a drive chain. ;) It was much easier to drive the pin out of older chains, especially conventional chains. However, I'm sure you will be glad you purchased a chain breaker when it comes time to drive the pin out of a newer, quality, O-ring drive chain. ;)
Spud :) |
If you cut the chain too short, you could use two master links. It's not ideal, but I sure would if I paid good money for an o-ring chain.
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pliskin, i m still on the original chain, just keeping it well greased.
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I wasn't planning on getting a chain-braker but maybe i'll have to rethink that as well. Quote:
Do you hit the pin with something after you grind the tip, so it comes out? I should also check some youtube videos. |
Just my $.02 on chain breakers. I have never owned won, and unfortunately I only put on a small fraction of the mileage that Spud does, and rarely need to remove links from a chain.
When I do need to shorten a chain, I just completely remove the head on the pin where i want to break the chain with an angle grinder, and tap out the pin w/ a punch...or a framing nail if i can't find my punch :oops: Either way, you can get chainbreaker and do it like the pros and Spud, or use a grinder, a hammer and a punch like me and the redneck hillbillies. You're in luck pliskin...this guy working without a chainbreaker speaks Aussie as well...I think http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMK7Y2KUz-c |
I do it exactly like wilserchinarider; they key word is "tap" the pin out. There will be no force required once the peened portion of the pin is ground away. They literally fall apart at that point. Just take care to not grind on a link that you need to keep.
If you're at all concerned about grinding too far, you can just grind a little, so as to remove the hardness layer. You can then use a very sharp file to work the reast of the peened portion away. Even if you get a chain breaker, you need to grind the pin. You definitely don't want to force the peened portion through the cylinder on a brand new chain. |
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If that gentleman wanted to remove two links, he cut the chain too short. He actually removed four links from his drive chain. ;) Why was he wearing a ski mask? :?: I wouldn't do this job in my bathroom, either. ;) Spud :lol: |
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I must admit, I have never tapped the pin out of a drive chain I have shortened. ;) Brother Andy offered to shorten my first drive chain at the diesel repair shop he supervises. He ground the pin in a large vise. Then he had to punch the pin pretty hard to remove it. Perhaps the heat from his grinder welded the pin slightly to the link. :? I didn't have access to a vise when I decided to break my next chain. Therefore, the next time I needed to shorten a drive chain, I got a heavy-duty chain breaker on sale from Harbor Freight, which was located about one mile away from my home. I've been using the chain breaker ever since. ;) http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-d...ker-66488.html Quote:
Spud :) |
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If Andy had to apply force to tap the pin out, then the peened end of the pin wasn't completely ground off. When the chain is constructed, the pin is placed in the bore, and then the ends are mushroomed, or peened. I grind the pins intentionally; I don't want any of the mushroomed material to be forced through the bore, in case it should be damaged in the process. I's a delicate dance though, because it's very easy to grind too far. I have. |
This guy removes and adds links with just a hammer and punch, no grinder. 8O Notice in the vid how his thumb is injured. This guy is a graduate from "The School of the Bigger Hammer"
What really surprised me is that he reuses the link??? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WUVhTaGZDf0 |
I guess real men "don't need no stinkin' grinder!" :lol:
I really enjoy the convenience and easy application of my chain breaker. ;) They really don't cost very much. :) Spud :) |
You can also carry a chain breaker with you in your tool kit while traveling on your motorcycle. :) The chain breaker is more portable, and weighs less than a vise. ;) Also, I would trust my chain repair much more after using a chain breaker, rather than a big hammer! :lol:
Spud :) |
Did you decided which drive chain you are going to buy? Please give us an update, Pliskin. :)
Spud :) |
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Thinking back when I changed rear sprockets on my boy's chinabike, I left the chain on the bike, put the oversized chain on the rear sprocket and did surgery to the chain with the grinder on the bike...not saying this is better, but it is fast and dirty keeping w/ the china bike motif... I'm sure the chain breaker is a nice tool to have in your arsenal and is surely more professional, the thing I like about chinabikes is that repairs can usually done be w/ a couple of crecsent wrenches and a "big hammer" :lol: |
The detail I failed to share before is that I use a flap disc on a 4 1/2" grinder for good control, not a grinding disc.
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Thank you wilserchinarider for youtube link. I've checked few now they are very helpful.
Thank you Weldangrind for further explaining the procedure. We'll have to go through this post again when i have to do it. Quote:
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Before deciding for KMC i tried 2 local bike shops. But with no luck. I wanted to settle even for standard chain but they didn't have the length that i required. So last night the link you gave me of KMC chain on ebay, that's the one i purchased. So now i am waiting for it to arrive. It should take between 7 - 35 days. |
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/2842/img3451i.jpg
Thanks to Spud, today i received my chain. :) This is how it arrived. It took only 8 days. :) http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/208/img3449z.jpg KMC chain http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/2117/img3450fo.jpg I won't installed it yet. Need to ask few questions first. Do i count 126 links and cut it to that length or measure it by placing it over the sprocket and do it that way. 2nd question. How do i get the plate on master link pressed. I've seen they use some special tool (riveting tool) on youtube. But how do you guys do it. :?: This is the link on youtube. A bit lengthy video but if you go to 4min, you will see what i am talking about. http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3gdLWZ9fcQ4 Thank you. |
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I would place the chain over the sprockets as I described in the second to last post on the first page of this thread. "When I need to determine a new chain length, I loosen the rear wheel and push it as far forward as the chain adjusters will allow. Then I install the chain, and wrap it around both sprockets. I inspect to see where I would have two male (narrower) links line up on the rear sprocket, a tooth apart, and the place where I would install the master link. This space will be farther back than the most forward position of the wheel on the chain adjusters, otherwise you couldn't get the chain installed. After "measuring" twice to confirm I got the correct pin, I remove the chain and grind the stakes off the desired pin. Then I get my heavy-duty chain breaker, and push the pin out of the chain." After placing the chain as I described, you will probably discover you need to remove 6 links, since you received a 132-link drive chain, and the stock chain length is 126-links. ;) Your KMC 482UO, drive chain comes with a clip type master link. Therefore, you don't need a rivet tool to mushroom the link pins. You merely want to install the link plate with the link pins protruding just far enough to install the clip. You can install the link plate a variety of ways. One method is to use a link press, as shown in the video. You can also coax the link plate onto the chain with a chain breaker. Finally, you can also press the link plate onto the chain with a pair of vice grips. ;) After you have pressed the link plate on the chain, place the clip with the rounded portion of the clip on the leading edge of the link. Finally, push the clip onto the pins with needle nose pliers, and the job is completed. :) That fellow made an excellent video! :D I use the same tools, and do everything the exact way he demonstrates in the video, except I use a clip type master link on all my drive chains. ;) Therefore, I never need to rivet the link pins. :) Spud :) |
Thank you Spud so much. :) I am confident now that i can do it.
Today i've done left crankcase mod so i have posponed replacing the old chain for now. My old chain is not fully stretched yet. But it's close. :lol: |
You're welcome. :D
You were wise to modify the left crankcase cover. Inspecting and replacing both the countershaft spocket, and drive chain will now be much easier tasks for you. ;) Spud :) |
With that mod it should be much easier to replace front sprocket to suit different terrain. 14 tooth should be really good for climbing mountains.
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Spud :) |
Here's a link to my left, crankcase cover modification. :)
http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...ewtopic&t=7559 This thread is located in the Zong Sticky, under the Modifications subheading. ;) http://chinariders.net/modules.php?n...555370765bf5be Spud :) |
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crankcase cover so he would know where to cut it. Pictures were very helpful. :) I can make a new post with pictures of my crankcase mod for chinariders to check? |
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Spud :) |
Yesterday I've replaced my chain with sprockets learned few things along the way. I only had slight trouble with tapping
the pin out once i determined the length. New chain is slightly wider than stock. (My last question will be connected with this-see at the bottom) I can say that I've shortened the new chain to 126 links like stock was. I took few pictures too. http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1068/img4159r.jpg Rear sprocket along new, I was surprised to see very little wear. http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/3707/img4161d.jpg But I am sorry to say that i can't say the same for the counter shaft sprocket from pbi sprockets. (Sorry for the dirt on it) This is only after just under 11,000km (6,800 miles ) I think it's to do with chain alignment rather than quality of sprocket. http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/9746/img4172z.jpg This is the back of it. http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/6451/img4168o.jpg I got curious because i never examined the15 tooth stock when i changed to 16, and yes it was showing same symptoms. Plus some stuff was growing on it. :lol: http://img805.imageshack.us/img805/9387/img4174i.jpg 15 front side. What i am also trying to show is that both sprockets have traveled very similar distance and 15 stock is showing a little less wear. http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/7999/img4175wo.jpg 16 back and 15 front http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/5810/img4178v.jpg Another view of 16 on the left. http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/4825/img4177a.jpg 16 new installed they only made 10 of these at that time for yamaha tw200 owners. Even if i do have to change them after every 10,000km (6,200 miles) they are still very cheap to replace. http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/355/img4176ar.jpg They (http://www.pbisprockets.com) also make 14 tooth and it's made from different material than 16tooth. I think 14 is more durable and I like it better. What do you do with an old chain and sprockets? I've got one more question that i need to ask, but that one is video which I'll upload later. |
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