My Apollo 36 250
 

Hi everybody,

I'm from Idaho and just picked up a Apollo 36 locally for $800. According to previous owner he only used it for ~150miles. He also installed a Mikuni Clone but left the stock jetting 20/100. Reason for sale =>Bike is too tall.

Things I've done:
1. Replaced the jets with 30/110 needle clip on the bottom. ($15) - I'm around 2700ft elevation.
2. Adjusted Valves a bit looser (0.003" INTAKE and 0.004" EXHAUST).
3. Added thread locker on all bolts per info here.
4. Updated the chain roller. ($15)
5. Changed oil to 15W40 and Brake fluid to DOT4.
6. Cleaned out airbox and sprayed oil on the air filters. Updated airbox on pg3.
7. Deleted the EPA stuff by welding the head exhaust cover shut.
8. Cleaned up the crankcase Vent, running straight down.
9. Rear shock wouldn't hold air, found the schrader valve housing leaking. Replaced the O-ring and added teflon tape, pumped to 120PSI. Changed the rear shock out for an 98 Honda CR250 shock on pg3.
10. Inline fuel filter installed and fuel hoses replaced.

Bike rides really good although I haven't had it out on trails yet. I'm 6'2" - 235lbs and bike's got plenty of power. :tup:

Questions: :hmm:
Has anyone figured out a better airbox solution?
I would like to install a cone type air filter inside but it will require some ingenuity.

Also I would like to raise the rear of the bike, any suggestions?
Maybe a larger rear wheel/tire.

:thanks:

What did you do/use for the "Chain Roller Update"

Oh, and welcome to the forum :hi:

Installed this roller:

https://www.amazon.com/All-Balls-Hi-.../dp/B003CK5UK0

Thanks

Welcome! Pics in your first post will make you popular around here. :D


You've been very thorough in the prep of your new bike; it should give you many happy miles. Does it have a 19/17 wheel combo? If so, perhaps there's room in the swingarm for an 18". I like the header as well; is it stainless?


Do you have a pic of the stock air box setup?

Slayder, sounds like you picked it for a good deal and turned it into a little bad ass trail ripper :tup:

Attaching few pictures of the Airbox and potential solution, constructive criticism is welcome. Other ideas are as well.

Header/Exhaust is indeed stainless.

Wheel combo is 21/18, I may fabricate a new link set to raise the rear.

Few more pictures of the Roller / Fuel Hoses and Head plug

I get what you're saying with the air box. Rather than a cone filter, you might have better success with a foam pod in there. They do a great job of filtering out fine dust.


Here's my favourite: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Red-42mm-Ang...ZWcn7M&vxp=mtr


The angle is really handy, but you might be better off with a straight filter. Just search for "42mm pod filter" on eBay. They're cheap enough that you can try both types.
After you have a pod in there, you can likely delete the top air box cover.

Do you have a cat in the header?

I'm not sure, haven't removed the header. It's the same diameter all the way back to exhaust. Have you seen them with cats?

Thank you for the filter link, that should work fine if I can make the reducer inside the airbox.

Yes, most of us have dealt with a cat. It's usually a bulge in the header under the heat shield, but it could also be in a muffler.

Great, now you got me more work. The wife isn't pleased as is :grr:

Took her out and bike did well other then the rear being very hard and the fuel tank mounting bracket broke near the seat. (Easy repair with a few spot welds).
Loosened the spring and lowered pressure to around 60psi, will have to ride and adjust from there.

Also decided to remove the cat, cut the pipe, drilled then removed and Tig welded back together. It sounds much better with the free flowing exhaust. ;)

While I was there decided to raise it by shortening the links, see pictures below. By moving over one hole size I gained 2-1/2" at the rear. Overall height at lowest point of seat is now at 35" and it feels much better. Changing the links alowed me to lube the lower bearings.

Nice work on the link. Any pics of the catectomy?

Didn't get any pics of the process, hardest part was removing the core. Having to drill multiple holes to compress it and slide it out.

In the mean time, I've preloaded front fork springs by adding 3/8" thick nuts and replaced the oil with 15W.

Ordered an 98 CR250 rear shock because rear shock on the apollo is very hard and beats you up on long rough trails. Found another thread where a CR250 shock was used. http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=210237

(I choose the 97-00 rear shock because it was a little shorter then 01-04)
New top mount will need to be fabricated either way, will post pictures of the process.

Hopefully someone can chime in on front forks replacements that fit.

what part of the pipe did you end up finding the cat in?

It was within the header bulge under the chrome cover.

Thanks for the info. I am trying to do research on these I just bought one from www.powerdirtbikes.com

hey did you ever get the rear shock mounted in? what modifications did you have to make?

I've been slacking in the bike department. I need to pickup 7w oil for the shock and recharge with nitrogen. Hopefully this weekend it will be on the bike.

Been busy working on my trailer before the hunting season, 16ft with electric brakes. Steel construction, will be painted Silver Hammered Rustoleum this weekend. Now I can carry the UTV/ATV and dirtbike together. :clap:

Pics of the trailer

slayder...looking good

when you say, Silver Hammered Rustoleum, does this mean you are going to rattle can (spray paint can) the whole thing?

Very Nice Trailer!

From my research people used Xylene thinner and sprayed the paint that comes in quarts. That's what I plan on doing, not sure how it will turn out.

and fyi I saw on another forum that someone replaced the front forks with kx 85 forks and they bolted right up... I have not tried this but that is the one thing I have found that someone has tried.

Great news, thank you!

im sure you will give it a good test shot first.

just wondering about the durability of that air craft carrier deck with just plain paint. might a coating of truck bed liner be in order (or just overkill). either way, looks muy professional .

It's primed with reinforced inorganic zinc primer, used for cathodic protection in industrial applications.

I'm still considering truck bed liner for anti-slip purposes, will decide once painted.

excellent, don't do what i did one time and painted too cold. had a orange peel-a-palooza. (live and learn:doh:)

The hammered paint will look awesome. I use it wherever I can. Seems to hold up well too.

Slayder, did you fabricate that trailer? I like the bike mount across the tongue.

Yes, with the help of my old man.

Initially it was supposed to be a single axle 14ft x 6ft trailer but then turned into a car hauler. Behind the rear axle I've added support to carry the car ramps. Still need to add two stabilizer jacks in the rear.

Finished the bike today so here we go:

1. Installed rear shock from 98 Honda CR250
2. Modified the airbox and fitted a Pod filter
3. Ignore the mess.

I also disassembled the rear shock, cleaned it and replaced the oil with 5W then had it nitrogen filled to 170psi.

Multiple obstacles during the rear shock install, I'll let the pictures due the talking but will mention a few.

a. Shock spring seat is hitting the suspension link which you can see in the pictures below. I removed some material of the link and it's only hitting with the swing arm fully extended.

b. Sitting height after the sag adjustment is 38" with stock links, where as previously with my shortened links it was 35". Since there is alot more travel now, when sitting on the bike I'm almost flat footed. I'm 6'2" tall.

c. Due to the bike sitting taller I had to extend the kick stand by 2-1/2". (See Pictures)

d. Again do to the height of the bike the chain roller was hitting the swing arm and the roller mount required modification. (See Pictures)

Had to grind down the bottom nut in order to fit the new shock.

For the chain roller mount, I just cut a V grove and bent it down to clear the swing arm when fully extended. Of course welded it.

Teaser pic of the trailer. It's almost finished and paint looks awesome. :tup:

Also decided to add a hitch in the back of the trailer as you can see in the pic above. I have a small 8 foot popup camper and will use it as double tow. Idaho allows 65ft total.

Now the airbox modifications. Cost of the coolant hose $10.99 and the hose adapters $3.99 at local auto shop(O'reilly). Filter pod was $5.99 from ebay.

Don't forget to spray oil onto your Pod Filter, I used some K&N filter oil.

Used some 2" foam that I cut out to fill the large hole left in front of the airbox. I trimmed the airbox cover for easy installation. Also the 2" thick foam fits perfect into the slots on the bottom of the airbox which holds it firm in place.

As previously mention the fuel tank mount broke so I decided to address that issue while I was there, installed two rubber spacers under the fuel tank mounts and sticky foam tape on sides where the tank was touching the frame.

That's all folks, rear shock upgrade was definitely worth it but as you can see the process had some issues. I love how the rear shock feels, it's plush and actually absorbs. If you need any additional info please let me know.

No questions for you (yet), more of a suggestion on that filter oil ;)

I use Maxima FFT (Foam Filter Treatment), it gets really sticky and when it starts to 'dry' it creates a "web like structure" that helps catch every last spec of dust/dirt trying to enter your intake/carb

https://www.amazon.com/Maxima-60901-.../dp/B00230K0BY

It's my favorite filter oil for many many years now... it has always PASSED the "White Glove Test" when checking for dust/dirt past the air filter... nothing but clean air makes it past my Maxima FFT treated filters