My 2020 SSR XF250 street kolten
 

I don’t have much time for a write up but here is a link to my bike on YouTube for now enjoy if you have any questions let me know
https://youtu.be/Br_QTkdYZCk

Nice! :tup:

For Current carb adjustments and exhaust I put some info in the comments section of the video. Hope this will help. Oh also this set is for smooth roll on throttle for best response and when in the power band snap throttle works well. Went back to the 16t front sprocket.

Will be posting a ride video soon it’s about 20mins long and I’ll try to shorten it for those who don’t like long videos cheers

Got gas vid 1
https://youtu.be/evgMwXOjZqY

Green means go vid 2
https://youtu.be/dEjruUs1PaU

After the long stretch vid 3
https://youtu.be/U7NNTK0Q0kI

Bridge passing short
https://youtu.be/rXlnScjN0q4

Here you go vids are uploaded

Here is another video but with a Ransoto exhaust
https://youtu.be/zfhYRcDkbyw

Hey Kolten--

I commented on your video yesterday, asking about the tach. Thanks for the response-- I didn't mean to be negative on the reliability of the bike overall.

I'm bringing the discussion here to respond to your response to me on YT. I seriously am considering this bike and I'm no beginner-- I just really like small displacement bikes of this type.

I own a Suzuki TU250 and really love it. The XF250 has the same engine, and I get the impression that it's not even a clone-- I believe the Chinese company that makes it also produced it for Suzuki as an outside contractor.

In addition, it has many other features similar to the TU250 such as same gearing and tire diameter. Since I happen to really like all these features on my TU250, I'm pretty sure this bike would be something I'd like.

Basically, it appears to be dual sport/fat tire version of the TU250. Sort of like a cross between the TU250 and a TW200.

As I said in my YT comment, the fact that the XF250 has an analog gauge cluster (with tach!) is kind of unusual these days and something I like.

I actually have the Trail Tech on my TU250 (which has no stock tach) and would prefer to not have to use that on the XF as you did. I wonder how fixable it is. Did you try to take it apart or anything?

If you plan to put many miles on the bike, you would want the trail tech or something similar. For weekend use they are probably ok. I have a Grom style cluster on mine and it's great. I like analog gauges too, but these analog gauges are junk in my opinion. Speedo and Odometer readings were questionable. The tach needle bounced every which way. No trip meter, and the incandescent mini bulbs regularly blow. I've owned two of these bikes, with similar issues.

Thanks for the info. Would you happen to have a pic of the Grom cluster you're using? I'd be interested to see what it looks like on the bike.

hey guys, I also have a xf250 and I like it but I feel like it's missing some power. I want to turn it into a stunt dual sport, what should I change to get some more power and torque? ps I haven't done any modifications yet.
text me on insta - mexicano.caliente

That's weird. I have the same stock cluster on Q and the tach and speedo always stay very steady. Maybe I got lucky? Also never blown any lights out. Of course, I don't put the miles on you guys do anymore.
Good to see some more XF250 content pop up....but I'm partial. ;-)

I know this is long delayed, but is this a brand new bike? The break in period is important. I was also quite underwhelmed with the power on this bike initially, but it did wake up a bit around the 2-3k mile mark.

If broken in, I would start with exhaust and jetting.

yes

Cool to see this. The SSR XF250 was actually what led me here, when looking for what was available around me for my first motorcycle I noticed a few dealers seemed to have hundreds of these, looked them up, thought "oh no that's a bike from China...", and within 4hrs I had found this forum and fully committed on buying my TT250.



How do these SSR's stack up to the Hawk and/or TT? Just curious.

I’m not sure my previous post went through so I’ll try to repost from my computer

wooo didn’t expect this post to get any more attention.
Hmm well I’m at or just past 5000 miles, with the same upgrades and modifications and it is still running strong. I have done some tinkering and adjusting ie: valves because I try to push this to higher rpm’s, sprocket changes (I have 13t-16t front sprockets)I honestly think the 14t front sprocket is the sweet spot for power to gearing ratio which is still capable of 80+ mph with 220lbs rider, jetting I still kinda play with because I do not have a genuine Keihin carburetor and FYI I’m about to order a couple of 1979 Honda cm400t intake manifolds or intake pipes which also share the same bolt spacing and with a 34mm inner diameter and 43mm spigot to fit a larger carburetor than stock.
The trail tech is great I have no complaints other than what dst is for lol I could read the manual but it’s not why I got it . I accidentally put too much oil in and had to change clutch cover gasket my mistake.
Ported the cylinder head: intake to somewhat match the carb diameter 33mm (with stock intake ported), and the exhaust port cleaned and polished a little.
Exhaust header had excessive weld on the inside so I had to grind it to match the exhaust port.
I got tired of the tail fender and got an Amazon special rear taillight for about 30 or 40 bucks.
I plan to make an updated video soon and please forgive me for not responding and jumping on the forum often I get soo busy sometimes it’s like tunnel vision everything around is a blur.
Cheers

Ok so you’ll see in the pics the intakes are just very slightly different, if you remove the o ring from the oem intake and lay it on the cm400t flat to flat you’ll see that one hole just barely matches up and the other side will need to be filed(or you can file both bolt holes but you’ll have to port match the intake to cylinder head my preferred route). Once you do this you’ll be able to fit a Keihin 33mm carburetor with ease, the inner diameter of intake mani. is the same give or take .5mm. You’ll then be able to use a flanged bolt which is better than the Philips head screw such a pain. I had the longer flange side bolted to the lower hole so the carb will sit a tiny bit lower, also the cm400t intake will push the carb to the rear by about 6-8mm. Hope this helps, I’ll try to get a video up soon.