How much oil?
 

I got a lifan 200 motor and how much oil goes in it? When i pull out the dip stick should it only read about 1 inch up the stick? Because thats how it came with that amount of oil.

Is it the '07 counterbalanced engine? If so then it's 1.1 liters , just put 1 quart in and then add a little bit at a time till you get it right. Better to be a little under than over, overfilling can cause oil to seep past the rings which is baaad for a new engine.
<BTW> I've been using Rotella-T 15-40 in mine with good results. Watch using regular automotive oil as it can cause clutch problems.

Later

reg motor oil
 

what kind of probs do u get using auto oil instead of rotella?

I use Castrol 15w-30 in my motorcycles. Should not be a problem.

RACER,
I don't recommend automotive oil in any bike, period... Try a dealer or your local Wal-mart for some 4-stroke oil for motorcycles there are several brands available and are made for our clutches...

Just watch out for car oil that says something to the effect of "for better fuel enonomy", it has moly in it and can lead to the clutch slipping. Rotella is really good oil for a bike, the Rotella synthetic is supposed to be about the best you can use for a motorcycle for some of the tests I've read. That's even compared to motorcycle specific oils like Golden Spectro and Redline.

If I can find the bookmarks I have I'll link to the various websites. There's some good reading on the subject if you're really interested in the chemistry and physics behind motorcycle oil. Rotella synthetic beat evey other oil tested hands down due to it's friction modifier package and the base oils it's built on... for bikes that share the oil between the engine, cllutch and tranny, that is.

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

Wal-mart carries castrol 4-stroke oil and Rotella T. I have been using the rotella and I buy it in the gallon size which is a little more than 3 oil changes.

Autozone of most parts stores with have the valvoline 4-stroke oil. Usually less than $3/qt. An oil change should cost you about $3.

Allen

If you are going to use synthetic oil, do not use it until after your break-in period. Air cooled engines need to wear in and synthetic oil will not allow proper break-in of the engine.
...FWIW.

Try Amsoil
 

You can get Amsoil synthetic on my website - I run it in everything from my weedeater to my F-350 Powerstroke diesel - Even my LF250 -
www.lubedealer.com/mikessynoil

Only use engine lubricants or oils that are JASO MA rated.

Never use automotive oils or energy conserving oil as they are not designed for wet clutch use and contain solids and by products that can cause premature clutch damage.

I agree the best lubricants to use are synthetics containing no mineral oil.
Amsoil and Redline are the best out there.

I've always used plain old Valvoline car oil in my motorcycles and have never had a problem with the clutch or anything else. My old CX500 has over 100,000 miles and has run car oil all it's life. Clutch is original and working just fine.

Q

I've done my oil and parts wear testing on the race tracks under the most extreme conditions.

The difference with lubricants like Amsoil and Redline is the testamonys.
The difference is the guys that have not had any proplems using their oils where guys like me have seen HUGE changes and greater gains.
I don't mean to sound rude but 100,000 miles on a water cooled bike means nothing to me. I've seen double that. . But I would bet I could tear down your engine and find dozens of parts worn close to their limits, sludge, carbon build up, oil leaks, clutch glazing etc etc.

The things i'm talking about are things like EGT's/CHT temp drops as much as 30 degrees just by switching oils.
whoop-de-do you may say but for me that means my racers can lean out the mixture and gain a few extra FREE hp. Not to mention the prolonged performance over time.
Or engines with 100,000 miles, zero carbon, no compression drop and still 100% within specs. Or a race engine with a complete season running and shows no signs of wear or that it was ever even run.

Companies like Vavoline recommend you don't use their automotive oils in motorcycles for a reason. I simply explained to you why they don't recommend them.

Amsoil 10w40 Synthetic Motorcycle oil - Made for wet clutch
 

got to http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/def...spx?zo=1433133 and click on motoroils in the upper right the select MCF from the drop down list -

SAE 10W-40 Synthetic Motorcycle Oil (MCF)
AMSOIL Synthetic Motorcycle Oils have been reformulated with new high performance additive technology that provides even greater multi-functional benefits for the special requirements of motorcycle applications. These independent and exclusive new AMSOIL formulations provide second-to-none viscosity protection for hot-running American and foreign motorcycle engines, transmissions and primary chaincases. Performance specifications include:API SG, SL/CF; JASO MA/MA-2; API GL-1

PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL Synthetic 10W-40 Motorcycle Oil (MCF) is a premium oil designed for those who demand the absolute best lubrication for their motorcycles. AMSOIL MCF is the result of extensive research, and it is specially formulated to excel in all areas unique to motorcycles, including high engine RPM, wet clutch lubrication, extreme pressure regions of gears and rust common to short drives and storage.