um dtf200 parts
 

i got this um dtf200 on trade for a log splitter. it is like new, friend of mine bought new and barely rode it. he has 12 or 13 bikes.

http://tpar1220.smugmug.com/Concours...4_194938-L.jpg

http://tpar1220.smugmug.com/Concours...4_194119-L.jpg

it's a pretty cool lil bike but rear brake will not build pressure. i completely disassembled master cylinder and cleaned the whole system but still won't build pressure. i think the rubber diaphram thing is shot.

where can i find a rebuild kit? i have looked till i am blue in face and can't find anything.

thanks for any help.

Nice looking bike. Search on eBay, and you'll find a complete caliper and master cylinder assembly, rather than a rebuild kit. Keep you search terms generic, like "dirt bike caliper".

Its almost identical to my Skyteam GT200 except yours is in much better condition. Your brakes are probably not faulty. Theres a knack to bleeding the rear brakes. Normal pumping and bleeding often doesn't work. I can't remember what the trick was, but the problem is common to many bikes so I'm sure you'll google an answer.

Edit, Just googled it myself and found the answer. (Now I remember this is how i did mine about a year ago). You have to loosen the caliper nipple slightly and force the brake fluid into the caliper through the nipple. In other words, its the opposite of how you normally do it. Put a bit of plumbers tape around the thread of the nipple so that it doesnt leak around the thread too much. I cant remember how I forced the fluid into the nipple. I think I had a reasonably long piece of plastic tube and gently sucked the fluid out of the bottle then 'blew' it into the nipple.

i have never heard of skyteam, which doesn't mean anything as i never heard of united motors either. but they do look very similar... nearly identical.

i removed entire rear brake assembly and took to a buddies shop as we were gonna sync carbs on my concours anyway. we completely tore it apart and cleaned and put back together and tried bleeding standard way and reverse bled from caliper side forcing fluid up to master cylinder. we got all air out of system but still no pressure. it wont even build enough pressure to trip brake light!

i am guessing the rubber diaphram is bypassing fluid.

the thing seems to run pretty well but carb is kinda finnicky. i wanna ride this thing off road and see how it does. i have a ktm300 that i have plated that i use on dual sport rides.. naturally it is very good on off rd sections but not so good on the rd sections. i gotta believe this thing would be complete opposite but if i could live with it off rd maybe i could use it for these rides.

i dunno, these dual sport rides are pretty rough, if parts are that hard to come by it may not be such a good idea. the dtf200 is a dirt bike but has the certificate of origin and already has all lights n horn so i assume it would be a breeze to get registered. my ktm is a dirt bike as well and i had no issues getting it registered even though i bought used with no paperwork.

i did an ebay search and you are correct! lots of complete units! :tup:

problem is... nothing for the um dtf200. do you know what will interchange with this thing. several work from 70cc up to 200cc. but i seen nothing for the dtf200 specifically. i am guessing one of em will work with several models... but which one?:hmm:

Just compare the parts. Since the caliper you have was used on dozens of parts, you'll certainly find an exact match. The brand name on the bike is unimportant.

yeah, i kinda figured they would have used a mass produced part and not specific to that model. but was kinda hoping someone has been down this road before and knew which one works.

problem is... sometimes the pics are not of actual part for sale. i think my caliper is good.. the hydraulic actuator is what i need. but if these come complete i just need to find the one that bolts to frame. don't believe i can eyeball the spacing between the 2 bolts from a pic.

i will look some more and ask seller couple questions. surely... one of them will work.

thanks for input.

If you do buy a brake setup off ebay, plan on needing to bleed it anyways...LOL Every hydraulic part i have gotten had drained out in the package during shipping...its quite a task to bleed a hydro clutch slave when theres no bleeder on it...LOL

Bleeding...
 

To bleed the system... you should remove the master cylinder as you can not get a full stroke when it is on the bike... and you should either leave the calipher on the rotor.. or remove it and put something between the pads to push them all the way back into the calipher to limit the amount of fluid required to push the pads... once this is done ( pads pushed all the way into the calipher.. something inbetween the pads to hold them back) then push the rod to create fluid movement..... this should create resisitant and once you have this... open the bleeder.. and you will see air or fluid come out... a lot of times I put a hose on it to let it go into a container ( clean one ) and re-use the fluid .... like you do on a car... this way you can see the air coming out and not go thru a lot of fluid... this is the best & easiest way to do it... you have to get a full stroke... not the small 1/2 stroke when it is on the bike.. once you do this... you will see how good it works..... on the bike is a waste of time...

how to bleed brakes
 

here is a good site.... on you tube.. or just google it and it will come up... Honda tech talk... how to bleed your brakes... nice way to create a loop to see bubbles... but as I say it may be better to remove the master if you can not get a full long stroke... keep in mind watch your fluid level..

Check this one to see if it is the same
http://m.ebay.com/itm/380722590433?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1

this is the suspect..

http://tpar1220.smugmug.com/Concours...2_235315-L.jpg

with guard in place..

http://tpar1220.smugmug.com/Concours...2_235459-L.jpg

with guard rotated back out of way...

http://tpar1220.smugmug.com/Concours...2_235703-L.jpg

and we did bleed it off bike at work bench. had actuator in vice so could get full stroke and did have wooden ink/paint stir stick tween pads to hold em back.

no luck.. :grr:

Quality parts had some logo/ letters stamped . For example: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=13569384901
What's the brake pad # & letters stamped on caliper?
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Maybe something from here http://www.kailingcn.com/english/product-show_7_1.html will works

That first link from Human Being is a pretty good deal, but you could also substitute just about any used Honda dirt bike master cylinder, from either an XL or CR. The caliper is likely in good shape.

i believe the caliper is good to go, heck... even original pads are like new!

i had the rear brake system off over weekend and at a buddies bike shop as i was having carbs synced on different bike. we didn't have any luck getting that master to build pressure so we gave up.

he had a cr125 on lift for service so i compared. it looked the same but... mounting bolts were spaced bout 1/4" further apart so no way it would mount up. :hmm: