Apollo DB36 Deluxe Valve adjustment...question
 

I just did my friends 2018 bashan storm valve adjustment so I figured since I have to do it soon anyway why not adjust the valves on my apollo deluxe. Its very different might I add. for the bashan I just took the top off by the 4 bolts then the valves were exposed for adjustments. On the apollo its not quite like that and I need some help LOL Ill post some pictures. The top came off after undoing about 8 bolts between the top and side but now its just open, not sure how to adjust from here.

You need to put back on what you took off, and properly retorque it! You're one nut and a cam chain away from removing the entire head. Do you see those hex shaped plugs on what you removed? Those are the valve adjustment caps for an ohc motor. You basically half disassembled the head. You'll also need to clean off both of the surfaces gently with a razor blade, then reapply Honda/yamabond, so that it doesn't leak oil.

Oooopss! What franque said.

Thanks! oops! alright im on it! thanks for the quick response. It was very hard to even see the valves when I tried to look through those two small holes, I could barely get my feeler gauge in there! haha But alright im gonna go ahead and put all this stuff back on.

Yeah, it can be a pain on the OHV engine. I'm about to fined out when I do the valves on my new bike. I've done it many times in the past on an old Honda 200x so time to get back to doing it on the new one.

Just ran out and bought red high temp gasket sealer and marker for up to 800degrees. Gonna start cleaning it then putting things back together. That was noob mistake on me haha but with this engine I am a Noob. Thanks for the quick save, I had a feeling something was off. Jerry let me know how you make out with your adjustment and how much of a pain it was if any at all.

I was looking at it over the weekend. The exhaust will be a piece of cake but the intake looks like i'll have to remove the tank to get to it.

Nope, you bought the wrong thing. It's a grey semi drying silicone, normally called Yamabond or Hondabond. Regular silicone isn't used because it isn't as effective for these close tolerances. Do you have the torque specs and order of tightening the bolts? This is precision stuff.

Here are Honda specs.

Just ordered hondabond 4 on Amazon. Its for close tolerances. Its genuine honda oem hondabond 4 liquid gasket 08717-1194. Used in place of gaskets for various engine applications. That's the exact product I just ordered. Who would have though this one mistake would make all of this trouble haha live and learn

That's what this forum is all about. Helping other instead of cutting someone down because they aren't a certified mechanics. We all have to learn somewhere. Great bunch here.

Hey we've all done something like that. If you say you haven't, you're lying. What you did is the best way to learn. You will learn more than you realize at the time. You've already learned about gasket stuff, torque specs, and how your engine works. Priceless!

Hi Buffalo....just wanted to clarify on the Hondabond for future reference...for what you are using it for, Hondabond HT is the better/correct choice. Hondabond #4 is not intended for gasketless applications.

I work at a Honda dealer...the following information is from a 2012 Technical Service Bulletin publication:

Hondabond 4 Semi-Drying Sealant P/N 08717-1194 - Liquid gasket sealant used to seal critical areas as specified in service manuals. Do not use it for gasketless applications.

Hondabond HT Silicone Gasket P/N 08718-0004 - Adhesive sealer for metal-to-metal, metal-to-plastic, or plastic-to-plastic bonding. Good for high temperature applications. (This replaced P/N 08718-0001).

Alternatively,....Yamabond #4 would be correct to use....Yamabond #5 is the equivalent to Hondabond #4.

Another equivalent product/option you could use is Threebond 1184.

(years ago, when I worked at a Yamaha dealer,...we were told Threebond is the maker/supplier of Yamabond and Hondabond)

Errrrr to adjust the valves you remove the "caps" (they are the same part as drain cap both CB or CG)
You pulled off the totally wrong part etc etc.
Here's a link if this helps with a basic tool set for such a job...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303381509504


If I recall the valve train cap also has HEAD NUTS - you will want to re-torque etc and hopefully no other issues do to head being released.

While it's apart you could add some roller rocker in there, be a little quieter n smoother action etc

Yeah I know I messed up haha Im not losing any sleep over it, I have learned from it more than a few things. I already have all the tools I need, Im just waiting for the Hondabond HT to get here. Jerryhawk250 sent me some honda ohc specs as well which I was thankful for. I have already cleaned off both faces of the cover properly. Just waiting to be sealed and closed back up! I am hoping no leaks happen but I am taking my time so i dont think any leaking will happen. Wont know for sure until I start the bike up for the first time when the weather breaks in about 3 months. Im following all the torque specs sealing the gasket properly and hoping for the best. When I took the cover off, nothing else came out or moved, just the cover.