Templar X 250 Nibbi PE 30mm Install
 

It’s me yet again… It took me about an hour of twisting and turning, but I finally was able to remove the old/stock carb. However, I cannot figure out how to get the new Nibbi carb installed. I removed the idle screw/wheel, installed the throttle cable, but cannot figure out how to get the choke cable tightened. It took a long time, but finally got the cable inserted and threads started, but I cannot fit any sort of tool in there to get it tightened. I tried a couple of open ended 14mm and some needle nose pillars, but to no avail.

Do I need to pull the tank or other surrounding parts to create enough room to and maybe get enough slack in order to install the choke prior to putting the carb in place? I haven’t removed anything this far, but I can’t image others had this much trouble especially it trying different jetting several time to find the best or right size. After all this, I would not look forward to pulling it back out again to rejet.

Any tips?

Is there any way to shim the choke cable up at the bar or down at the carb? Like maybe stick a nut, lead fishing weight, etc on the cable wire to take up slack? Obviously not the ideal solution but might be workable until you learn the proper way.

Here is a link to Nibbi instruction manuals, in case you do not have one.

https://nibbiracing.com/pages/manual

Personally I like to just have the choke lever on the carb itself, to cut down on complication.

Thanks for the input. I think I am going to remove the exhaust pipe and maybe the gas tank to see if that makes enough room to tighten the nut. I’m sure I’ll figure it out with enough patience.

Thanks again!!!

Well, it took me about 2 hours, but I finally got it install. Unfortunately, it’s didn’t help and actually can’t even get it started now. Got it started briefly by putting some starter fluid down the spark plug hole, it fired right up for a second. Not really sure what else could be going on. Somewhat at a loss with this thing.

It wouldn’t even really be that much of an improvement.
First thing I did with mine was install a real Mikuni 30mm.

1st-the stock carb is 28mm and that is somewhat large-I believe it could run reasonably well with a 26mm. According to the Mikuni flow charts 26mm looks to be a sweet spot.

2nd-The stock carb is no slouch-when jetted correctly it performs very well.
Eventually I went back to the stock carb and threw some larger jets in-it performed better that way than with a 30mm Mikuni

I had a lot of trouble starting my bike after re-jetting the carb. It would catch and shut off over and over until the battery was dead. I forgot to open the fuel petcock! :doh:

I’ve done that many times lol

That’s a bummer man. I don’t guess it takes a while for the bowl to fill up? Maybe it will fire up tomorrow and run like sewing machine. I hope so. Good luck.

Now that the old one is out, I may try to get it apart to rejet. On the road for the next couple of weeks though, so this is going to sit in the shop, as is, until I get back...

Not the petcock, but Hap might be onto something with the float... I left the gas on at the petcock and should have some time tomorrow to test his theory. Finger-crossed!!!

I did

We have a winner!

Too many people jump on that 30mm smooth bore bandwagon because other people sell it. This is not a path a novice should walk down. Period.

The Templar X Comes with a PE28 carb from what I understand, and this is a GREAT carburetor right off the bat and way more than enough for the ZS172 engine, especially in near stock form. A PE30 is pretty much wasted until you start putting in a cam so you can take advantage of the airflow it can support.

If it were me, I would go back to the stock carb.

Otherwise, you are in for a world of fun and adventure trying to get that 30 to run correctly. Especially if you don't know how that enrichment circuit (the "choke") is operating. It adds fuel, hence the name "enrichment" for cold starts. If it isn't installed right and letting fuel get past, it will never run right.

What size pilot jet is in it? It should need pretty much the same size as the stock carb.

Yeah. Megadon’s right on the carb deal. And I just remembered. When ever I re-jetted the factory carb on my bike. It fired up right quick after I got it on and turned on the fuel. I would be willing to bet a decent wager on the choke being the culprit. Especially with having some problems with it hooking up right. But lastly, I have read and talked with other guys that have installed the exact carb on their stock Templar and it performed perfectly. Albeit no better than the properly jetted factory carb. Well crap. I guess I wrote a whole page and didn’t help a dam thing.

Well actually, you took the hit in order to increase the knowledge base for others. Have an extra cookie as reward/compensation.

Running, but idle is 6-7K RPM
 

I had a few minutes this afternoon so I pulled the carb out again, double checked the 120/40 jets and general condition/operation of the carb (mostly the choke setup). Everything looked normal to me so I put it back in and this time it fired right up. Didn’t need the choke either. Problem is the idle is crazy high at 6-7K RPM. Tried tuning it by tightening both the air and idle screws all the way in and then setting them to 1.5 turns and 2 full turns respectively. No change with high idle when I started it again. I quickly made another half turn on the air screw bringing it to 2 full turns which “smoothed” it out and eliminated the popping sounds. I then tried adjusting the idle screw, but I couldn’t get any change after 3 full turns taking it to 5 total. Was afraid to go anymore as it was getting pretty loose.

What I’m I doing wrong with this thing? So far I have owned this bike for over a month and it still only has 4 miles on it.

Is there any slack in your throttle cable? Is it sticking open?