Newb Chain Question
 

I went through the topic about 520 convertion and as much as I would like to do that I dont have the extra money right now, being a student and all. My chain hasnt broken but recently I have noticed it has stretched out even more and have tried to overcome it by adjusting the tension of the chain. My question is what is a good 428 Chain that can perform better than the stock chain, like a HD 428? Any input?

Yes I'm sure there will be lots of input. :D

For myself, I didn't want to do the whole conversion either, and like you my chain stretched a lot. I, like you used the adjusters (not to keep the chain tight but to keep the proper slack that is needed, only reduce the amount that's stretched. Check the manual.) to pick up the amount that stretched during riding.

I got a 428/ D.I.D. / NON- O-ring, cheap (about $40)from my local bike shop, and they cut it to size for free. It stretched too but not near like the stock chain, I only adjusted it twice I think. You'd have to lube the chain more than the O-ring type. But it is cheaper.
Hope this helps, Jaime. I type slow.

My bike is fairly new so I haven't noticed any chain stretching (yet). I put a new, smaller sprocket on the back, and I decided to let the stock 428 chain on. If I use up all the adjustment to keep the chain tight, I imagine I could take a link out of the chain. The chain will probably wear out before that is necessary. Then I can decide if I want to upgrade to a better 428 chain or switch to a bigger/better (and also more expensive) chain - and new sprockets.

check the parts sticky, I put a moose racing chain on my bike back in june. so far I have adjusted it once 8) almost no streching. you should be able to get it from your local bike shop for around 32 dollars.

My local honda shop sold me a heavy duty, ball peened, non O-ring, prestretched 428 chain with 132 links for $13. I bought a chain cutter for $30 and removed the extra 4 links myself. Now I'm nervous seeing all these chains you guys are buying for $40! I wonder if the difference is stainless vs. nonstainless? If so I'll upgrade before Winter...I live in rainy Seattle and plan to ride year 'round:)

On a preliminary test ride the bike moves SO much smoother with the new chain, when riding or just rolling the bike. On the bench, the stocker had about a full inch of slop in it!

whatever you do, do not over tighten it! doing so will cause your chain to wear your sprockets to chip ect ect.

Yep, keep proper chain slack. Use your new chain till it rusts. It should be fine for months, $17 is a little low, but use it up. See how much it stretches, you might have got a great deal. The last chain I bought was $107+tax 8O. Non O ring chains need more lube, concentrate on lubing the rollers, lube often, after a ride while the chain is still warm is best. Before you ride the next day you could wipe off any extra oil. You don't want it all over your back tire in a turn. :D

New Chain
 

Thanks for the inputs guys. I went ahead and bought me an RK HD428 Chain for about 36 dollars. I read alot of reviews for it and it seems to be a great chain. I want to take care of it, I have read alot of people soaking it in Gasoline or Diesel fuel to clean while scrubbing it with a plastic brush, what about lubing the chain? What are some good lubes out there, I looked at some chain wax. Any good tips?

If the chain has little rubber o-rings in it do not scrub or soak with gas or diesel. the orings keep the factory lube in it.

cleaning, well I wipe off with a rag and soak more parafin based chainwax onto it.

everyone has their different way of caring for their chain.

I usually do not soak or clean my chain with any detergents or degreasers because I honestly do not think I will be able to get grease back to where it needs it if I clean all the grease out of it. So I always add and never subtract 8)

I've used 3 chains in 15000Km and am only now doing a 520 conversion. My chains stretched quite a bit and would adjust them when required. If you don't, you may find that the chain will start hitting the frame at the bottom of the front sprocket. I had stripped down my bike when I did a 30mm Walbro carb mod and found the two grooves in the frame. I welded them up again and re sprayed the frame at the same time because the Chinese paint was very thin without any under coat/primer.

I'm switching to a 13 front and a 33 rear 520 chain and will be replacing the rubber chain runner on the swing arm as well as a new chain guard. This is a job for the weekend as I will need to remove the swing arm to get the rubber chain runner on and will once again grease the rear shock linkage.

I won't be riding the bike much after that as my Shineray will now be my Sons bike.

Hey Big Dave, Whatever you do, DONT get a "light weight" 33 rear like I did, The little 200 turned the sprocket spokes into chicklets pieces scatered somewhere along the road! Left me & my daughter to walk the 3 plus miles home. Other than that, you'll love the 13/33 combo for the road. I think it puts the torqe curve in the best place to cruise 55-60 mph, yet has the revs in reserve to push near 70 on a perfect day and I weigh in at 195 lbs.
To you new guys that may not have seen the post on chain ajusting, Get a tie down strap and hook on to your swing arm in fron of your sprocket/lower chain guard and your seat rack, throw your weight on the bike hard and sinch the strap tight, compressing your rear shock as far as you can get it. This puts your swing arm nearly in line with your front sprocket. THIS is when you adjust your chain for about a inch of play. Now when you loosen your strap, you will see that "alot of chain slop" is actualy correct for the highly pitched swing arm. Ill be posting a mod fixing this soon after I get the 11" Koni shock I bought in my hands.