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Old 05-05-2012, 04:07 PM   #14
SpudRider   SpudRider is offline
 
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Idaho
Posts: 25,054
Quote:
Originally Posted by Weldangrind
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliskin
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpudRider
The important thing to remember is always cut off an even number of links. :wink:
Spud I didn't know that, good tip. Thank you for providing links to chain brakers.
With all respect to my good friend Spud, that comment can be misinterpreted. Another way to look at chains is a series of male and female links. Once you've cut off what you don't need, you must have two female links left to join with a master link. Make sense? I believe that's what Spud means by an even number of links; your new chain will have a female link at each end, and it must look like that when you're done cutting.

As Spud also says, removing links with a mini grinding tool (like a Dremel) or with an angle grinder is easy. I don't even use a chain breaker.
You've given a much better, more detailed explanation, Weld. However, it's much easier for me to remember, and explain to others, to remove an even number of links! I select the pin I wish to grind by counting an even number of links/pins, then I visualize to confirm I will be left with two male (narrower) links on each end of the chain.

Another very important point to consider is this; don't cut the chain too short! 8O If you cut the chain too long, you can always cut it again. If you cut the chain too short, you have ruined the entire chain, unless you can use it on another motorcycle.

When changing sprockets on a bike, the stock chain length will frequently change. Therefore, you can't be sure how many chain links you need to add, or remove. Once again, keep an even number of chain links, or you won't be able to install the female (wider) master link.

When I need to determine a new chain length, I loosen the rear wheel and push it as far forward as the chain adjusters will allow. Then I install the chain, and wrap it around both sprockets. I inspect to see where I would have two male (narrower) links line up on the rear sprocket, a tooth apart, and the place where I would install the master link. This space will be farther back than the most forward position of the wheel on the chain adjusters, otherwise you couldn't get the chain installed. After "measuring" twice to confirm I got the correct pin, I remove the chain and grind the stakes off the desired pin. Then I get my heavy-duty chain breaker, and push the pin out of the chain.

Incidentally, it requires a lot of torque to push the pin out of a new, quality, O-ring drive chain! 8O Some people don't bother to grind the stakes off the pin before they push/pound it out. However, I find the process is difficult enough even after I have ground the stakes off the pin! 8O You really have to torque on the chain breaker for quite a while to push the pin out of a new, quality, O-ring drive chain.

Spud
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Spud

"Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain

2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3)
2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200)
2005 Honda XR650L
2004 Honda CRF250X
1998 Kawasaki KDX220

Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894


 
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