Quote:
Originally Posted by Megadan
1.25 sounds right to my brain but I cannot confirm for sure. Metric is relatively easy. The metric thread pitch is the distance between the threads in mm. 1.25 = 1.25mm 1.75 = 1.75mm and so on. In theory you could actually measure the thread peaks with a pair of calipers and determine the pitch that way.
You do want the nut on the left side ideally. The reasoning is that all of the resistance being applied to the axle shaft is turning the axle "righty tighty" which can help keep the nut from coming too loose if it does happen to loosen slightly.
When you get a new nut (preferably a flanged stover nut but even a regular flanged nut will be fine) torque to 30-35ft-lbs and use some blue loctite.
"Advanced Upgrades" - ported head and camshaft. Aka more than just a bolt on exhaust and filter upgrades.
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You are correct, it's a M12 1.25, I bought a "locking nut" and a regular and for some reason the locking will only thread on about halfway and gets stuck. I threw the regular nut on the left side with a lockwasher and blue threadlocker, I'm going to order a flanged one. I could not find one locally. Should I avoid riding it all together? I was going to just cruise around the farm I live on and stay around 25mph or lower until the new nut gets here.
Oh okay, I've watched easily 10-15+ videos on the bike both before and after buying and no one has ever mentioned either of those upgrades lol. So you're saying I don't really need a performance carb until/if I do those?
I was planning on following this video:
Simply because it seemed easy enough and upgrades both the Carb and air filter nicely, for like $115 bucks. Would this carb be overkill with just sprockets, chain and exhaust upgraded?