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Thumper · 01-24-2023, 09:12 AM

TK found this post for me. I had posted it in my thread in video and pics but there are SO many!
2022 Templar X 250 build quality and assembly

This is written for doing the job while the carb it still on the bike (yes, you can!!):

The taper on the jet needle determines just how much fuel is allowed up into the venturi area from the float bowl as the slide is lifted (throttle twist). Some needles have a clip and maybe 5 positions to select from. But even if your needle doesn't have this adjustment, you can shim it with washers without changing the position of the clip. That lifts the needle too. I remember learning how to do this on Suzuki CV carbs. The concept is the same, but much easier with just one carb!

It's tight but doable without removing the exhaust on the Templar X. If you do remove the carb, while you are in there, you may also want to bump main jet by one step, and I've also bumped the pilot by one step (still need brief choke to start in cold weather, but not in Summer). It is much easier to remove/replace the carb if you remove the exhaust and rear shock. But here is the method for doing this while carb is still on the bike...

Here's how to shim the needle:
You can loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb, twist the carb top to the right, unscrew the slide cap, and pull the slide out over the head pipe.

Remove the cable from the slide by making slack so the clamped button on the end of the cable can come out via the slot on the side of the slide. You need to compress the large return spring to make slack in the cable. Careful not to lose control of the spring, and keep it clean.

Now that you have the slide out and disconnected from the carb, reach in with hemostat or long skinny pliers to pinch and remove the clip down in the bottom of the slide. Push the needle up/out of the slide. Slide a tiny washer (1mm thick or so-thickness determines shim height) onto the needle and reinstall the needle. You have now shimmed the needle.

Reinstall the needle clip to hold the needle in the slide. The needle clip/clamp that holds the needle down won't seem to fit all the way down, but that's OK... It will be held down by the large spring-no problem

Reinstall the cable (don't forget to make sure the large spring is between the slide cap and slide barrel. Now you see the large spring holding down the needle clip at the bottom of the slide, even though the clip didn't seem to fit. It's going nowhere, and the needle will stay planted!

Put the slide back into the carb. The slot on the side of the slide must align with the guide post in the inside of slide tower (only one way in!).
Screw the cap back on and straighten the carb back in place, tighten the clamps. Done.

01-24-2023, 09:12 AM	#5
Thumper Join Date: Feb 2021 Location: Kansas City Posts: 2,258	Needle Shim instructions TK found this post for me. I had posted it in my thread in video and pics but there are SO many! 2022 Templar X 250 build quality and assembly This is written for doing the job while the carb it still on the bike (yes, you can!!): The taper on the jet needle determines just how much fuel is allowed up into the venturi area from the float bowl as the slide is lifted (throttle twist). Some needles have a clip and maybe 5 positions to select from. But even if your needle doesn't have this adjustment, you can shim it with washers without changing the position of the clip. That lifts the needle too. I remember learning how to do this on Suzuki CV carbs. The concept is the same, but much easier with just one carb! It's tight but doable without removing the exhaust on the Templar X. If you do remove the carb, while you are in there, you may also want to bump main jet by one step, and I've also bumped the pilot by one step (still need brief choke to start in cold weather, but not in Summer). It is much easier to remove/replace the carb if you remove the exhaust and rear shock. But here is the method for doing this while carb is still on the bike... Here's how to shim the needle: You can loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb, twist the carb top to the right, unscrew the slide cap, and pull the slide out over the head pipe. Remove the cable from the slide by making slack so the clamped button on the end of the cable can come out via the slot on the side of the slide. You need to compress the large return spring to make slack in the cable. Careful not to lose control of the spring, and keep it clean. Now that you have the slide out and disconnected from the carb, reach in with hemostat or long skinny pliers to pinch and remove the clip down in the bottom of the slide. Push the needle up/out of the slide. Slide a tiny washer (1mm thick or so-thickness determines shim height) onto the needle and reinstall the needle. You have now shimmed the needle. Reinstall the needle clip to hold the needle in the slide. The needle clip/clamp that holds the needle down won't seem to fit all the way down, but that's OK... It will be held down by the large spring-no problem Reinstall the cable (don't forget to make sure the large spring is between the slide cap and slide barrel. Now you see the large spring holding down the needle clip at the bottom of the slide, even though the clip didn't seem to fit. It's going nowhere, and the needle will stay planted! Put the slide back into the carb. The slot on the side of the slide must align with the guide post in the inside of slide tower (only one way in!). Screw the cap back on and straighten the carb back in place, tighten the clamps. Done. Last edited by Thumper; 04-26-2024 at 01:46 PM.
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