After we got my sons Templar X all set, It started blowing a fuse when you push the rear brake lever, but also the front brake lever
I disconnected them both and the starter wouldn't turn of course, but I jumped it at the starter relay and it popped to life as usual (with a new 10A fuse).
User error! I discovered that I had zip tied the rear brake wire on the right side of the oil breather tube too close to the exhaust. It had melted and was shorting out on the exhaust pipe
Apparently, these wires are joined via the path to the taillight (and start button defeat safety circuit), so pulling the front brake lever also grounded out the 12V black wire, blowing the fuse.
I pulled them apart and insulated them, then zip tied it to the other side farther away from the exhaust... fixed.
But this is why I asked about the starter lockout circuit. Obviously, it was impossible to start using the starter button with this transient issue (did not always happen...the worst kind of fail!). After blowing through a few fuses, I disconnected the two brake light switches (the 2 wire connectors near the switches). It stopped blowing fuses but I had to start it by jumping the wires at the starter relay. It started easily, and instantly (we did rejet). Thisa means that ignition switch powers the CDI to running mode, and the brake light circuit only blocks the starter relay circuit.
There are two wires on the brake lights switches. The black wire gets 12V when you turn the key on (this is why it was blowing the fuse). The other wire (green) gets 12V when you hit the brakes.
***I do not understand how your brake switch defeat works. If you don't hit the brake, that green wire doesn't have 12V.
I tested the FOUR wires on the R/S connector, and none of them get 12V when you turn on the ignition (one is a ground). How does NOT hitting the brake provide power to the R/S switch after your mod? I am just not getting this
