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Old 06-08-2024, 01:57 PM   #31
ProDigit   ProDigit is online now
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
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I just swapped the 35 pilot to a 38 pilot jet.
Idle has become slightly less stable, but still well within expectations.

I upped the main jet from 110 to 115, adjusted 3-4 turns on the AF screw to 1.5 turns, and the bike was stoic all the way through the rev range; however, once the bike was warmed up, it did stutter at WOT, which indicates it was running rich. This due to my muffler, I'm not running a fully open muffler anymore.
The bike also has gained a more consistent acceleration from 1-6k RPM, where as before it would kind of run a little off between 5-6k RPM.
The 6-7K RPM acceleration bump is still there.

I went through the jets, to see if I had a 112 main jet, and found something peculiar,
The 110 jet on my bike was larger than the 110 jet included in the kit.
I have a drill that fits one, but doesn't fit the other.
So what I did, was use the drill on the old 110 jet, to drill it out closer to a 112 jet.
Just put the jet on a rotating drill, and slightly have it file off the sides.
While I can't say for certain the size of the jet, it appears to me to be larger than 110, but smaller than a 115, so somewhere between a 111-114; 112-113 more precisely.

Once mounted the carburetor again, the idle to 5k RPM runs great with the AF screw 2-2.5 turns out, however the top end still seems rich (no burping).
So I turned the AF screw to 1-1 1/4 turn out, and idle to 5k rpm is still good (slightly lower acceleration on the butt dyno), but top end sounds like it's pretty spot on.

Top speed funny enough, hasn't changed. Drafting trucks it slowly creeps to 77-78MPH (72MPH).
If anything, this bike likes to run a bit leaner on the top end; probably due to it's lower compression ratios.

That being said, the 38 pilot is a huge improvement over the 35 pilot, while the 110 to 112 main jet only reduced exhaust noise a bit.

That defines the boundaries of the jetting on the stock engine in my area.



I've been on the fence to get a bigger or smaller rear sprocket, while still being able to maintain top speed if needed.
When running in 4th gear, the bike easily reaches 63 MPH with the 19/30T sprocket setup, and seems it has some extra to go.

So instead of trying to go faster in 5th, I'll try to maintain 65MPH in 4th instead, and leave 5th gear for <50mph downtown runs, or tailgating trucks with a tailwind maybe getting it up to 79MPH.

I'll be ordering a 29T rear sprocket instead of a 31 or 32T in the near future.

But before that, I'd like to see some more data on running 10W40 motorcycle oil vs current 10W30 car engine oil.

So one of my first projects will be an oil change to motorcycle oil.
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Old 06-16-2024, 02:54 PM   #32
ProDigit   ProDigit is online now
 
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Now that I've got over 1k miles on the bike, I've done my first oil change to 10W40.

After the break-in, I can testify that 10W40 is the better oil for this bike.
The difference between the 10w30 I used before and the 10w40 I used now, is:

1- less vibrations. The plastics aren't making as much noise as they did with the 10W30 oil, which indicates that this is the better oil.

2- the idle went from ~1250rpm on 10w30 down to <1k rpm on 10W40.
On cold it stalled, so needing to up the idle rpm.

3- top speed lowered from ~79mph indicated to ~77mpg indicated.

After the oil change, I swapped exhausts. Same exhaust, but with a different muffler allowing for more airflow with slightly less exhaust noise.
This adjusted my AF ratios, to slightly less torque at lower rpms.
The exhaust seems to derestrict the power loss past 7k rpm. Where as before, the bike has a torque increase between 6-7k rpm, it now is less noticeable between 6-8k rpm, with much less vibrations along the way.

I think I've fully tuned the bike.

My next project will be replace theb150cc engine with a CG250 engine.
The 150 has too little torque to be on the highway. The 250 has more, which can be converted to HP with taller gear ratios, allowing me to get closer to highway speeds than with the 150cc engine.
Apparently there also is a cheaper CG200 engine, which would have been better for me (adding just the power I need, and maintaining respectable fuel efficiency). It's only 31cc smaller than the CG250, however the 250 is what I have at home now.
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Old Yesterday, 10:25 PM   #33
ProDigit   ProDigit is online now
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
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Ready for a new project, which I suspect wont lead to much.
Current bike runs a pz27 carburetor, and idle is rock solid. Top speed, I wished I had a little more; but I already maximized intake and exhaust.

I know the pz27 is made for the 150, but I just wanted to see what would happen if I installed a PZ30 on it.

From research online, it appears that a larger carburetor, will require larger jets.
My PZ27 configuration is 38 pilot, and 112 main.
The PZ30 came with OEM with a 38 pilot and a 108 main, which I swapped for a 42 pilot, and a 115 main. Just a modest jump up, which I'll change depending on how the bike responds.
I just want to see if it's possible to run the bike with a PZ30.

I hope I'll have the time to tune the bike this weekend, and that I have some results (whether good or bad) to share.

I do still have the PZ27, which I can swap back after all is said and done, unless if there's a way to make the PZ30 work better than the 27; much like how many Vader 125 users install a 24 carburetor instead of the 22mm that comes with it.

From the factory, my PZ30 had a float axle issue, where the axle just fell out.
I had to squeeze the steel float mounts for the axle to fit snugly in, so it won't fall out anymore. I presume more people might have similar problems, where the float doesn't work anymore, due to a loose axle.

Hopefully I'll have more results on Saturday or Sunday.
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Old Today, 01:13 PM   #34
ProDigit   ProDigit is online now
 
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Shows that online advice can be wrong.

I installed the pz30 carburetor, and initially it had some issues, like high idle (stuck air intake tube). Once figured out, the bike ran way too rich.
I went back to the OEM carburetor settings of a 38 pilot and 108 main (compared to the 38 pilot and 112 main on the pz27, its about the same jets), AF screw all the way in, and it ran a lot better. Shows not all on the inets is correct.

The choke really revs the bike high, but it idles fine and rides fine in my initial testing. Bike hasn't ran hot yet with the PZ30.

High speed tests later today.
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Old Today, 02:25 PM   #35
Thumper   Thumper is online now
 
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Wait a minute. I thought if it was on the internet, it was true. And I thought a stuck valve prevented a 1cylinder engine from running. How does it cause a high idle

Can you summarize the number and combinations of sprockets you've tried to increase your horspower? I got lost in the posts on this. Which one increased the horsepower the most?
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