11-06-2018, 02:04 PM
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#1 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 38
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Gotta love the quality
Just hit 90 miles and this happens
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11-06-2018, 02:11 PM
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#2 |
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: CO
Posts: 1,525
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What is that long broken bolt from?
Looks like it was a little loose and was "torqued/twisted/pressed down on" in a funny way to break at the threads like that... Seen something similar on my 1999 Kawasaki KLR 650 when I upgraded the Frame Bolts  also seen it happen on loose brake caliper bolts when someone tried to stop, and when someone flat out "over torques" a nut/bolt either not following "Torque Specs" from the "Factory Service Manual" or using an crap/cheap/rusty bolt 
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"Think as you like... but this self proclaimed Professor is always right" - Buckshot  "You never know what someone is hiding beneath their smile..." - NinjaTom - R.I.P. |
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11-06-2018, 02:56 PM
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#3 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 38
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Quote:
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11-06-2018, 03:16 PM
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 38
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Quote:
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11-06-2018, 04:17 PM
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#7 |
Join Date: Oct 2016
Posts: 347
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At least it's not the axel!
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Electrician & Electronics Tech 2014 Honda CB500XA 2016 CSC TT250 1976 Honda CJ360T 2022 Honda Navi |
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11-06-2018, 04:28 PM
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#8 | |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 38
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Quote:
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11-06-2018, 04:58 PM
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#9 |
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 286
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I must be lucky, I got 300 miles and haven't had them break (yet). I replaced both axle bolts with Grom bolts.
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2018 BD125-8-x21rs ZS190/Genuine PE28 Kepspeed GP1 Exhaust Protaper se x110 bars/grips 1/4 MotionPro throttle Kepspeed Braced swingarm Chimera rear hub assy Grom Intergrated tail light Superlite Sprockets 17/32 custom made from Japan Chimera Swing Arm Bolt RK MXZ Chain #420 All Balls wheel bearings Motodynamic fender eliminator Coremoto ss brake lines Composimo 2.5 lower link Grom Calipers-w/ebc pads/rotors Michelin tire 140&120 13x4/13x7 fatties Grom forks |
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11-06-2018, 05:14 PM
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#10 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 38
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I'm just going to drill the hole out to fit from bolts. After looking at its too easy.
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11-06-2018, 10:09 PM
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#12 |
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 9,056
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On my old enduros, I would upgrade with True Value bolts and nuts. I am guessing the Grom bolt route would be your best bet.
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"They say that life's a carousel, spinning fast you got to ride it well..." TGB Delivery Scooter 150 TMEC 200 Enduro--carcass is sadly rotting in the backyard |
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11-06-2018, 11:09 PM
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#13 |
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Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 38
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It's crazy because today was the only day I've been able to ride due to fuel problem and not break down. They bike was running great because I installed a carb this past weekend. Now the engine bolt. I can't say I'm mad, as I was waiting for it to happen. I have class 10 bolts that was recommended by a user on here, but I think I'm just going to make the mounting holes on the engine bigger and use grom bolts. All the other vital bolts on bike a from a grom so I might as well do the mount bolts too.
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11-06-2018, 11:56 PM
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#14 |
Join Date: Dec 2017
Posts: 216
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I replaced the bolts on my Hellcat and haven't had any issues ...yet. I think a good solution would be to weld a doubler plate or a bushing on the outside of the mounting holes so that the load on the bolts would be spread across a wider area. You'd have to use a longer bolt of course.
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11-07-2018, 02:46 PM
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#15 |
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Join Date: Mar 2018
Posts: 249
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The bolts break due to the heavy amount of vibrations from the 125cc engine. Apparently the 190cc does not vibrate as much.
Drilling out the engine casing works. Or run the Class 10.9 (Grade 8 equivalent) or go with Class 12.9 (higher than grade 8). |
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