Rear wheel bearing sizes

Skip_200gy · 05-02-2008, 02:36 PM

While removing my rear sprocket, I noticed the bearings are very stiff. I can't turn them with my fingers. (the bike has only 300km on the clock) I'm considering replacing them. I don't want to remove them until I have found new ones.
I checked the codes, measured and referenced them and I came up with the following:
BEARING BORE O.D. WIDTH PRICE
6302-2RS 15MM 42MM 13MM 1.12

Does anybody know if this is the correct sizes? The bearing code is what I have written down.
(oh, damn, please don't ask me to convert to inches)

Thank you.

AZ200cc · 05-02-2008, 02:44 PM

Is that a sealed bearing? If it is that 302 might be the number if it was on the bearing itself You need.
It would be a 302ss in a national number..Not sure though I have not taken one out before. Timken should use the same number if it is, Not sure on Chicago Rawhide.

Skip_200gy · 05-02-2008, 02:58 PM

Yep, the number was on the rubber side. There is quite a few references on the internet to that number and all of them have the same size.
I tried to measure the bearing without removing them, but it was too difficult and you know as well as me, even 0.5mm difference is going to create a problem.

I'm just not sure if they are sealed on both sides, I'm sure they are.

AZ200cc · 05-02-2008, 03:39 PM

Should be, Most parts houses should stock that number 302ss which is sealed on both sides..That's why it has two S's

Skip_200gy · 05-02-2008, 03:58 PM

I had a look through the forum for bearing sizes and found something interesting in the bike setup thread. The part about the seal sizes that is wrong and letting dirt in.
I've noticed the same thing on mine. The seal on the brake caliper side is dirty on the inside, obviously not sealing very well. (I played in the mud by accident last week). I've decided to replace the seal with one with a smaller inside diameter. The current one is 25mm, I'll replace it with a 24mm, which is the exact same size as the part of the caliper that goes inside it.
I can only suspect that that is the reason why my bearings are so tight. Then again, they are suppose to be sealed and dirt should not have messed them up in the first place.
My second theory is that it is just plain crappy bearings that was installed in the first place.
I'm really not looking forward to removing the old bearings. Any known easy tricks to remove the old ones?

red2003 · 05-02-2008, 04:16 PM

Hammer and a long punch. Should pop right out. Go through from one side and hammer out the opposite bearing / seal. Flop the rim over, same procedure for the other side.

AZ200cc · 05-02-2008, 04:22 PM

Probably not the best bearing in the world, And might have sat in a bin for a long long time

Skip_200gy · 05-03-2008, 10:16 AM

Job done and all is back to normal.
I was able to get a Cclip at the bearing place. I had to go back because it was the wrong size. The lady explained to me how to measure, but I'm still not sure, all I know is that she judged it right and the Cclip fits perfectly.
New 41 tooth sprocket is one, can't wait for the rain to stop to go and test it.

I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to make a note in the Bikeprep topic to tell people to make sure the Cclip is installed. Luckily I picked the problem up, but it could have turned nasty if I didn't.

My bearing sizes was correct. I replaced them, without too much effort. Unfortunately they did not have the seals in stock, I'll get them on Monday and then sometime I'll install them. I'm going to go 1mm smaller on the brake caliper size to prevent dirt from getting in again.

I know I'm babbling on here, but maybe someday somebody might find this info. useful.

Thanks for everyones advice.

glenski · 02-26-2009, 03:35 PM

Quote:

I know I'm babbling on here, but maybe someday somebody might find this info. useful.

I'm that guy. I am planning on putting on new rubber all around and noticed at the end of last year that my rear tire has some lateral play in it just at the wheel not at the swingarm. I have chalked it up to bad wheel bearings since the PO new nothing about the dust seal being too large.

I just want to clarify the sizing, when you went into the bearing place you asked for a "two 302ss bearings"? is that everything you needed to know? Are the sizes for the front and rear the same? Forgive my ignorance but I am like you and want to make sure I have the right parts before I remove the wheels.

Thanks,
Glenski

Cal25 · 02-26-2009, 07:16 PM

6302 with dust seals on bothe sides.

glenski · 02-26-2009, 07:44 PM

Quote:

6302 with dust seals on bothe sides.

Thanks, Is this the same for front and rear by any chance?
Glenski

TheRealWorld · 02-26-2009, 07:48 PM

I just wanted to mention that most newer bearings do feel tight, when you try to turn them, so I am not sure the original question had a bad bearing. They should be quiet and not have any grittiness.

Cal25 · 02-26-2009, 08:32 PM

Mine are the same. The front bearings on my bike did not appear to be working. They were too tight to turn and evidence was on the axle that the races were turning on the axle.

05-02-2008, 02:36 PM	#1
Skip_200gy Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 66	Rear wheel bearing sizes While removing my rear sprocket, I noticed the bearings are very stiff. I can't turn them with my fingers. (the bike has only 300km on the clock) I'm considering replacing them. I don't want to remove them until I have found new ones. I checked the codes, measured and referenced them and I came up with the following: BEARING BORE O.D. WIDTH PRICE 6302-2RS 15MM 42MM 13MM 1.12 Does anybody know if this is the correct sizes? The bearing code is what I have written down. (oh, damn, please don't ask me to convert to inches) Thank you. __________________ 2008 Wonjan WJ200GY-B 2000-2004 Yamaha YZF-R6 '99-2000 Honda CBR400nc23 '94-'95 Honda CB650 '90-'93 Honda MT5 and MB5
	0

05-02-2008, 02:44 PM	#2
AZ200cc Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Show Low Arizona Posts: 2,889	Is that a sealed bearing? If it is that 302 might be the number if it was on the bearing itself You need. It would be a 302ss in a national number..Not sure though I have not taken one out before. Timken should use the same number if it is, Not sure on Chicago Rawhide. __________________ <br />2001 Suzuki DR200SE<br />1997 Suzuki RM250 YIKES<br />1995 Yamaha Breeze 125 daughters<br />1991 Honda XR80r Restored<br />maybe a 2003 Yamaha TTR90
	0

05-02-2008, 02:58 PM	#3
Skip_200gy Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 66	bearing Yep, the number was on the rubber side. There is quite a few references on the internet to that number and all of them have the same size. I tried to measure the bearing without removing them, but it was too difficult and you know as well as me, even 0.5mm difference is going to create a problem. I'm just not sure if they are sealed on both sides, I'm sure they are. __________________ 2008 Wonjan WJ200GY-B 2000-2004 Yamaha YZF-R6 '99-2000 Honda CBR400nc23 '94-'95 Honda CB650 '90-'93 Honda MT5 and MB5
	0

05-02-2008, 03:39 PM	#4
AZ200cc Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Show Low Arizona Posts: 2,889	Should be, Most parts houses should stock that number 302ss which is sealed on both sides..That's why it has two S's __________________ <br />2001 Suzuki DR200SE<br />1997 Suzuki RM250 YIKES<br />1995 Yamaha Breeze 125 daughters<br />1991 Honda XR80r Restored<br />maybe a 2003 Yamaha TTR90
	0

05-02-2008, 03:58 PM	#5
Skip_200gy Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 66	oil seals I had a look through the forum for bearing sizes and found something interesting in the bike setup thread. The part about the seal sizes that is wrong and letting dirt in. I've noticed the same thing on mine. The seal on the brake caliper side is dirty on the inside, obviously not sealing very well. (I played in the mud by accident last week). I've decided to replace the seal with one with a smaller inside diameter. The current one is 25mm, I'll replace it with a 24mm, which is the exact same size as the part of the caliper that goes inside it. I can only suspect that that is the reason why my bearings are so tight. Then again, they are suppose to be sealed and dirt should not have messed them up in the first place. My second theory is that it is just plain crappy bearings that was installed in the first place. I'm really not looking forward to removing the old bearings. Any known easy tricks to remove the old ones? __________________ 2008 Wonjan WJ200GY-B 2000-2004 Yamaha YZF-R6 '99-2000 Honda CBR400nc23 '94-'95 Honda CB650 '90-'93 Honda MT5 and MB5
	0

05-02-2008, 04:16 PM	#6
red2003 Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Northern Vermont, USA Posts: 1,271	Hammer and a long punch. Should pop right out. Go through from one side and hammer out the opposite bearing / seal. Flop the rim over, same procedure for the other side. __________________ First Chinabike: 2006 Roketa RSX200E Current Chinabikes: 2023 Titan DLX & 2022 Lifan KP Mini w/ 210cc BRT kit, 22 RWHP!
	0

05-02-2008, 04:22 PM	#7
AZ200cc Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Show Low Arizona Posts: 2,889	Probably not the best bearing in the world, And might have sat in a bin for a long long time __________________ <br />2001 Suzuki DR200SE<br />1997 Suzuki RM250 YIKES<br />1995 Yamaha Breeze 125 daughters<br />1991 Honda XR80r Restored<br />maybe a 2003 Yamaha TTR90
	0

05-03-2008, 10:16 AM	#8
Skip_200gy Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: South Africa Posts: 66	Done Job done and all is back to normal. I was able to get a Cclip at the bearing place. I had to go back because it was the wrong size. The lady explained to me how to measure, but I'm still not sure, all I know is that she judged it right and the Cclip fits perfectly. New 41 tooth sprocket is one, can't wait for the rain to stop to go and test it. I wonder if it wouldn't be a good idea to make a note in the Bikeprep topic to tell people to make sure the Cclip is installed. Luckily I picked the problem up, but it could have turned nasty if I didn't. My bearing sizes was correct. I replaced them, without too much effort. Unfortunately they did not have the seals in stock, I'll get them on Monday and then sometime I'll install them. I'm going to go 1mm smaller on the brake caliper size to prevent dirt from getting in again. I know I'm babbling on here, but maybe someday somebody might find this info. useful. Thanks for everyones advice. __________________ 2008 Wonjan WJ200GY-B 2000-2004 Yamaha YZF-R6 '99-2000 Honda CBR400nc23 '94-'95 Honda CB650 '90-'93 Honda MT5 and MB5
	0

02-26-2009, 07:16 PM	#10
Cal25 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Terrell and Grapevine Tx. Posts: 1,585	6302 with dust seals on bothe sides.
	0

02-26-2009, 07:48 PM	#12
TheRealWorld Join Date: Jun 2008 Posts: 817	I just wanted to mention that most newer bearings do feel tight, when you try to turn them, so I am not sure the original question had a bad bearing. They should be quiet and not have any grittiness.
	0

02-26-2009, 08:32 PM	#13
Cal25 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Terrell and Grapevine Tx. Posts: 1,585	Mine are the same. The front bearings on my bike did not appear to be working. They were too tight to turn and evidence was on the axle that the races were turning on the axle.
	0