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#1 |
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Vancouver BC / Pahoa HI
Posts: 8
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XF200 Carb Issue?
Hey guys
I've got a 2009 Qlink XF200. I like it alot and it has treated me well over the 1000 or so miles I put on it in the 1.5 months I spent last year riding it everyday. I've got the sprocket upgrades along with a few odds n ends mostly for aesthetics. The motorcycle did die on my last year though. I had an odd issue where the bike's electrics would shut off so it would eventually come to a stop. But if I held down a button like the high-beam or horn, the bike would run at full power again for about 5 seconds and then die off. I had no idea what this issue was so I just ordered a bunch of electrical parts from Qlink USA (Geez what an ordeal that was...) So the bike runs now, no electrical issues. The low beam headlight seems to have burntout and I need a new flasher relay, but nothing to worry about. But when I ride the bike, it doesn't seem to go over 6000rpm. I thought it was a carb issue, as I've replaced the CDI, Rectifier and coil. I took the carb out and cleaned it in boiling water and lemon twice, and ran a bunch or carb cleaner through it. Cleaned out the air filter as best I could, but it's not even that dirty. After doing all this it is still have the issue of what would appear to be a clogged main jet? Any other things I should look at? I'm going to tear into the carb one last time tmrw and triple check I didn't miss anything. Thanks for your help guys. |
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#2 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Welcome!
Did you actually remove the main jet when you cleaned the carb?
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#3 |
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Vancouver BC / Pahoa HI
Posts: 8
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The pilot jet is the large one, and the main is the longer thin one that is recessed? Whatever the one that is easily accessible is the one that i removed, but now that I'm writing this I realize I should have removed the smaller jet that was harder to get at. I think I went to look for a smaller screwdriver and got distracted...
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#4 |
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Brisbane, Queensland, Australia
Posts: 648
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did you check the valves? if they or one of them is too tight the engine will start and run in a fashion, but sputter when you open the throttle; hard to get over 50 km/h.
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#5 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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X2 on checking the valves.
To respond to your question, the large jet is the main, and the recessed jet is the slow jet in every carb I've worked on.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#6 |
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Vancouver BC / Pahoa HI
Posts: 8
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Well the jets and passages are clear. Need to try and figure out a 10mm Allen key though so I can check the valves. This is my vacation bike so man is it frustrating having to work on this thing so much and not be able to ride it out of the neighborhood!
Thanks again for your help guys, much more helpful than the Qlink technician. |
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#7 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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10mm allen key! Wow, what uses such a large key? Is it the inspection hole plug?
Harbor Freight / Princess Auto is a good source for low priced tools like that, but I don't think you have either in Pahoa. My guess is that any Metric allen wrenches you find at Walmart only go up to 8mm. Let us know if you simply can't find one, and I'm sure one of us can help.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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#8 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
Posts: 14,761
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I bought a set of large Allen keys at an autoparts store. You also need a giant one, I forget the size, to loosen the front axle.
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Happy to serve. |
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#9 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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Double nut a metric bolt with a 10mm head. Use the bolt head as the allen wrench and then just use a 10mm wrench.
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You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone. |
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#10 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
Posts: 14,761
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I tried that on the Q's axle but was not quite strong enough.
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Happy to serve. |
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#11 |
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Vancouver BC / Pahoa HI
Posts: 8
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Got the 10mm allen key for $4 but the feeler gauge had to be ordered in because they didn't have anything that thin. I'm kind of in the boonies here which is nice and relaxing, but not so great if you're trying to get stuff done. It's especially frustrating knowing that I own all these tools back home and I could already be riding.
That being said, while I wait for the gauge to arrive, is there anything else I can check? I know the main jet is clear, but it really sees like a carb issue. I've had the carbs apart three times now, changed the CDI, rectifier and coil, cleaned the air filter, checked the spark plug, put new gas in it, new fuel filter, fiddled with the air/fuel mixture screw. I'm pretty confused here, these bikes are only thumpers, I've been workin ony my 4-cylinder honda CB350 for a few years and it hasn't given me any issues like this. Maybe I didn't clean the carbs out properly? I removed the main jet and i could see through it then installed it and blew through it and it felt fine. Anything else before I give up and ride this off a cliff to show my anger at shitty Qlink customer support? |
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#12 |
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,065
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If I remember right, you needed the key to remove the side cover to bring the engine to TDC. Setting the valves are a pain because the frame down tube is in the way of the front. Here's ChinaV's excellent how-to over at MCM. Angled feeler gauges work the best.
http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/sh...ghlight=valves The motors are the same as they made by Qinqi. I thought he posted the same info here but I couldn't find it right away. As for the carb. Qlinks have a CV carb. This has a diaphram that is kind of sensitive to solvents. You have to be careful about spraying carb clean into passages as it can melt the rubber. You might want to check it for distortion. It is under the round cover on top. If you haven't already, seek out and download the Qlink manual that Andrew (JTCAndrew) posted for us. There is a Portugese version as well. This post has links to both (post 4); http://www.chinariders.net/showthrea...=english+qlink A bit more on the carb. I had to replace the intake manifold on my 2009 XF200 as it tore at the bottom. I believe it was from taking the carb out a few too many times to change out jets and such. If you can get the bike running, spray some of that carb cleaner around each of the carb manifolds to see if the rpms change. One last thing, check the battery. These bikes will not run without a battery. A few of us have run into the problem where the bike will start and idle well but will stall when throttle is applied. A new battery was the cure.
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#13 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Southeastern Washington desert
Posts: 14,761
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Some very good advise, David.
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Happy to serve. |
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#14 |
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Idaho
Posts: 25,054
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As always.
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Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." ![]() 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894 |
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#15 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Excellent points, David.
GG, while you're awaiting the feeler guages, you could do a quick check. Set the engine at TDC, and you should be able to wiggle the rockers. If you can't, you're either 180 degrees out or the valves are too tight.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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