HS-GY-200 2007

[undertulsa]

Ok, Well I got new 07, 15mi, and let me tell you, left store, got home, the main headset bolt was missing completely, as well as many other bolts, I I then discovered later after 30mi round trip that the front tire bolt was
hand loose. Geez what a day. all tires pressure was off fixed, should i tighten spokes. can these wheels be balanced?

I knew i was getting into something but this LSun Dealer could have killed me twice today.

1. ok need link to thread on sprocket suggestion
for my model. Help, can barely go 45-50mph.mph.

2. the whole mofo feels wicked at a incorrect spedo reading of 50 think spedo off 10mph. *(testing) following all tightening recomm. too. i wanna live and have my teeth.

3. definitely a click when hard front break in the head set assembly since they just put a bolt on it this am after risking my life, ha! does it need more than the big bolt just saw threads no washer? suggestions.

4. is the locktight sufficant to hold the problem or should i just get use to checkin her out. think that might be a stupid question.

5. i need speed gentlemen, im a courier for Dell and i need to zip in and out fast with confidence... or some.

6. ok i still had gas in reserve but got no response. get use to keeping her full? 1.5 gal.

also im gonna weld a whole bunch of joints and points.

ps the dealer told me oil in it was "break in oil" thanks to your post i avoided that nightmare. 10w-40 dino oil for 1000k then synthetic till death.

promise to post pictures soon man i had a day full too dead, need your help fast so i can get road worthy before the drivers test, yes oklahoma requires. 250.00ticket if you blow it off.

help! Mike and yes that sprockets gonna get me killed too slow!!! please list distributor for part if poss. I have been reading you guys for week now i know you can help. thanks!

menutter@hotmail.com
undertulsa@gmail.com

[BUG]

The rear sprocket is a JTR269. The popular choice is a 45 tooth making the part number JTR269.45 You should be able to get one from almost anyplace that sells motorcycle parts.


Tighten the spokes if they are loose, as far as tire balance, i would just reposition the tire on the rim and make sure it seats properly, it may solve your problem.

[undertulsa]

So you only change the rear wheel sprocket, do you have to change the
front one that drives the chain 2?

[SeerAtlas]

Man,
sounds like you need to go thru the whole bike prep thread. Also, I'd suggest a little breakin on that bike before you ruin the rings/bore. NOT good to be running full throttle/high revs at 15 miles!!!!!!

Somewhere here is a relatively quick break in method that might work for you. I use an abbreviated break in procedure myself and I've NEVER burnt a valve or glazed a cylinder so it does work, but sounds like the dealer you purchased from is an imbecile, so you better go thru the whole bike. Headset adjustment is IMPORTANT. There is a free online motorcycle mechanic's course which several people have referred to on this board. Dave's something or other. Try search here.

The above recommendations on properly seating tires and tubes is a good one. Go to 30psi in both tires and MAKE SURE the valve stems are straight up i.e. parallel to the rim before you do it. When you're 'zipping' thru traffic, you don't want to pull the valve stem loose and blow a tire.

You have the sprocket info, make sure you have it secured so the bolts won't come loose after the install. If a bolt backs out and hangs on something it will REALLY ruin your day...an instant and often painful lesson in physics.

REAL QUICK!!.. here's what's going on during an engine break in. Your rings have to 'grind' against the relatively rough surface of the cylinder walls so achieve a smooth surface and "fit". As they do this, things get HOT. Too hot and you ruin both the rings and cylinder, too cold and burnt oil fills in the little imperfections in the surfaces, and 'glazes' the surfaces so you never get a good seal. If you don't get a good seal, you loose compression, get blow by, and less power...soooo, what you WANT to do is short runs, preferably in cool weather. Start the bike up, bring it to operating temp, then in the lower gears 'goose' it a bit, just a few seconds. The power application blows the rings out against the cylinder wall under pressure, you get metal to metal contact, which acts to polish the two meeting surfaces. BUT, this will cause the metal to quickly heat up, so you do it in short bursts with intermittent low throttle cooldown time. At first you want to run it up, give it some power, chop the throttle to suck some oil up onto the piston and cool it down, then shut the bike down.
Let it cool down, then repeat the process. Each time you do this you are accomplishing two things, improving the seal, and 'work hardening' or 'tempering' the metal. As the bore 'polishes' and the surfaces mate, they will also (assuming you follow this procedure) get harder, and therefore last longer. If you're careful, you can get an amazing amount of miles out of inferior engines, as with each warmup, full pressure, chop throttle cooldown, and shut off procedure, all engine surfaces, even the transmission teeth, will both mate their surfaces, and harden at the same time, essentially improving the metal to metal contact and reducing wear.

Change oil frequently and don't switch to the synthetics too soon, especially in these wet oil bath clutch bikes. Oh, and that raises another issue. Make sure your clutch is adjusted correctly. YOU HAVE TO HAVE SOME FREE PLAY IN THE CABLE TO ENSURE FULL RELEASE>. If you tighten the cable too much, you'll be running with partially compressed springs which will slip under load and burn the thing up over time.

If I was you, I'd go to the enduro prep thread and go thru the whole thing on your bike before you do anything else. Sounds like it was assembled by a complete tyro, and as you've already noted, you've dodged the bullet twice already. Don't make the third time the *charm*

good luck. You'll find your SUNL is essentially the same as my Hanma, and Bug's and others' Hsuns etc. Mine is really coming along nicely and running very smoothly with remarkable torque for 200. Oh, one last thing, these are pushrod motors, so high revs is not going to get you anything anyway, I think you'll find that 6500 to 7000 rpm or so is about the best power producing range for the motor. Once its broken in, however, there are some easy mods which will get you some more top end for 'roading' however, remember that everything in the engine is related, you can't change *just one thing* without changing the rest or you'll lose performance instead of gain it. So if you mod for more fuel, you'll need more air, and more exhaust...an engine is nothing other than a big air pump and the power developed is *roughly* the difference between the ambient air pressure and the pressure developed inside the motor. Restrictions going in and/or coming out are going to lessen that differential, and thus lessen overall power.

First things first tho, go thru the setup procedure, locktite everything, make sure the thing is safe to ride from the get go. And the second biggest thing you can do to ensure longevity and and performance, is adjust that clutch and learn how to shift. A good rider can shift both up and down with lightning speed with just a nudge on the clutch. A great rider doesn't need the clutch at all, but will still 'bump' it.

ok, one more *last* thing put the bike up on a stand, get some good hi temp (red) bearing grease, block up the wheels so they are *just* supported. Pull the front axle *almost* all the way out out while someone holds the wheel in place so everything doesn't move (there are shims in there)slather grease all over the axle and stuff a bunch in the hole, then slowly push the axle back in while turning it slowly. You should end up with a bunch of grease being pushed out the other side. Then bolt it down and locktite the thing. Do the same for the swing arm bolt. Do the same for the rear axle. You'll be glad you did. I'm a bit worried about your headset. Make sure that thing is heavily greased and adjusted correctly. Too much play and you're going to get vibration city and tear things up. Too little, and the steering will bind-also a *bad* thing.

Oh, you'll also find you want to adjust that rear shock. Mine was set up for a chinese family of four. At the stock setting it was like concrete, even with my 240 odd pounds. When I added a lithe young lady to the saddle, well things bounced along quite nicely hehehe.

Good luck

Seer

[katoranger]

Check to make the nut under the upper triple clamp is tight. This will cause that clicking on the steering. Also can cause alot of vibes.

Best to remove the top clamp to tighten it.

Go with a 45 rear. It is a nice happy medium. Espicially if you are heavier. You should be able to hold 60 with no problems then.

Check EVERYTHING over.

[undertulsa]

Havent gone over 6000rpm even on that first long haul.

found lots of other bolts loose this am. Im taking the whole thing apart
and tightening everything.

the headset bolt that was put on was wrenched down tight after we
discovered it was missing?? will check anyway, lost allot of confidence last 24 hrs.

[katoranger]

There is a bolt that is on top of the upper clamp. I think this is one that you said was missing. Don't worry about that one so much. It is the LARGE nut under the upper clamp that actually sets the preload on the bearings for the steering.

Take a look at this schematic. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmot.../m2988sch20100

You want to tighten part number 10 in the pic. The best way to do this is to loosen the upper triple clamp and take it off. Then tighten up that nut tight and then back it off slightly. Just so you have alittle resistance on the turning of the bars. Then put you upper clamp back on and tighten everything down.

Allen

[undertulsa]

You were right the bolt on the threads directly below the main bolt, makes sense since the main bolt wasnt on the lower one prob. wasnt tightened during the assembly. If he missed the bolt, he prob missed the threaded bolt too.




thanks to everyone, making progress. all suggestions welcomed.

[katoranger]

I don't believe it would be the first one to not be tight. I read an article and a guy who bought 3 new suzukis. All three were not tight. So even the jap dealers don't always do a good job.

Allen