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03-06-2019, 08:07 AM | #1 |
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Youngstown, OH
Posts: 56
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Hawk 250 first start problems
Hello fellow riders! i was wondering if someone could give me some tips on getting this puppy to start up and idle. As of now it has fressh oil, brand new ngk spark plug, and stock carb. I have gotten it to sputter a few times with choke full on and giving some gas, but it dies very very quickly. i have the upgraded mikuni carb on the shelf. What jets should i put in it for 20-30 degrees and 1000 ft elevation? Was also wondering if i should first mess with the stock carb just to get it started and warmed up so i can properly set valve lash.. then swap carb and retune?
p.s. this is brand new hawk and i dont want to mess annything up lol |
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03-06-2019, 08:13 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Houma, La.
Posts: 11,707
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Remove the cap that covers the idle mixture screw and set the idle mixture at 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated. That will be the best starting point. You can also shim the needle with two thin washers. You will still need to change the 98 main out to at least a 110 but not necessary at this point as that only for 3/4 to full throttle.
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03-06-2019, 05:53 PM | #4 |
Join Date: Feb 2019
Location: Youngstown, OH
Posts: 56
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ALAS WE HAVE IDLE! thankyou everyone! it was the idle set screw! Next question is can i take a short mile ride before setting valve lash? im getting very excited but still not getting ahead of myself haha. Im also coming across many different specs for intake and exhaust valves.. What works for you guys?
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03-06-2019, 07:16 PM | #5 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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03-06-2019, 08:11 PM | #6 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Hell
Posts: 2,408
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Let me explain. 0.003 inch is 0.08mm soooooo close its not funny So you "set" to that as you think it is correct( 3 thou), now what you do to check your self is as follows: use the 0.07mm and that should fall thru so it is bigger then that, then use a 0.09mm and that should be a really firm one to get thru the gap (it shows it is slightly smaller) and THEN you get the 0.10 and that shouldn't pass thru the gap as the gap should be smaller, if not you did it wrong. 0.10 is a little under 0.004 inch but close enough to call it 4 thou. See what I mean? you can see if the initial feel of the blade passing is in fact correct as I suspect ( I might be wrong) that many guys with little or no experience are in fact setting their valves incorrectly with the "feel" aspect and this way you can test if you have it right or not. All valve clearances give you a small range so lets sya 0.0025 tho to 0.0035 tho and you use 3 thou. In mm that would be something like 0.07mm to 0.09mm and that is close enough to the favoured 3 thou setting. My "Go no Go" method will show that you are in fact in that range - 0.07 was too loose 0.09 was too tight and 0.10 shouldn't pass when forced or pass but so hard to do so that it is clear it is smaller than 0.10mm. So that is a method I suggest people use so they actually know it is set to the size they use and confirmed with the "test Go no Go" rather then " only thinking it is" but might be wrong or too big etc. That is why in my tool kit on eBay it has mm feeler gauges. Most guys say 3 thou in and ex so 0.08mm (0.07mm to 0.09mm range) I prefer 0.06mm in and 0.08mm ex but I won't argue the size but I know my Go n Go method will help folk to check if in fact they set it correctly. I prefer tank off so it is easier to get to everything and I ONLY ever use the proper tool to adj the valve bolt and square head adjuster which is available in my eBay store in the tool set if folk need it. |
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03-07-2019, 09:06 AM | #7 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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03-10-2019, 10:20 PM | #8 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Hell
Posts: 2,408
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Quote:
mm gauges are much smaller and gives a finer increment in testing 0.01mm is less then half a thou which is 0.0127mm So by using mm feeler gauges and using the go n go method your testing to a much smaller tolerance Again my opinion and backed with a theory and some fact Each to their own but that’s the VERY reason I supply mm feeler gauges in my tool set on eBay I see and believe it’s a more accurate way and test with mm feeler gauges |
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03-06-2019, 08:35 PM | #9 |
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: N Texas
Posts: 706
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I rode mine a several months without adjusting them. I could tell a nice diff when I did though. I think you are good to go for some break in rides.
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03-06-2019, 11:15 PM | #10 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Why: 1. As valves "break in" with the engine the valves settle into the seat some, essentially making the valve clearances tighter. 2. Tight cold valve clearances lead to valves not sealing once hot. Intake valves not seating = potential backfires through the carb. Exhaust valve not seating = burned exhaust valves. Neither seating = lost compression = lost power and efficiency. It can also lead to improper carb tuning. My advice. With a cold engine (has sat several hours) set your valve lash. It takes 15-20 minutes tops to do.
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Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124 |
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03-07-2019, 08:43 AM | #11 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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03-10-2019, 04:00 PM | #12 |
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Montucky
Posts: 209
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I sat my valve lash from the get go, checked and adjusted again at 100 mile, 300, 500 and then I did at 1000. After that I will check it every oilchange or 1000 miles. My runs like a scolded ape, so I must have done sumthin right?
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03-07-2019, 09:10 AM | #13 |
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Stockport, Oh.
Posts: 1,442
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Adjust the valves before you even start it the first time. Mine took all of 10 minutes and you don't even have to remove the tank. And mine were screwed down tight with zero lash. I'd even recommend setting them a little loose until after the first few heat cycles. Jmo
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03-07-2019, 11:03 AM | #14 |
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Stockport, Oh.
Posts: 1,442
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I'm surprised folks are so wary about doing such a simple screw and locknut valve adjustment on a single cylinder 2 valve head. I think I learned that when I was about 11. Even before I went to MMI I was doing multi valve shim under bucket adjustments on inline 4s where you had to keep going over to the bench grinder because you didn't have all the proper shim sizes and you wanted to get your buddy back on the road.
The important thing is you wanna feel just a slight amount of drag on the feeler gauge as you pull it through and be sure your on the right stroke. And do your adjustment with the engine cold as the manufacturer intended. |
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03-07-2019, 11:11 AM | #15 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Quote:
I would gladly do 100 Hawks before doing this valve job again. That is the easy to reach rear cylinder head.
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Hawk Information and Resource guide: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=20331 2018 Hawk 250 - Full Mod list here. http://www.chinariders.net/showpost....62&postcount=1 2024 Royal Enfield Shotgun 650 https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34124 |
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