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Old 02-14-2022, 09:42 AM   #1
Nospark   Nospark is offline
 
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Chains

I've been trying to understand all the info in here about chains. My new TBR showed up and I'm doing my best to follow Magadan's resource guide for the Hawk 250. I don't want to spend a lot of $ on upgrades out of the gate but, do want to make use of the bike arriving largely disassembled for upgrades that I know I'll want like, carb jetting and front sprocket. I had flight time for a work trip. Since there's no way you're gonna get a lap top open on a flight in coach anymore, I read the TBR7 owners manual cover to cover out of boredom. I was surprised it talked about the bike having an o-ring chain. I understood this type to be an upgrade over non-O-ring? In any event, my question is..... If it is in fact an O-ring chain, is it still a good practice to remove it and soak it in heavy gear oil?


 
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Old 02-14-2022, 12:46 PM   #2
Ol,fart   Ol,fart is offline
 
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Yes. I use bar oil for chainsaws, its sticky and stays in the chain longer.
O-ring chains are good for dirt because the o rings keep dirt out but its also harder to get the oil in. Move the links around alot while it is soaking.
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Old 02-14-2022, 01:48 PM   #3
Nospark   Nospark is offline
 
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I happen to have some bar oil. I'll take your advice. Thx


 
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Old 02-14-2022, 02:53 PM   #4
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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O-ring chains don't need oil to get inside the O-ring. The O rings seal in the grease that the factory puts on the chain. The O-rings themselves can do with a little lubrication just to keep them from drying out and tearing from friction, but it doesn't take very much. I clean my O-ring chain and then use a dry lubricant and/or chain wax that is intended for o-ring chains. It's not as sticky as gear oil so it doesn't attract as much dirt.

For standard chains, yes the gear oil bath is a great idea. Or, a hot grease or paraffin wax bath. Since the rollers don't have lubrication sealed in with O-rings it is much more important that the lubricant gets into the rollers.
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Last edited by Megadan; 02-15-2022 at 02:30 AM.
 
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Old 02-14-2022, 08:12 PM   #5
Nospark   Nospark is offline
 
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Magadan, can you share specifics on the dry lube and chain wax brands you're using. I don't have either so, I might as well get what you're having good results with.


 
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Old 02-15-2022, 02:29 AM   #6
Megadan   Megadan is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nospark View Post
Magadan, can you share specifics on the dry lube and chain wax brands you're using. I don't have either so, I might as well get what you're having good results with.
This is the one I currently use. Muc-off dry lube.
https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/...sku_id=1297242

Another favorite of mine, but not a dry lube is PJ1 Blue Label that is designed as an O ring chain lube.
https://www.amazon.com/PJ1-1-08-Labe...000MYE398?th=1

As far as chain wax, If I do use it I tend to stick with Maxima brand as I have always had good luck with it.

I tend to cycle through different types of lubes to try new things and see if I can find something I like better.
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Old 02-14-2022, 08:26 PM   #7
KSSK   KSSK is offline
 
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I'm surprised to hear the TBR7 comes with a sealed chain. My more expensive Lifan X-Pect came with a plain chain. I just installed a JT x-ring chain that was $40.

Have you looked to confirm it really is sealed?


 
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:04 AM   #8
Mudflap   Mudflap is offline
 
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I run my Oring chains dry except for a tiny amount of gear oil on the Orings every couple thousand miles to keep them from cracking. A dry chain doesn't attract dirt and grit that wear out the rollers and sprockets.


 
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Old 02-15-2022, 06:36 AM   #9
Nospark   Nospark is offline
 
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As far as it coming with an O-ring chain, I am just going by what the manual says at this point. I will look at some pics on the web, educate myself what the two types look like, then confirm which is actually on the bike. It's certainly possible the manual could indicate O-ring when there isn't one on the bike. Out of town this week so will do that Sat.


 
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Old 02-15-2022, 09:35 AM   #10
TxTaoRider   TxTaoRider is offline
 
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My tbr7 came with a pretty gold chain, but it wasn't an o ring style.
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Old 02-22-2022, 10:33 AM   #11
Nospark   Nospark is offline
 
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I have to conclude the TBR7 manual that came with the bike is incorrect. The bike did not come with an O-ring chain. I have a chain length problem. I went to replace the front sprocket and learned I bought a nice new 15 tooth to swap out a nice new 15 tooth. Didn't seem like much of a difference so I ordered the 17 tooth I intended to buy the first time. I'm almost certain my new chain that came with the bike is not going to be long enough to use a 17 tooth front sprocket. The chain adjusters were already maxed out with the 15 tooth and of course were adjusted way too tight as delivered. If I go with the 17 tooth front, I'll have a chain project. I wanted to try just the 17 tooth front and see if I wanted to swap rear later. Now I'm thinking If I swap the rear from the 46 as delivered to the 42 I bought, the stock chain will likely fit. Will I be happy with that gearing?


 
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Old 02-22-2022, 11:01 AM   #12
Nospark   Nospark is offline
 
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The stamping on the stock chain is "CHOHO 428H" I'm pretty sure that's super high end professional racing grade and length. I'm ignorant about chains. Is 426 the number of lengths? What is the "H" designation?


 
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Old 02-22-2022, 11:13 AM   #13
Nospark   Nospark is offline
 
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OK, Got the chain thing figured out, Chain size 428 which dictates pitch and inner width. Nothing to do with # of links. Back to my question on gearing... I believe others are running 17 front & 42 rear on TBR7's which is why I ordered these sprocket sizes. Can anyone comment on 1st hand experience with this combo?


 
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Old 02-22-2022, 03:02 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nospark View Post
I believe others are running 17 front & 42 rear on TBR7's which is why I ordered these sprocket sizes. Can anyone comment on 1st hand experience with this combo?
Yeah, just ask any Hawk owner with a 17 front 45 rear sprocket. Since the TBR7, Storm, and Brozz use the smaller 17" rear wheel, the total tire diameter being smaller means it needs to be geared a tad higher at the sprocket (less teeth) to match the same overall drive ratio that a Hawk or other 18" rear wheel has.

Thus, a 42 or 43 rear sprocket on the 17" rear wheel and a 45 on the 18" wheel end up at the same overall drive ratio.

The 17/45 combination is extremely popular on the Hawks for a good reason. It's a great combination for bikes that see road use that also doesn't entirely kill power for light off road trail riding.
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Old 02-22-2022, 07:26 PM   #15
Nospark   Nospark is offline
 
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Well I got my 17 tooth sprocket on the front and as feared, the chain is too short keeping the stock 46 tooth rear. I'm going to go ahead and install the 42 tooth rear. It's an excuse to check rear axle and bearings. I also bought upgraded sprocket studs. I'll install those while I'm in this deep.
I'm perplexed now by trying to adjust the clutch cable but, that's a topic for a different thread.


 
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