Templar X 250

[Thumper]

All great points. Keep the throttle cable as straight as possible
I removed it, hang it, and spray silicon lube from.the top. Then with tank removed, find the straightest route with minimal bending to the slide tower. You may also have the slide set too high (idle adjustment knob).

Is it still not running. Sounded like it is since you mentioned high idle.

[cbusch0001]

No, bike won't fire up at all. Spark plug looks good and the gas is on. Not sure what to do at this point.

[Thumper]

Spark?, Fuel?

Your not exactly helping us help you. Kill switch? Checked wiring behind the headlight? So many unanswered questions.

Does the starter button turn the engine over? It seems that you are in over your head, and don't know what we need to know to help. I think you need some local help to diagnose this.

Here are some guidelines on charging system. Not exactly focused on your issue(s), but it could be anything based on your comment (it doesn't run)

Heroic effort on the part of GypsyR, but you just are not telling us what's wrong. "gas is on" means nothing...is the spark plug wet with gas? As I said, you can't expect help if you don't tell us what's wrong.

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34080

BTW- Is this a Templar X? Post photos of the issues.

[cbusch0001]

1. The bike didn't want to fire the first time I tried to start it. I almost ran the battery down trying to start it. It had fresh gas was on as in the petcock was not in the closed position. I checked and the gas was flowing. Choke was on
2. When it finally started up it struggled to run even after it was warm. I adjusted the carb until it would idle without dying. The RPM's were between 1800 and 2000.
3. We have had terrible weather here in KY, so I would start it up and let it warm up every day until there was a decent day to take it for the first ride. Bike seemed fine would start up and idled fine after it was warmed up.
3. First ride it started right up and idled fine after letting the choke off. I made it about 400 ft before it bogged down and died on me. I couldn't get the bike to start at all so I figured it was a carb issue. Wasn't sure. I pulled the hose off the carb and checked to make sure the gas was flowing and it was.
4. I bought the NIBBI PE 30 carb when I got the bike so I swapped it out. Checked the spark plug and it was black as in fouled and replaced it with a new one. After hooking every thing back up, it fired right up, but was running at about 6000 RPM. I adjusted the carb at that point to get the rpms down and then it died on me. I haven't been able to get it to fire since. I pulled the gas tank and carb tonight. It looks like I need to route the throttle cable over the stay maybe? It looks like it might be getting pinched. I checked the spark plug while I was at it, and it had a light brownish color to it which is what I've always been told to look for. I'll see what happens tomorrow.

[cbusch0001]

Yes I have spark, yes fuel is getting to the carb, and yes it tries to turn over.

[cbusch0001]

I apologize for not being more thorough earlier, but I got busy at work and I am just now getting a chance to get on here to explain in more detail. I am a Mechanical Engineer, and I design equipment for Toyota. I work a lot of hours, and between my job and all the snow and ice we have had, I haven't had much time to work on this bike. This is not my first bike, but it is my first Chinese made bike. I haven't come across any posts with the problems I have been having. My guess is at first maybe the choke cable needed to be adjusted and was running rich hence the fouled spark plug? There are a lot of posts on here and videos on YouTube of people complaining about the stock carb. The NIBBI carb seems to be a little taller and I'm assuming the throttle cable was getting bound up causing it to Rev out? I'll adjust both of those tomorrow and see what happens.

[Thumper]

When the throttle cable is routed with minimal bending, it should snap back instantly when you twist and release it. It makes a solid clunk when the slide drops closed. If it resists closing at all, slowly closing, not reaching the closed position freely, something is wrong.

The choke can be sticky as well. You can lube the cable with silicon spray, and it too needs to be routed as straight as possible.
Also, if you have a #42 pilot jet (for the Youall), it should be close, but you may need to adjust the airscrew. This is a fine adjustment that primarily affects the pilot circuit (idle), but believe me, it can screw up the transition to needle (midrange). On the Nibbi, start in the middle clip position.

Unless the main jet is way way off, you should be able to get the transition to midrange by selecting the right pilot jet, adjusting the airscrew and setting the needle height.

You are probably below 1000 feet so the settings I recommend for the original smoothbore youall carb in the Templar resource guide should work. I think that's a #42 pilot and #125 main, with about 1mm needle shim. I like that original carb. It's a perfect match for this engine. You just have to grind off the heads of the two break-off screws to get the bowl off, and drill the cap off the airscrew.

We still run that Youall carb on my son's X. It's a good carb. I've never installed a new carb, and I haven't tried Nibbi. Never needed to.

[GypsyR]

Still sounds like to me the throttle slide is installed in the carburetor incorrectly. When you do that the throttle will never close. You could pull the carb inlet boot and actually see if that is the case. (It's a very common thing to happen.)
Also it would be terribly hard to start like that when cold. The choke probably isn't able to enrichen the mixture enough to light off when the throttle is stuck at 3/4 open.

[cbusch0001]

I'm not understanding how the slide could be installed incorrectly, it only goes in one way?

I was able to disassemble the stock carb. The air screw was turned all the way in. I had the idle screw 1 turn out.

[Bruces]

On a round slide carb it does only go one way “properly” ,but it is possible to turn it 180 out and it will go in but only partially leading to a stuck open slide ,and a screaming idle .It happens all the time .

[GypsyR]

Study on the notches in the slide. Study the barrel of the carburetor wher ethe slide goes. THEN you will understand. The slide will pop right in either way but the wrong way around it will never close or have full travel.

[cbusch0001]

Originally Posted by GypsyR

Not me. Some of my plastics needed a little tweaking and convincing to fit nicely. I'm failry practiced at that sort of thing though and had no real issues. The body screws are pretty easily stripped if you aren't careful. Since the factory never put anything in them it's a fair bet THEY didn't strip them.

All of the hardware for the plastics came pre-installed in their respective holes from the factory. The plastics were bagged and either zip-tied or taped to the frame of the shipping crate. When I removed that bolt it was obviously cross-threaded. I have some ideas on how to fix the insert so it shouldn't be a big deal. The threaded hole for the rear plastic is a different story. I would imagine the manufacturer utilizes a jig of some sort to build the frames, so I am not sure how the hole is so far off. I am going to have to drill and tap a new hole in the frame.

Originally Posted by GypsyR

Not sure how you made it 400 feet and died. AND were not able to get into neutral. Loose battery cable? Or some other loose wire keeping the neutral indicator from lighting up maybe. An experienced rider can get a shifter into neutral without the light. The main reason people go a short distance and die is that they forgot to turn the gas on.

I was not trying to use the light to find neutral. The shifter wouldn't physically move. I held the clutch in and pushed the bike back to the house. I'm not sure what happened, but I am now able to move the shifter. The gas was on, and I don't believe I have any wiring/battery issues as the bike still tried to fire when I pressed the button. The start button was sticking a little so I loosened the screw at the bottom of the enclosure which fixed that issue.

Originally Posted by GypsyR

Changing to a Nibbi is no bad thing but I would have gottent he bike running correctly and then swapped carburetors. But OK. Exremely high idle and the throttle not working means either when you installed the carburetor you got the slide in wrong. You have to remove the carb top and turn the slide so it seats correctly. A common newbie mistake. Another thing that can happen is the throttle cable can be hanging up. After swapping a Nibbi onto mine I noticed it would rev up a bit when I turned hard left. Meaning the cable was binding. I ended up pulling the tank off and figuring a different way to run the throttle cable that allowed it a bit more slack.

I have the tank off, and plan on re-routing the cables to eliminate any binding. I am also going to go back to the stock carb. I'll see what happens when I get it all put back together. Thanks for the advice.

[cbusch0001]

Originally Posted by GypsyR

Study on the notches in the slide. Study the barrel of the carburetor wher ethe slide goes. THEN you will understand. The slide will pop right in either way but the wrong way around it will never close or have full travel.

I understand the way the slide goes in. If I had it 180 off, I would not have been able to put the cap on. I have both carbs off the bike and in my hand. It is the same with both carbs. When I installed the NIBBI I made sure to align the slit in the slide to the guides inside the carb.

[Thumper]

On the shifter issue... check to make sure that the clutch is getting engaged fully (adjustment at the lever). I know it wasn't running, but if the engine is pushing on the gearbox, the shifter will not move. This can happen when the engine is not running if the bike is on a hill in gear, engine stopped. You have to remove the stress from the drivetrain to shift. That may explain it. On level ground, push the bike forward and back in gear, then between, and it should shift, while gently rolling, to the next gear, or neutral. THe dogs must line up in the transmission, that's while gently roll....

[GypsyR]

"I understand the way the slide goes in. If I had it 180 off, I would not have been able to put the cap on." Having personally mistakenly put the slide in my Nibbi 180 degrees off (even though I know better) AND having put the cap back on I can attest that the above conjecture is not true.

What Thumper said about the shifter is very true. I've bumped MANY a bike back and forth to let the shifter release. I don't even have to think about it when I do it these days. It's just muscle memory.

You can buy a rethreading tap and die kit. They are a slick way to recover many damaged threads. The average decent set runs about $60 so may not be worth it to you for just one threaded hole. Handy to have around every little once in a while though. There are a lot of these sets around but I'm wiling to swear they are the exact same tools just in different packages so if you find a better price...https://www.amazon.com/TOMMARS-49-Pi...14E&gQT=1&th=1

I and a couple of others have run into the sticky starter switch. Though it galls me to purposely loosen a fastener on the bike it certainly seems to be the fix.

As for a bolt hole in the wrong place, well, no one is perfect.
A couple of my plastics had to be wrestled into submission. But they weren't too terribly far off. As I recall I used a small philips screwdriver to line up the holes and then was able to hold everything in place to get the screw in. And some took more than one try, an extra pair of hands would have helped I'm sure.