Has anyone replaced the air filter housing with a pod filter?

ChopperCharles · 03-14-2022, 05:48 PM

This is why I'm going to a pod filter. I have bottomed the bike three or four times since I removed my raise-up kit, and when I inspected the airbox yesterday I found it was compromised.

One half of the case is split and no longer sealing. Plus the screw threads are showing.

Raising my bike fixed the contact problem, but left me with a far more dangerous problem. At or near 70mph actual, the bike starts to wobble and weave. I first noticed a little instability in the bike after I removed the stock hard luggage and all the associated bracketry. But raising the rear definitely exacerbated that. It makes sense, the rear is over an inch taller than it would be with the 15" rim the bike was designed for. An extra .75" on top of that was too much. With the stock parts back on the bike, I'm back to the pre-wobble state, where there's just slight instability at high speed in crosswinds. And I think switching to a larger front tire will fix that.

But in the meantime, I have no airbox. The intake manifold is an odd 43mm, but 1 3/4 is just over 44mm, so I ordered a 1.75" silicone tube, an adapter, and a 1.75" foam air filter. I'm going to tuck the air filter up under the left side cover, and build a partial airbox around it using a PVC tube that's at least an inch larger in diameter than the new foam filter. I want to keep the water out as much as possible when doing creek crossings. I'm also going to extend the plastic fender under the bike with a mud flap, and put a hugger on the swingarm, all to prevent dirt from being flung forward. This is because the airbox acted as an inner fender.

I looked at the amount of work to shorten the airbox front to back, and it would have taken way too much work and time, and a glued airbox is still not going to stay airtight forever, it's no longer structurally sound no matter how much epoxy you lather over it. Plastic welding might work, but the plastic welding kit costs more than the parts I bought to build a "cold air intake" using a name-brand UNI foam filter no less.

I now have significant room under the seat, which I may convert to tool storage. (So long as I leave the 8mm socket and ratchet somewhere else. I could also maybe put a PVC storage tube under there which would be accessible from the wheel well. I'll toy around with it a bit once I have the air filter assembled (waiting on parts)

Charles.

03-14-2022, 05:48 PM	#29
ChopperCharles Join Date: Feb 2018 Location: RDU, NC Posts: 677	This is why I'm going to a pod filter. I have bottomed the bike three or four times since I removed my raise-up kit, and when I inspected the airbox yesterday I found it was compromised. One half of the case is split and no longer sealing. Plus the screw threads are showing. Raising my bike fixed the contact problem, but left me with a far more dangerous problem. At or near 70mph actual, the bike starts to wobble and weave. I first noticed a little instability in the bike after I removed the stock hard luggage and all the associated bracketry. But raising the rear definitely exacerbated that. It makes sense, the rear is over an inch taller than it would be with the 15" rim the bike was designed for. An extra .75" on top of that was too much. With the stock parts back on the bike, I'm back to the pre-wobble state, where there's just slight instability at high speed in crosswinds. And I think switching to a larger front tire will fix that. But in the meantime, I have no airbox. The intake manifold is an odd 43mm, but 1 3/4 is just over 44mm, so I ordered a 1.75" silicone tube, an adapter, and a 1.75" foam air filter. I'm going to tuck the air filter up under the left side cover, and build a partial airbox around it using a PVC tube that's at least an inch larger in diameter than the new foam filter. I want to keep the water out as much as possible when doing creek crossings. I'm also going to extend the plastic fender under the bike with a mud flap, and put a hugger on the swingarm, all to prevent dirt from being flung forward. This is because the airbox acted as an inner fender. I looked at the amount of work to shorten the airbox front to back, and it would have taken way too much work and time, and a glued airbox is still not going to stay airtight forever, it's no longer structurally sound no matter how much epoxy you lather over it. Plastic welding might work, but the plastic welding kit costs more than the parts I bought to build a "cold air intake" using a name-brand UNI foam filter no less. I now have significant room under the seat, which I may convert to tool storage. (So long as I leave the 8mm socket and ratchet somewhere else. I could also maybe put a PVC storage tube under there which would be accessible from the wheel well. I'll toy around with it a bit once I have the air filter assembled (waiting on parts) Charles.
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