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Old 07-09-2011, 06:13 PM   #1
bennnn   bennnn is offline
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Posts: 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonbloodsflow
Quote:
Originally Posted by bennnn
But Banditz has me thinking, a short hmm. The guy I got it from had the fuse out of it when I went to go check it out, he put it in before he started it. I have just left it in, if there was a short he knew about but never bothered to find, could that be why he had the fuse out?
It hasn't blown any fuses with you? I can't think of any reason to keep the fuse out other than pretty much what you already said. That would lead me to believe there is probably a known short and thus previous blown fuses.

You really need a meter to check DC voltage on the battery and charging circuit, also to test for grounds. It could be as simple as one of your wires/connections grounding itself out on the bike or being loose. If you can find the time you should check and clean all of the connections, but I'd meter the battery and stuff like as been mentioned and see if it's outputting the right voltage. If not... and you've already checked all of your connections, I'd check your stator(3 phase generator)

Find the stator connector, usually 3 yellow or white wires and switch your meter to Ohms since you're taking a resistance reading. You want to check the reading across all 3 wires, 2 wires at a time, so you'll essential be taking 3 different readings. They should all be the same, what they read can vary depending on the stator. If that meters out okay then you'll want to take a an AC voltage reading of the stator because it could still be bad.

Switch your meter to AC voltage and start the bike, rev it up to about 5k rpms, it helps to have a hand. Take another reading on all 3 legs, two at a time again, they should all be the same and probably shouldn't be under 50volts. Again that can vary depending on the stator. I think my Qlinks output was like 70volts at that rpm.

If all of that meters out okay then the next step I believe is checking the regulator/rectifier which is a diode test. Probably a little more difficult and is easier with an analog meter. I highly doubt your rectifier is bad but it's a possibility.

There's some good info on all of this in some of the links here, just incase I butchered that info and it doesn't make sense, I'll link them below :P But that should give you an idea on where to start so you aren't just checking one thing at a time and running back to the forums asking where to go from here.

It's important to make sure your battery is 100% charged and okay before you do any of this. If you aren't entirely sure you should take it to an auto place and have them do a load test on it. It's possible to have a bad battery that reads the correct voltage but is bad under load. Again, check your connections too. Electrical trouble shooting sucks in general. Lots of things can short out, sockets/bulbs, relays, wires etc...

http://www.4strokes.com/tech/fault_find.pdf
http://www.hooperimports.com/showpages.asp?pid=1013
http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/pdfs/...P-PMG-&-RR.pdf
Going out to start it a few times while writing that had me post it right after yours, thanks for the good info. I am going to go look at something,


 
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