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#46 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Posts: 4,880
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Hey Ambassador, thanks for the tips, yeah mine came from a shop, the guy knows what he's doing so it should be good anyways, but I already had that off and greased up the speedo cable which was already lubricated, and the unit at the front axle seemed fine, I didn't dissasemble it but I had it apart... Also I've loctite a few bolts (axle, footpegs, anything I've had off) and checked the rest, I also check them regularily... Got the wheel all seated properly now too
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#47 |
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Toronto Ontario Canada
Posts: 2,585
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If your bike comes with stickers that are really hard to get off, Ambasador has a pic of my bike with sticker on the gas tank. Would not come off. Use a hair dryer and peel with finger nail. 30 seconds tops. The glue from stickers comes right off with butter. I think wd40 works too.
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#48 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Posts: 4,880
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I use dirt grease and wax remover, works great.
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#49 |
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Show Low Arizona
Posts: 2,889
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OK, I keep reading about moving the needle down in the carb..What exactly will I gain by doing that? More power, Or more top speed?
I live at 7000 ft ASL..Will that matter? And if there is a thread on this already please point me in the rigtht direction..Thanks. Oh and my labels will not come off, They clearcoated over them ![]() Looks like it's time to sand the bike down
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<br />2001 Suzuki DR200SE<br />1997 Suzuki RM250 YIKES<br />1995 Yamaha Breeze 125 daughters<br />1991 Honda XR80r Restored<br />maybe a 2003 Yamaha TTR90 |
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#50 |
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: COLUMBIA, SC
Posts: 973
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__________________
2008 Jonway MC-70-150 2007 Roketa DB-07B (RSM-200E) 2006 Roketa DB-07A (RSX-200E) 1995 Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000) |
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#51 |
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 35
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Air Filter Location
I’m sure this has been asked an answered, but I can’t find it anywhere. I know I need to oil my air filter, but I don’t know where it is. Can someone point me to a thread or better yet a picture, and instructions for this? Sorry, I’m still a big newbie, but learning a lot. (I have a Roketa DB-07)
Thanks for the help. |
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#52 |
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Altamont, Kansas
Posts: 15,103
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Most of the time under the sidecover or seat. Find the carburetor and then look at the attached box opposite of engine. The filter is in there.
Allen
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You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone. |
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#53 |
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 35
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katoranger
thanks, found it and done! John |
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#54 |
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 8
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Working out the bugs
I have been fixing little things on my 07 Lifan GY-5, most recently it was the front disk brake pads. The front pads would drag on the rotor causing vibration and unpleasant noise. When I would yank hard on the front brake it would stop for a while. So I used anti squeal compound (more or less glue) on the back of the pad to stick it to the brake piston. I also replaced the stock caliper bolts with new ones from the hardware store. The oem bolts were very crappy and I am surprized that these bolts did not strip the aluminium threads tapped in the caliper. Brake works great now, motor is breaking in nice and I am getting 100 mpg!
Just added a 2nd bike to the fleet a Honda 2001 xr650l $525 salvage title flood bike. Runs good after flushing out motor, carb may need rebuild. ![]() |
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#55 |
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Denver
Posts: 35
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Turn signal bulbs
I found the rear turn signals on my LF200gy-5 almost invisible during daylight hours and replaced the smallish bulbs with standard 1156 Sylvania long life bulbs, both front and back. Made a huge difference for $1.75 per bulb.
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#56 |
I think a proper break-in procedure should be added to the list.
http://www.ntnoa.org/enginebreakin.htm They have a good one. I think one of the problems that many people have with these bikes is that they just start riding them after they get them. They don't have any concern for what is necessary to get the engine running at it's best. A correct break-in could help solve many of the issues these bikes have. |
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#57 |
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Catskill Mnts NY
Posts: 85
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BEFORE you ride, check and REMOVE exess brake fluid from your disk brake resivoirs!! Both my GY5 and ATV were completely filled. After a few minutes riding, the petal "play" disappeared and I could smell the disk cooking!! :oops: You have to have air space in the resivoir.
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#58 |
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
Posts: 12
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Initial Assembly Checklist
Regarding the Initial Checklist - I've seen a couple threads that mention doing a good initial lube job on the clutch cable. Anyone concur or have additional comment?
I'm new to the Forum and am about to receive my 1st bike - 200cc Hi-Bird DS. I've appreciated all the helpful info and look forward to contributing. My only other enduro frame of reference is an 85 Honda XL 250 - had it in High School...GREAT bike, but for the $$ I'm excited to see what China will do to the motorcycle industry in the US - seems to be gaining momentum. Cheers! |
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#60 |
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: GreenRiver, Utah, ( 4x4 capitol of Utah )
Posts: 95
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I agree !!! Without hesitation you should lube all of the cables as part of the initial setup/prep.
I did this for my wifes bike but did not do it for mine and was deffinately surprised at the difference it made. Her cables including the clutch were much smoother and easier to pull than mine.
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Freedom is not free!!! But it is worth fighting for! Please give your prayers to our men and women that serve to keep our freedoms free. |
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