Hawk DLX, 1300 mi., few issues

[Britt]

I just passed 1,300 miles on my Hawk 250 DLX last week and just recently noticed two issues--the first issues I've had with it.

1. I just recently began having symptoms of a problematic ignition switch. Every now and then the bike will die for a fraction of a second while I'm riding it, and I can force it to die by wiggling the key a certain way. When I wiggle the key, the cluster goes dark and then restarts.
2. I've also just recently noticed a little dark oil wetting the cooling fin where the cylinder joins the lower case.

Questions:

1. Does anyone know of a good quality ignition switch that would be a drop-in replacement? Should I just go buy the TT250 set from CSC?
2. If I split the engine and replace the gasket (there is a gasket, right?), is there a big-bore kit that would be worth installing? What is the stock bore diameter (I saw 65.5 listed somewhere, and 67 on the kits. Is one the piston and the other the sleeve, or are these 67mm kits actually bigger than stock?), and while it's apart, is there any machining I could have a shop do that would be recommended?

Thanks!

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Britt

I just passed 1,300 miles on my Hawk 250 DLX last week and just recently noticed two issues--the first issues I've had with it.

1. I just recently began having symptoms of a problematic ignition switch. Every now and then the bike will die for a fraction of a second while I'm riding it, and I can force it to die by wiggling the key a certain way. When I wiggle the key, the cluster goes dark and then restarts.
2. I've also just recently noticed a little dark oil wetting the cooling fin where the cylinder joins the lower case.

Questions:

1. Does anyone know of a good quality ignition switch that would be a drop-in replacement? Should I just go buy the TT250 set from CSC?
2. If I split the engine and replace the gasket (there is a gasket, right?), is there a big-bore kit that would be worth installing? What is the stock bore diameter (I saw 65.5 listed somewhere, and 67 on the kits. Is one the piston and the other the sleeve, or are these 67mm kits actually bigger than stock?), and while it's apart, is there any machining I could have a shop do that would be recommended?

Thanks!

The TT250 switch would be a good option, assuming it is the ignition cylinder.

These engines are a 67mm bore stock.

There are no big bore "kits" out there. The closest you get is a CG300 Cylinder kit, which does exist with all gaskets, piston, etc. The CG300 has a 70mm bore, which when installed on a CG250, makes an actual 249cc engine. It does, however require machine work to actually be fitted to the engine.

If all you want to do is stop the leak, then get a base gasket and a head gasket set. Those gaskets on these engines are super easy to replace.

[Britt]

Originally Posted by Megadan

...
There are no big bore "kits" out there. The closest you get is a CG300 Cylinder kit, which does exist with all gaskets, piston, etc. The CG300 has a 70mm bore, which when installed on a CG250, makes an actual 249cc engine. It does, however require machine work to actually be fitted to the engine.
....

Is it just turning down the OD of the sleeve and then bolt it up, or are other parts/machining needed?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Britt

Is it just turning down the OD of the sleeve and then bolt it up, or are other parts/machining needed?

Mainly just turning down the OD of the cylinder sleeve protrusion at the base to the same.OD as the 250cyl. I just wanted to make that point clear for others that might read the thread because misinformation is rampant and abundant.

[zero_dgz]

Re: Your ignition switch. Before dropping any coin on replacing it, I would hose it down thoroughly with electrical contact cleaner. If that does not do it, take it out and inspect the solder points on the bottom. Ensure that none are loose or cracked, and if they are you can resolve that by poking them with a soldering iron to remelt them. I've never in my life met an ignition cylinder with flaky electrical contact that could not be cured.


Replacing the cylinder also entails replacing your gas cap and helmet lock, which I see the CSC set comes with but it's still an extra pain. You're going to have to take the cylinder out anyway, so you may as well clean and inspect it first.

[Britt]

Originally Posted by zero_dgz

Before dropping any coin on replacing it, I would hose it down thoroughly with electrical contact cleaner. ...

Boom. That did the trick. Last week I flooded the key hole with contact cleaner and exercised the key about 20 times. I haven't had a cut-out since.