lifan 200gy battery drain issues... noob needs help, again.

[doogin]

Hi folks,

this is connected to an earlier noob post by me. I replaced the battery in my Lifan along with the solenoid and for about a week or so things were perfect... starting no problem. Over the past couple of days the starting has become a bit more labored until it was impossible to start the bike... didn't have enough juice to turn over. Push started no problem.

When I purchased the bike the battery was dead and thought it was cause it was just old. It really could be anything.

Question. What keeps the battery charged? I'm assuming there an alternator on these bikes... if so how do I locate it (no wrench experience here, at all) and what does it look like? I also noticed some wires melted cause they were resting on the head for a bit. I isolated the wires with elec tape for sparking issues (under the tank) but haven't replace the group and don't know what they go to.

Second question... how do you know when it's time to buy new break pads? And what do you do if you think the front break rotor is warped (it makes an un-even squeek as the tire rolls forward. I've taken it apart, sanded the pads a bit and did the Lifan fix, cutting the part that supposedly overhangs the rotor. If I engage the front break a quarter of the way the squeekin stops.

thanks!

[FastDoc]

OK, here we go. Good questions.

Bikes have a stator, which functions like an alternator. It is under the left side engine cover. Unless it has a cooked or damaged wire, it usually is reliable and needs no maintenence.

The ChinaBike batteries tend to be crappy and only last a year or two. If it was ever discharged (run flat) it will be sulfated and not hold a charge well. Bring your battery to Sears or a bike shop and match it up with one the same size with the + and - terminals in the same place. Charge the new battery (trickle charger) before installing it to get the best long term service life out of it.

It would probably take years and tens of thousands of miles to wear out the break pads. They sometimes just squeak. My Lifanoid did, despipe putting Break Quiet on the backs of the pads, cleaning them, and doing the hacksaw trick. I just ignored it.

Disks do warp, but I don't think one of these bikes could go fast enough to generate enough heat to damage a rotor.

[stilkikin]

First thing I would do is check fuses. I seem to remember hacking one out when I removed my charging system the other day. If I remember right it was on the small red lead from the + side of the battery. Make sure all connections are tight and not corroded. Vaseline or dielectric grease are your friends. Your alternator is called a stator on a bike. If your sitting on the bike it will be under the left sidecover above the oil drain and screen.

Can't help ya with the brakes.

Second thought...your battery probably would have been dead sooner than a week if it was a fuse. Disreguard me.

[TeamCheap]

Repair the damaged wires.

OK I gotta ask :
where is the battery located :?:

Can you post a picture of the battery/battery area. (I have a hunch)

[FastDoc]

Under left rear side panel, I think, on your bike.

[FastDoc]

The only tip you need to know about removing the battery is always remove the negative cable first, and when installing the new battery always connect the negative cable last.

[SpudRider]

The damaged wires might be coming from your stator to your regulator/rectifier. If so, your stator will be unable to charge your battery. Check your battery voltage with the engine off; then check the voltage again with the engine running. If the stator, and its wires to the regulator are in good condition, the voltage reading should increase when the engine is running.

Spud

[FastDoc]

Good point, Spud. I forgot to mention that. A poor man's test is to observe headlight brightness, it should be a little brighter when you rev the bike from idle at night.

[Wild_Alaskan]

another thing that can make the brakes make a loud vibrating sound is bad front wheel bearings, Especially if it vibrates diffirently after every landing.

[doogin]

hey folks,

thanks for the replies... also, I can't access the reply box in Firefox 3.5.8

on to the bike.

The battery was replaced. I did it, I also replaced the solenoid and everything worked perfect for a week. And I attached it correctly doin the positive first thing.

I have no lights. And no illumination for the speedo/tach. But I do have the neutral/gear indicator working.

There is a bundle of wires that had been routed under the tank and against one of the frame tubes. This slid down and eventually rested on the engine, melting through and destroying at least one wire(more?) in the bunch. I'm assuming the headlight issue has to do with this as the speedo tach light is also effected.

can someone describe the rectifier thing? and where those wires come out from the sator... maybe I can trace them up to that bundle that got fried. got to get me a voltage meter thing.

Still waiting on the kick start arm I busted off so without a push this beast aint gonna start. I would like to leave this electrical stuff to a more experienced person. Can you get those wires anywhere? Are they standard for motos etc.? I'm in Mexico.

Brakes: This is a weird thing. They make sound at lower speeds, really effin annoying, so much that I try and ride with the front break engaged which is sorta dangerous. At higher speeds I dont hear it as much.

I'll try and post some pics tomorrow or wednesday... I'm uber busy at them moment.

thanks again for all the help, the site is great!

[TeamCheap]

AHH OK dragging the brakes will cause them to heat up and possibly warp the disc.

12V automotive wire would work to repair the burnt up wires.It would be good to match up the wire gauge/size but not critical.

I'd cut and solder and heat shrink then tape the repair.
You can use crimp connections but I hate those unless they are the ones with built in heat shrink.

[doogin]

I checked the wires coming out of the sator area (lower left side of the engine) and sure enough the bundle that got burnt comes from there. I will replace them or have a mechanic do it... I really need the light working although when it was working, it was shining up in the trees rather than the road! 8O

As for the rotor... if you can warp it on a 4 hour trip then perhaps it's actually warped. I never took anything more than that when riding.

thanks for the help

oh, and I've only just started draggin the brake and it's usually at around 3mph... the squeal is worse at slow speeds and I can't stand it

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by doogin

I checked the wires coming out of the sator area (lower left side of the engine) and sure enough the bundle that got burnt comes from there. I will replace them or have a mechanic do it... I really need the light working although when it was working, it was shining up in the trees rather than the road! 8O

As for the rotor... if you can warp it on a 4 hour trip then perhaps it's actually warped. I never took anything more than that when riding.

thanks for the help

I'm glad you found the charging problem. I also encourage you to remove your brake rotor, and check to see if it is warped. Place the rotor on a flat surface, such as a table, an examine it from the side. If the rotor is warped, you can easily get a replacement. Riding with the brake applied for periods of time much less than 4 hours can warp the brake rotor.

Spud

[doogin]

Well... as I know very little about any of this it may be a bit optimistic to say I found the problem... It's a good start though! I edited my earlier post to say that I just started pullin the front brake a bit and certainly not for more than a couple hundred yards... If I engage the brake lever enough times, and I'm lucky, I occasionally get a squeal free ride, till I have to use the brake again.

[FastDoc]

Does the front brake drag? If you put the bike on the side stand and pull it to the left so the front tire is in the air. See if the front tire spins freely. do this before and after pulling the front brake lever and let us know what happens.