Weldangrind's New TW200 Billy Goat

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I looked at the harness while the cover was off, but that's it. It's completing the circuit based on gear selector position, so that tells me the sender is intact. I wonder if it's just because I'm using an LED.

I'll be pulling the cover back off when my new sprockets arrive, so I'll have another look then. I'll also check with a test light and a meter to see if the same behaviour exists.

I am using LEDs for all my indicator lights, including the neutral light, Weld. I have never before heard of this phenomenon. Why would the neutral light work in reverse? :?: I am interested to learn the solution to this problem.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

I took the time to set the timing chain today; it was way off! You can see the tensioner rod within the adjuster, and that's after I set it. The spec is that the rod should be flush with the surface or up to 0.5mm below; I set it flush and then sunk it a bit. I couldn't figure out how to measure it, since my vernier calipers wouldn't clear the airbox. That rod was easily 10mm below the surface before I adjusted it. I can't believe it ran like that, but it sure explains the racket.

[Weldangrind]

It's new parts day! I popped across the border and retrieved my Bikebandit shipment this afternoon, and managed to get the sprockets replaced. The six bolts that held the rear sprocket on were all bent (likely from the same chain mishap that windowed the countershaft cover), so I picked up some new stainless bolts and nyloc nuts.

This is a comparison between the new JT 14 tooth sprocket and the "custom" 13 tooth that was on it.



I still have the new chain, grips, levers and throttle tube to install. hopefully tomorrow.

[Weldangrind]

I'm trying to figure out how many kilometres are on this bike. The brakes have lots of material left on them, and the front wheel had never been off before. The front tire is more than half worn, but it's the original. Take a look at the chain slider in these pics; it looks like it doesn't have many hours on it. What is your guess? Mine is 15,000km or 9300 miles.

[Weldangrind]

I drained the oil out again today after running it for another 20 minutes. It looks much better this time, although it still had a little chocolate colour in it. Hopefully I'm seeing the results of condensation that are being flushed out.



It sounds much better with the timing chain adjustment. Click on the pic for the short video. You'll see the small 4.5a battery that's doing the job.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

It's new parts day! I popped across the border and retrieved my Bikebandit shipment this afternoon, and managed to get the sprockets replaced. The six bolts that held the rear sprocket on were all bent (likely from the same chain mishap that windowed the countershaft cover), so I picked up some new stainless bolts and nyloc nuts.

This is a comparison between the new JT 14 tooth sprocket and the "custom" 13 tooth that was on it...

I still have the new chain, grips, levers and throttle tube to install. hopefully tomorrow.

I think your "custom" C/S sprocket was slightly worn, Weld. 8O I'm glad you replaced it!

Spud

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I'm trying to figure out how many kilometres are on this bike. The brakes have lots of material left on them, and the front wheel had never been off before. The front tire is more than half worn, but it's the original. Take a look at the chain slider in these pics; it looks like it doesn't have many hours on it. What is your guess? Mine is 15,000km or 9300 miles.

The Yamaha chain slider doesn't wear very much, Weld. If the C/S sprocket is original, and I bet it is, I would guess your bike has been ridden about 5,500 miles.

Spud

[Weldangrind]

Wow! Perhaps it has even fewer miles than I thought. It start easily and runs well now, although the needle and seat leak has returned. Time for carb parts.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

I drained the oil out again today after running it for another 20 minutes. It looks much better this time, although it still had a little chocolate colour in it. Hopefully I'm seeing the results of condensation that are being flushed out.

It sounds much better with the timing chain adjustment. Click on the pic for the short video. You'll see the small 4.5a battery that's doing the job.

The small battery does an excellent job starting the bike. The engine sounds good! Also, the Zongshen fuel tank looks great on your TW200. During the video I heard the fuel tank whisper, "I want to return to the mountains of Idaho for a China Riders Northwest Ride!" :P

Spud

[Weldangrind]

I hadn't thought of that. If we move forward with a ride in Idaho some day, it will be returning to the homeland.

The battery is only good for a few starts, and then it begins to struggle. That's ok, because my old TW has a kicker.

[MICRider]

That does sound much better! I'm guessing low mileage as well, I think you got a steal of a deal on that one! I see a new clutch cable in the pics as well... Hmmm, new clutch cable and chain and sprockets, genuine Zong tank and she's purring like a kitten, have you taken it for a spin yet? 8)

[Weldangrind]

I'm getting excited about the first spin. I intend to put the chain, throttle tube, grips and levers on today. I'll go get insurance and a plate after that.

I'm taking it slow and letting my back be the boss, so we'll see how much actual progress I make.

[Weldangrind]

Man, I really struggled with the wiring mess. Turns out, using a blue LED flashlight in low light, trying to identify wire colours while being red-green deficient creates issues. :? Upon seeing the colours in the sunlight, I found my mistakes.

Once I cleared that up, I had a functional high beam indicator and neutral light, but the turn signal would only light up with either the left or the right signal, depending upon which way I plugged it in. I couldn't figure out how to get it to work for both left and right.

I searched Spud's dual sport posts for clues, and found that the link to a TW forum was dead. I visited another TW forum and searched for LED lighting, and found a brief discussion that was similar to Spud's report, whci was to solder diodes in each power wire, so that there would be no cross-feed.

That wasn't the problem I was having. I'm not using LED signals in the front, but I am using an LED indicator. As the name implies, it's a light emitting diode, which means that it will only allow current to pass in one direction. The circuit is such that one wire from each signal feeds the indicator, and it's designed for an incandescent bulb.

I did some further reading on the TW forum, and that's when the answer jumped out at me. I needed to make a Y-bridge diode, and connect the LED to ground on one terminal, so that's what I did. The power wires from each signal now each travel through a diode, then they connect to the same terminal on the diode. The remaining terminal is connected to ground. Voila:



The indicator now properly blinks with either the left or right signal, as it should.

[Weldangrind]

I mentioned in an earlier post that forum member Sucksqueezebangblow whipped up a quick dash for me, until I figure out how big my new speedometer will be.

Here it is after I laid out the ignition hole:



I then drilled the holes for the lights and painted it. I sliced a piece of tubing and placed that around the bottom radius, so the wires and cables that pass through don't get cut on the sheet metal. Here's a shot with the lights and ignition installed:



I bundled up the wiring harness the best I could, but I think I'll try to wrap some inner tube around it to further protect it.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

...the turn signal would only light up with either the left or the right signal, depending upon which way I plugged it in. I couldn't figure out how to get it to work for both left and right.

I searched Spud's dual sport posts for clues, and found that the link to a TW forum was dead. I visited another TW forum and searched for LED lighting, and found a brief discussion that was similar to Spud's report, whci was to solder diodes in each power wire, so that there would be no cross-feed...

...I did some further reading on the TW forum, and that's when the answer jumped out at me. I needed to make a Y-bridge diode, and connect the LED to ground on one terminal, so that's what I did. The power wires from each signal now each travel through a diode, then they connect to the same terminal on the diode. The remaining terminal is connected to ground...

Good for you, Weld! However, all you needed to do was ask. :P



The turn signal indicator light in the TW200 uses each side of the turn signal system as a ground for the other side. :roll: Therefore, if you are using LED turn signals, you must remove the turn signal indicator bulb for the LED turn signals to work. If you wish to retain the turn signal indicator bulb, you can install the Kuryakyn Diode Kit.



http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/719/Diode-Kit

If you wish, you can also make your own diode kit. Merely solder diodes into both the orange and sky blue wires leading to the indicator bulb, and connect another wire to ground, as shown in the following diagram.



When I performed this modification on my Zong, I used 1N4004 diodes I purchased from Radio Shack. :



You can purchase a 2-pack of these diodes for $1.19, or you can buy a 25-pack of mixed diodes for $2.99.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...uctId=2036270#
http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...LAID=107592762



If you have an LED flasher relay installed, your LED turn signals will work as soon as you remove the turn signal indicator bulb. Removing the indicator bulb breaks the bleed over circuit to the turn signals on the opposite side. Therefore, removing the turn signal indicator bulb will allow you to use your LED turn signals. However, your turn signal indicator will not work with LED turn signals unless you solder the diodes into the wires as I described.

Spud