Gonna try to run the stock Hawk carb

[OneLeggedRider]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Amazing how different they run when they arent so choked up on fuel lol.

Well you did read the part about the fuel screw being fully seated right? I think tomorrow (when it will be 40°) I'm gonna try it with another 1/4 turn out. No need in trying to get it perfect until I get the jets, and probably have to do it again when it's broke in.

[NzBrakelathes]

What do the Hawk keys look like?

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by NzBrakelathes

What do the Hawk keys look like?

The stock Hawk jets are the two on the bottom of picture.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

The stock Hawk jets are the two on the bottom of picture.

what he said

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by Megadan

If the washers are about 1mm thick, then they would give the same needle adjustment as 1 notch down on a normal needle with 5 notches of adjustment. The taper of the needle is a different question, and I don't think anybody to date has measured it.

I always found it interesting that some people found the 40 pilot jet of the stock carb as too small, when I found it to be almost perfect once the idle mixture was dialed in (usually between 1 and 2 turns out). Never once giving the slightest hint of hesitation below 1/8th throttle that would indicate a lean condition. The needle on the other hand, going back to the taper, is either not aggressive enough or the fixed clip position is relatively high (equivalent of second notch) and causes a lean spot right around 1/8th throttle when the transition takes place. This is why shimming it works so well. Granted there are a lot of environmental factors that could affect this, so making any sort of comparison is somewhat moot. Stepping up to a .018 drill size = 45 keihin jet size.

The needle taper has been roughly the same since the late 1930's, for singles at least, on carbs with the needle in the center of the slide. The only carb that I know of that needed a different needle was the Amal GP RN carb that had the needle in a separate chamber to reduce the turbulance caused by the center hung needle in the normal carbs...ARH

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

The needle taper has been roughly the same since the late 1930's, for singles at least, on carbs with the needle in the center of the slide. The only carb that I know of that needed a different needle was the Amal GP RN carb that had the needle in a separate chamber to reduce the turbulance caused by the center hung needle in the normal carbs...ARH

Except that the needle taper can be changed with each carb type. If we are talking getting into very fine tuning of the carburetor between 1/2 and 3/4 throttle, the taper has a greater influence over 1/2 to 3/4 as well as main jet sizing past 3/4 also being affected, with a smaller end diameter increasing fueling in this range, regardless of clip position.

Not that I would recommend the average person from even trying to sort out carb tuning at this level unless they are obsessed with absolutely perfect carb tuning - which we both know doesn't exist except in a specific atmospheric condition.

[NzBrakelathes]

Bottom pair are from my own cheap CQR CB250 bike, it runs Ok no issues maybe not perfect.

So a simple kit solution would be for the Hawk guys: Screws, adj needle and a few main jets as they are all available. the pilot jet is an orphan of a thing.
Micro drill bits? I can get under 1mm to 2mm drills etc

Ok so I ordered some stuff today, jets a huge amount from 108 to 120 and this seller listed (true or not size wise I dunno) all jets
I ordered a repair kit so gives the needle but this seller had no screws, I am sure I can get
Ordered some tiny drills 0.3 0.035 0.4 0.45 0.5 if I am not wrong that will take the pilot jet to a larger size - will see if I got the right stuff.

Basically the USA version and my pilot jet are rather locked out but some simple not expensive parts and items will give the ability to tune the carb to at least a decent usable state.
The best carb seems to be the PE30 but gets up in costs.
the PZ30 is common on basic engines and I think/speculate it will be just fine for most Hawk/cheap bike owners and beginners alike.

Yes yes you "experts & tuners" will say otherwise - this is just an idea and economical possibility for under $20

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by NzBrakelathes

Bottom pair are from my own cheap CQR CB250 bike, it runs Ok no issues maybe not perfect.

So a simple kit solution would be for the Hawk guys: Screws, adj needle and a few main jets as they are all available. the pilot jet is an orphan of a thing.
Micro drill bits? I can get under 1mm to 2mm drills etc

Want to get a lot of interested buyers? Offer a thumb screw replacement for the idle air mixture adjustment.

[512customs]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Want to get a lot of interested buyers? Offer a thumb screw replacement for the idle air mixture adjustment.

Buy a replacement for the Mikuni vm26 to eliminate the idle screw.

Edit: not sure if a Mikuni idle screw will fit our knock off carbs, but I’ll order one to see.

[OneLeggedRider]

This is why I had to replace the bowl screws. The heads are shallow and there's a fine line between cutting them deep enough for a flathead to get ahold of them and them not breaking off.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by 512customs

Buy a replacement for the Mikuni vm26 to eliminate the idle screw.

Edit: not sure if a Mikuni idle screw will fit our knock off carbs, but I’ll order one to see.

Moot point with me as I have a pumper carb that came with a small thumb screw, and I am soon to be installing either my VM30 or PWK30 which have the mixture screws on the side.

I did try one on my last Hawk with it's VM26, and it didn't work very well.

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

This is why I had to replace the bowl screws. The heads are shallow and there's a fine line between cutting them deep enough for a flathead to get ahold of them and them not breaking off.

I would have replaced them regardless simply because screws are cheap.

[JerryHawk250]

Originally Posted by OneLeggedRider

This is why I had to replace the bowl screws. The heads are shallow and there's a fine line between cutting them deep enough for a flathead to get ahold of them and them not breaking off.

Did you get to take it out for a spin yet?

[OneLeggedRider]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Did you get to take it out for a spin yet?

Haha, no sir. It did get up to 40° today which is an improvement on -4° but my driveway is still covered in a sheet of ice, and is so steep and curvy alot of people wont attempt it even when it's warm and dry. And if you do manage to make it to the bottom there's a slippery wooden bridge with no side railings. That's why we own 5 badass 4x4s and rarely get unexpected guests lol. But in all seriousness I don't plan on riding it till April and I still have to fabricate a slap shifter and make the pegs wider. I sold my Intruder 800 this fall just because of the driveway, dumped it on 3 separate occasions trying to make it up the hill, I bought the Hawk because I figure it will fair a little better.

I put a suicide shifter on the Intruder but for off road machines ya gotta have the slap shifter, both are easy to make.

[OneLeggedRider]

Well these came in the mail yesterday, might put the 110 in today if I get time.