New tt250 help

[Bobertj]

Thank you every one for response yea me and the gentleman at csc went over the whole choke thing it’s been off I live in hot climate don’t use the choke he even had me ride the bike at half choke didn’t help anything guess I’m
Going have to go into the carb. Just never worked on carbs before but doesn’t seem to complicated

[NzBrakelathes]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F303077495104

Take a look as this might be useful
I’m in the USA Saturday I can ship 1-2 things while I’m there etc

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by Bobertj

Thank you every one for response yea me and the gentleman at csc went over the whole choke thing it’s been off I live in hot climate don’t use the choke he even had me ride the bike at half choke didn’t help anything guess I’m
Going have to go into the carb. Just never worked on carbs before but doesn’t seem to complicated

Worst case send them back your carb? Let them test it on another bike in Cali

[Megadan]

A full tear down and clean can't hurt. Sometimes junk, swarf, and other nasty stuff can get trapped in the small passages. Even from new.

Take the carb apart completely. remove every jet, the floats, the float needle, out of the carb including the idle mixture screw - with spring, washer, and O ring (might need a small pick to get it out). Take all of your rubber seals and O rings out so they don't get hit with carb cleaner and set them aside in a safe place. Use the straw on the can of carb cleaner and blast it through every hole and passage you can find. clean out the bowl and the inside of the carb body as well. Then, if you have some compressed air, blow through those same passages to clear them. Do the same with the jets, and if you have any jet cleaning wires you could use them. Then re-assemble.

This is a good time to check your float height. If the carb has the flat bottom floats then the float height setting is 14mm to the top edge of the float with the carb inverted. This is measured from the bowl flange opposite of the float needle.

I would do this and try it out before any jetting changes.

[NzBrakelathes]

Yes you need to see why it runs so bad
I also doubt it’s wrong jetting unless the factory by mistake used wrong jets.
I’m guessing about 34/36 pilot and around 98-103 main as the stock set up.

The stock jetting is more fuel efficient scale rather then power

[Bobertj]

Ok thanks I will have to get into it this weekend and report back it has to be something with the carb idk what else would make it run like that cus other then that the bike runs good and still gets me doing 60 or more fairly easy minus the misses along the way

[elkhunter338]

Originally Posted by JerryHawk250

Also try a new plug. The one that came on the bike may be defective or cracked. I agree, valve lash would be one of the first things to check.

I would second new spark plug. I had that happen in my honda car, new spark plugs, 10 miles later one failed. Replaced it and running good now for 40k+

Valve lash would be good check, mine were tight at 400 miles (I hope I did not damage valves) Bike runs great.
Dad's valve lash was spot on at 100 miles.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by elkhunter338

I would second new spark plug. I had that happen in my honda car, new spark plugs, 10 miles later one failed. Replaced it and running good now for 40k+

Valve lash would be good check, mine were tight at 400 miles (I hope I did not damage valves) Bike runs great.
Dad's valve lash was spot on at 100 miles.

You make a good point here about damaging valves. If you ride at 60 mph for an hour at 6500 rpm, that means that the engine has fired 3250 times in one minute, to cover one mile. To put it simpler, that poor exhaust valve has been assaulted by 500+ drgree heat and flame 3,250 times in order to cover a mile. I think people should adjust the valves before they even start it for the first time. I know, I know. You want to declare "IT LIVES!!!" as soon as possible, but patience, patience!..ARH

[elkhunter338]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

You make a good point here about damaging valves. If you ride at 60 mph for an hour at 6500 rpm, that means that the engine has fired 3250 times in one minute, to cover one mile. To put it simpler, that poor exhaust valve has been assaulted by 500+ drgree heat and flame 3,250 times in order to cover a mile. I think people should adjust the valves before they even start it for the first time. I know, I know. You want to declare "IT LIVES!!!" as soon as possible, but patience, patience!..ARH

You would think the factory could set the valves right, makes me wonder what else they screwed up.
Had I known I would have set the valves from day 1. But another bike my Dads. tt250 was perfect, set on the loose side of the spec.

I removed the side plate to rotate the engine, 1 out of the 3 screws was significantly tighter. Hmm they don't have a torque tools for assembly?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by elkhunter338

You would think the factory could set the valves right, makes me wonder what else they screwed up.
Had I known I would have set the valves from day 1. But another bike my Dads. tt250 was perfect, set on the loose side of the spec.

I removed the side plate to rotate the engine, 1 out of the 3 screws was significantly tighter. Hmm they don't have a torque tools for assembly?

I've worked in plants that use air operated torque wrenches, and I can tell you that every operator gets a different result with those wrenches. For example, your sideplate issue. The first screw is applied to hold everything in alignment, and to make sure nothing moves the first screw has the torque wrench applied longer. Then the other screws are run in just tight enough to make the hammers in the torque wrench make that B-r-a-p noise, and the job is done...ARH