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Old 10-12-2015, 02:34 PM   #16
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheesy View Post
Here's the upgrade you should do, Kato.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/214992...7646161283108/
Exactly what I was thinking!
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Old 10-12-2015, 02:35 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Adjuster View Post
I don't know anything about tractors. Could you simply mount a 12v alternator on the back of the tractor and drive it by the spindle or whatever that thing is called to give you your 12v power?
Excellent idea, because a GM 10SI alternator can spin in either direction.
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Old 10-12-2015, 02:36 PM   #18
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First step will be to pick up the implements on one trailer and the load the tractor onto the big trailer. Will take me two trips to get it all home. I could drive it, but its 25 miles away. Would take about 2 hours.

The first thing I want to do it fix the hydraulics so that it will lift all the way and hold. Right now it leaks down and when you press the clutch in the hydraulics lose pressure. Pushing the clutch in stops the pump.
So, the pump is not driven off of the crankshaft belt right now. How is it driven?
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Old 10-12-2015, 03:43 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Weldangrind View Post
So, the pump is not driven off of the crankshaft belt right now. How is it driven?

It runs off the output shaft of the transmission and is located in the hydraulic reservoir between the transmission and axle.

This is referred to as non-live hydraulics. Same with the PTO. It only operates with the clutch out. Some tractors have a two stage clutch that will allow you to stop the tractor, but keep the PTO spinning.
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Old 10-12-2015, 03:50 PM   #20
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That must be the "PTO overrunning coupler" that I've read about.

Do you have plans to run a hydro pump off of the crank pulley?
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Old 10-13-2015, 11:01 AM   #21
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The overrunning couple attaching to the PTO and then you hook the shaft from the implement to it. It keeps the momentum of a spinning implement from acting on the tractor after the clutch is pressed. With a live PTO or 2 stage clutch this is not an issue.

I may install a belt driven pump later. That would be useful for operating hydraulic cylinders. In stock form it was only designed to lift the 3 point. The tractor does not have any hydraulic remote connections.
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Old 10-14-2015, 09:51 AM   #22
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Most 8Ns that run with be at least a $1000. Nice ones go for about $2500 and restored about $3500-5000.
That's what they're going for in rural NE Texas, too.

The 8n was on my shortlist when it came to getting a utility tractor. I ended up with with a small diesel Kubota with about the same capabilities as teh 8n. It's nowhere near as pretty as the old Fords, though.

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Old 10-14-2015, 06:37 PM   #23
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I thought about 12 conversion on mine too. And I do have a alternator for it. Big deal is a 8n has a positive ground. So the starter needs help and a whole lot of it spinning the wrong direction with twice the voltage it was designed for.. The coil only needs a resistor. John


 
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Old 10-14-2015, 07:29 PM   #24
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I thought about 12 conversion on mine too. And I do have a alternator for it. Big deal is a 8n has a positive ground. So the starter needs help and a whole lot of it spinning the wrong direction with twice the voltage it was designed for.. The coil only needs a resistor. John
I did the 12v conversion on my 1952 Ford F2 that was 6v positive ground. The starter don't care much and will spin in the right direction. Yes, the 6v coil will work with a resistor but 12v coils are cheap. Bulbs need to changed and if any gauges are electric; oil pressure, water temp, fuel; you will need a 6v regulator wired to the gauges.There are lots of schematics for simple LM317T voltage regulators on line. Need to flip the wires on the ammeter.

http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/articles/artint8.htm
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Old 10-14-2015, 10:54 PM   #25
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Great saved the link.
Thanks. Looking back when I was a kid an older kid who just got his first car an old maybe 48 chev or olds with the bathtub looking body, any way he got a new battery and put it in backwards and he said it started any way. smoked something doing it though. If that tractor starter will work next time I buy a battery it will be a 12 volt. Have had tractor 20 years and about all I get is 2 or 3 years per battery and there is only one parts house that still keeps 6 volt batteries around. john
.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ..............
incidently I paid as I remember $1300 and it had 2 brand new rear rims (old owner used sodium in tires and it causes rust on rims) Also got an 8 ft blade with it and I had to buy 2 new front tires.


 
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Old 10-15-2015, 12:27 AM   #26
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incidently I paid as I remember $1300 and it had 2 brand new rear rims (old owner used sodium in tires and it causes rust on rims) Also got an 8 ft blade with it and I had to buy 2 new front tires.
Son of Weldangrind changes tractor and transport truck tires for a living, and he told me that calcium chloride is the ticket for increased traction. There is a chart that shows the recommended ratio of CaC12 to water, from 32F to -62F.
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Old 10-15-2015, 08:54 AM   #27
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That is the reason for the new tires and rear rims on this tractor. I won't need it for my usage. The only area that I may need some additional traction would be garden plowing, but I think that I can get away without.

There is a newer product called rimguard. The rear tires on an 8N are somewhat large compared to modern utility tractors. That will help put all those 23 horses to the ground.
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Old 12-04-2015, 04:44 PM   #28
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Looks like I may go after it on Sunday afternoon. He is going to use it one last time tomorrow. Might take two trips to get all the implements also.
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Old 12-06-2015, 09:03 AM   #29
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Today is the day. I got a trailer load of implements last night.
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Old 12-06-2015, 07:22 PM   #30
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Yay! Pics?
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