Hawk swing arm axle spacers

[kohburn]

I'd like to retrofit a snail shell adjuster to it. need to look at some parts to see what I can make work or if I need to mill something custom.

[wilserchinarider]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Bashans version which is probably universal .

Notice the super tack weld job Could and should be beefed up for the more aggressive riders out there. The end cap steel gets bent and deformed easily
Attachment 6842

Attachment 6843

Once the rear axle is torqued, I'm not sure the chain tensioner adjustment hardware is of any structural significance, and it's purpose is solely to move the axle in the slot while the axle nut is loose.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Bashans version which is probably universal .

Notice the super tack weld job Could and should be beefed up for the more aggressive riders out there. The end cap steel gets bent and deformed easily
Attachment 6842

Attachment 6843

O.K. Now we have something to work with. Option 1 - Dremel saw off the tack weld holding the tube (bottom picture), punch out the tube, put in the correct id tube (for the axle). Do both sides at the same time, using axle to align tubes for welding. Two tack welds ought to do it. The factory uses one. So two is like the belt and suspenders overkill. Or redundency. Option 2 - Using the adjuster for a model, just recreate it in heavier and better quality steel. Oh yeah, with the right size tube.

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by wilserchinarider

Once the rear axle is torqued, I'm not sure the chain tensioner adjustment hardware is of any structural significance, and it's purpose is solely to move the axle in the slot while the axle nut is loose.

Ed McMahon says, you are correct sir.

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

O.K. Now we have something to work with. Option 1 - Dremel saw off the tack weld holding the tube (bottom picture), punch out the tube, put in the correct id tube (for the axle). Do both sides at the same time, using axle to align tubes for welding. Two tack welds ought to do it. The factory uses one. So two is like the belt and suspenders overkill. Or redundency. Option 2 - Using the adjuster for a model, just recreate it in heavier and better quality steel. Oh yeah, with the right size tube.

Hahaha.

not pictured is already another tack on the other side. I was thinking the same to tighten it up with the correct length spacer. Or even just tack weld on an additional washer to it if narrow enough

You know how these things go once the ideas start flowing.

Kohburn sounds interesting too.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Hahaha.

not pictured is already another tack on the other side. I was thinking the same to tighten it up with the correct length spacer. Or even just tack weld on an additional washer to it if narrow enough

You know how these things go once the ideas start flowing.

Kohburn sounds interesting too.

Those would have to be aircraft or ship fitters grade washers to stand up for long. This is free advice. It is worth every penny spent.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by BlackBike

Hahaha.

not pictured is already another tack on the other side. I was thinking the same to tighten it up with the correct length spacer. Or even just tack weld on an additional washer to it if narrow enough

You know how these things go once the ideas start flowing.

Kohburn sounds interesting too.

Thinking about washers, it would be possible to make stepped washers on a lathe, making the id a snug fit on the axle, and the od a pretty tight fit in the chain adjuster tubes. 3/16 - 1/4 inch wide, all of that in the tube, plus 1/16th outside the adjuster.

[SeerAtlas]

I think on one of the braZil 23o DP bikes I saw an aluminum instead of stamped steel, swingarm of a MUCH better design, I wonder if such a thing is available somewhere on one of the chinese online shops, that would fit our frames....

[CSR_Sprocket]

The owner's manual for the RPS Hawk (http://therps.net/User%20Manual/Hawk...s%20Manual.pdf) lists 60 foot pounds for the rear axle. With an average amount of testosterone there's no need for a cheater bar to attain that. I don't recommend an open-end wrench, either. I use a hex spanner from another m/c tool set.

Regarding the "spacer slop" first reported by Seer Atlas' brother: attached is the photo of my rear axle with the nut removed. The axle is a tight fit in the slider with no slop. I re-installed the nut using my 1/2" drive torque wrench. 60 ft. lb. doesn't deform the swingarm a bit. IMO, with the correct slider/spacer installed, there's no need for an over-engineered fix.

That said, the initial problem may have been either a Friday bike or part of a bad batch of parts. If anyone on this forum is old enough to have worked on AMC cars, they sourced parts from different OEM's depending on the year, model, and lowest bidder. Haosen is probably doing the same thing - building bikes with whatever they had on hand.

Remember, Haosen is trying to meet the demand for quantity, not for quality. In the case of my bike there are many parts that don't line up as they should. Like the exhaust valve tappet bolt. Only one edge of the bolt actually contacts the valve (they should mate squarely). As a result I need to adjust that valve tappet every 300 miles or so (the edge of the adjuster bolt gets rounded off and will continue to do so until I've adjusted an 360 degree turn of the bolt). I've not yet learned to enjoy it, but I'm getting really good at pulling off the gas tank \-:

[hertz9753]

None of us are old enough to know the Matador, Pacer, or AMX. The AMX was pretty good and I never understood why they needed the Javelin.

[kohburn]

Originally Posted by hertz9753

None of us are old enough to know the Matador, Pacer, or AMX. The AMX was pretty good and I never understood why they needed the Javelin.

my folks had an AMX before I was born. my little 5'2" mom would drive it into downtown Baltimore to work at johns Hopkins hospital. her clutch leg was strong.

[SeerAtlas]

Originally Posted by hertz9753

None of us are old enough to know the Matador, Pacer, or AMX. The AMX was pretty good and I never understood why they needed the Javelin.

au contraire.....
couldn't stomach the pacer, the mat was too heavy-too slow, but the javelin was a fun street racer once that small block was breathed on, and the suspension tightened up wasn't the fastest, but not bad bang for buck fun

[Weldangrind]

I always wanted a Rebel.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by kohburn

I'd like to retrofit a snail shell adjuster to it. need to look at some parts to see what I can make work or if I need to mill something custom.

To me, the answer is a different swingarm. Perhaps an early XR200R would be a good donor.

[BlackBike]

Originally Posted by SeerAtlas

au contraire.....
couldn't stomach the pacer, the mat was too heavy-too slow, but the javelin was a fun street racer once that small block was breathed on, and the suspension tightened up wasn't the fastest, but not bad bang for buck fun

The pacer... I remember my parents considered it. It really made a statement back in the day but died as quickly as it came. A 79 honda accord 4 door and then an 1980 same model followed in my family. These were spectacular cars for their time. I remember how we were so impressed at how tight and crisp the door closing sound made. And thus began the "turning Japanese " of the auto industry.

When did Detroit really recover from the Japanese /import onslaught ? One might argue not until late 80's with Chrysler minivans, and Ford/Chevy suv's. Jmo.