Hawk dyno.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by hertz9753

I will only say that the K&N filter should be dry and not sprayed. You also need to seal it under the retaining bracket. Roger also didn't talk about carb adjustments.

Not sure who's post I read about it to be honest. I will find out for sure in either case if the K&N has any effect, good or bad, or requires any carb adjustments. I almost wonder if the airbox needs a larger opening than even a modded snorkel to really see any benefit.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

If it gives the same dyno results as the Qlink XF/XP 200, expect about 5 hp increase.

It started at 15 hp and after jetting and a different muffler, it dyno'd at 20 hp. That's a substantial increase percentage-wise.

I can't find the original post but here's the vid for proof.

http://chinariders.net/showthread.ph...highlight=dyno

I have not seen anyone do this with a Hondoid. It will be cool, megadan.

That would awesome to pick up about 5hp. Being rated at 14.1hp with a too lean carb and restrictive exhaust, I honestly wouldn't be surprised if there were a hp or two picked up from a properly tuned carb alone.

I would wager, with the stock carb tuned properly, 14 wheel hp. With mods, if your numbers are any sort of indicator, then 18whp isn't unrealistic. I am using conservative numbers obviously, but I think realistic.

I should be getting my Hawk friday, hopefully. If so, I will get it setup, do the stock carb, and put a couple hundred miles on it before it's date with the dyno. Believe me, I can do a couple hundred miles in a day or two lol.

[GeneralTso]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Just keep in mind guys, while I would love to spend the time to do every little bit, this isn't a free endeavor for me. $55 each set of runs out of my own pocket here. While doing 2 or 3 runs is reasonable, 10 of them will cost half the price of the bike. That is why I think a properly jetted stock bike vs. a completely modified bike comparison would be a great comparison. With maybe an exhaust only run tossed in, and only because I believe the stock exhaust is the most restrictive part of the bike.

IMO if you don't establish the baseline you are wasting your money which is why what you say about getting it dialed in totally stock and then making upgrades makes the most sense to me. Keep it stock, get the carb dialed in as best you can and see what it makes, then figure out how you want to stage the subsequent runs with which upgrades.

It's a cool project, don't get me wrong, but based on the mods being discussed not sure how much improvement you'll actually be making because like was pointed out already the mods are mainly making it more tune able and are like for like. I'm thinking any increase you do see will be more a result of being able to dial the bike in tighter to it's existing capability as opposed to actual HP increasing modifications beyond the stock configuration.

That said though any more HP you can squeeze from it that you don't have now is a good thing!

Now if we did some head work or maybe a carb upgrade, something along those lines.............

[Megadan]

Intake and exhaust upgrades will be where most of the power would be gained. The carb change is mainly for tuning ease and simplicity. That is the only like for like upgrade being made. The VM26/PZ30 is more than enough carb to support up to about 18-20hp in the limited rev range of these motors.

In my first post you will read that I did just buy a new head assembly to do a port job on, which will be installed later on with, most likely, a 32 or 34mm flat slide carburetor.

The point of this is to mainly show that, if a person gets a Hawk or any GC250 powered bike, what they can realistically expect if they do all of the bolt on upgrades. I have only seen guesses on the power of these bikes, besides the factory rating, when it comes to their power. Everything from 16hp to 20+hp with the basic mods. It would be nice to have some hard figures to toss up as a reference. That is why all figures and dyno charts I want to post will be corrected. The numbers themselves aren't the goal, just the differences.

Then, later on, what can be gained from a basic port job and a proper performance carb setup. Which, at this point, I would guess 20-22whp. The reason I want to do that separately from the bolt on mods, is that most people are generally happy with the bolt ons, or may not want to invest the time and money in head work etc. I will say that my goal with the head work is to not alter the powerband of the bike itself. It's not going to be overly aggressive, just a simple radius smoothing, and port matching to whatever intake I choose to run to make the larger carb manifold work correctly.

[GeneralTso]

Originally Posted by Megadan

In my first post you will read that I did just buy a new head assembly to do a port job on, which will be installed later on with, most likely, a 32 or 34mm flat slide carburetor.

Well there you go, I got the names crossed up and thought you were talking to the OP, didn't go back and look. Well that will be interesting then to see what that gives you compared to the baseline stock.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by GeneralTso

Well there you go, I got the names crossed up and thought you were talking to the OP, didn't go back and look. Well that will be interesting then to see what that gives you compared to the baseline stock.

I often talk to myself, so it's a fair mistake lol

[hertz9753]

Stock filter on the left K&N on the right. I would think that if the flow less limited it would make better use of the air that it could get. I have pictures of pretty much that I did with my Hawk 1, because it's not the 2 or 3...