10-21-2009, 12:33 AM | #16 | |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
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Quote:
I put a bid in on the auction already, but it's low so if I win it no big deal. Thanks for clarifying the proper names of the wire connectors. Yes, part of the spade is still on the coil, then the other end is crimped to the wire so it won't stay on. I tried to shove it on there to close the connection but either it didn't work, or it did and it's not the problem.. Easy to fix for sure, not too concerned, just wondering if that's the actual problem. |
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10-21-2009, 12:38 AM | #17 | ||
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
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10-21-2009, 12:40 AM | #18 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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T,
We'll figure out the wiring issue on Saturday. How am i supposed to sleep now? Pete, My way is non-flammable. I use a mix of dishsoap and water as a lube on the bead, remove the schrader valve (for increased volume) and let 'er rip to about 20psi. It works great, but the rims and tires are far from perfect on these, so tubes are your friend.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-21-2009, 12:48 AM | #19 | |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
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10-21-2009, 12:54 AM | #20 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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The only reason for choosing dishsoap is that it's free. Bead sealer is probably a better idea, but soap works.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-21-2009, 12:57 AM | #21 | |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
Posts: 382
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10-21-2009, 01:25 AM | #22 |
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Abbotsford, BC, Canada
Posts: 4,880
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I like the tool the tire shop has for truck tires, it's an air tank with a big pipe coming off it and an on off valve, then it flares out wide to go on the edge of the rim, flip the valve and it empties the tank into the tire.
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10-21-2009, 01:41 AM | #23 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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That's an impressive amount of volume I'll bet. I'll ask my buddy over at Fountain Tire (who taught me the soap trick) to show me what you're referring to.
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-21-2009, 01:54 AM | #24 |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
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So I take it you smart guys think the tire is fine, just needs someone with some smarts to make it work again. That would be fine with me, less cash, more labour... much better with my marital surroundings at the moment. I always played with rods and crankshafts, no tires or cdi's, coils or miniture wiring too small for anyone but 5 year old chinese kids in the factory.
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10-21-2009, 02:15 AM | #25 | |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
Posts: 382
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10-21-2009, 02:22 AM | #26 | |
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
Posts: 382
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Quote:
Hmmm..a guy good with engine rebuilding eh? So you can pull it apart, send the rod out for shotpeen, turn the crank .010/.010, oversize bearings, hand file the rings, bore the big end on the rod (bolts in), hone the cylinder, stick a deck plate on and deck the block, shave the head a bit....COOL cause I CANT DO ANY OF THAT pete
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10-21-2009, 02:28 AM | #27 |
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Sardis, BC, Canada
Posts: 25,977
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Yeah, I'm kinda hoping that T will blow the motor, so we can do a stage 3 rebuild on it! I'm all over a high compression piston, ported head, hot cam and a stroker crank (especially if it's T's money and talent).
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Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer |
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10-21-2009, 02:28 AM | #28 | ||
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
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Pete I spent 13 years in an engine shop, and everything you mentioned I've done, with the help of ten's of thousand dollars worth of machinery. It's all sold off now, so the best I could do would be polish a crankshaft and share my knowledge with anyone who will listen. I spent less time with bores and pistons, more time with rod resizing, crank grinding and cylinder head pressure testing and surfacing. I could recite strokes and rod/main sizes for too many crankshafts to count off by heart, not sure where that gets me anymore. ..and we didn't do much big end 'boring' of rods, it was mostly honed with a sunnen rod resizing machine, chopping the cap and rod was always fun though! |
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10-21-2009, 02:34 AM | #29 | |
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C., Canada
Posts: 2,185
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..why not though, going to get the no rev cdi, beat the hell out of 'er for while, what I got to lose for 250 bucks and W&G's wrench time! |
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10-21-2009, 02:35 AM | #30 | |||
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Newmarket On Canada
Posts: 382
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Aerospace, Military, Power generation, commercial aircraft. The last 17 yrs as QA Manager. For honing, yeah, theres Sunen and everything else. Damn fine bore gauges too, but super pricey. Two divisions, 100 employees, you can figure the equipment out. Last item we purchased was 2 horizontal boring mills...Italy iirc.....Take a 60" stator ring casting and work to tenths...yes, seriously.
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