Just Ordered a Brozz 250

[MOTOXtreme]

I linked one in my previous post that should work.

[goat67]

Yes my Air Fuel Mixture screw on the bottom of the carb is the half shaped deal.

To adjust it I took the carb off and used a pair of pliers Major PITA.

The kits I ordered has a regular slotted screws so that is going to be swapped in.

I have mine adjusted out at around 2 to 2.5 hard to tell turning with the pliers.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by goat67

Thanks ARH

I will keep you posted as to what I do to the carb. I will follow your advice.

And as far as the kill switch there is not one on the right side and not one on the left it is really weird that this bike does not have one.

Anybody have any ideas to incorporate one?

I changed the procedure from what we discussed on the phone because you only have 100 miles on the bike. We do not want to fry a piston on a new bike, right? Any on-off switch will work (AFAIK). Look on ebay for vintage English switches. They were made to fit the handlebars...ARH

[BigWeld]

Originally Posted by jeffrey

On my Storm200 I unplugged the four way flasher wires and looked for a black wire with a white stripe and a green wire then spliced the switch wires to those two. I don't remember the colors on the switch for open or closed. I did this two years ago. I didn't like the four way flashers so it is now a kill switch.

Brilliant!

[Kipper1012]

Originally Posted by MOTOXtreme

I linked one in my previous post that should work.

Oh I must have missed that post. I wonder if that would work since our carbs are keihin PD carbs and the one you linked to is for a "fcr"


I did see the d sockets but I think a thumb screw would be much better

[goat67]

Originally Posted by jeffrey

On my Storm200 I unplugged the four way flasher wires and looked for a black wire with a white stripe and a green wire then spliced the switch wires to those two. I don't remember the colors on the switch for open or closed. I did this two years ago. I didn't like the four way flashers so it is now a kill switch.

When you say you looked for a black wire and a green wire where did you look?

In the mess of wires in the front of the bike behind the head light?

Thanks I was thinking of doing the same thing. Who needs flashers any way?

[goat67]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I think the tutorial from CSC is the most helpful. What I call the pilot jet, Keihin calls the slow jet. What some people call the idle jet I call the idle mixture screw. The main jet is a main jet. I would hold the main jet holder firmly, so that just the main jet unscrews. I would not go through the float and float valve routine. Just change the main jet, and the pilot jet. And put in the multi groove needle, with clip. You don't need to worry about needle taper or thickness with the five grooved needle. When I do this on an Amal, Bing, Del Orto, or Mikuni, I follow a simple system. I start by setting the carburetor where it should be. Idle mixture screw out 1 1/2 turns. Needle in center slot. Now, with the engine idleing, turn the mixture screw back and forth until engine reaches highest idle rpm. I think (from what I read) that the Keihin uses an fuel bleed idle screw. As opposed to an air bleed idle screw. If I'm right, that means the farther you turn the idle mixture out, the richer the idle mixture. So if you have to turn the idle mixture screw out more than 1 3/4 turns, the pilot jet is too lean. Now the slow jet controls the mixture from just above idle to 1/4 throttle. The needle controls the fuel mixture from 1/4 throttle to 3/4 throttle. BUT IT IS DOING THIS BY REGULATING THE FLOW FROM THE MAIN JET. So, while the ultimate test is the plug chop, for now you don't need to go that far. Once you have the correct slow jet (pilot jet), there will be a hesitation when you get above 1/4 throttle. Change up on main jets until there is no hesitation. When you get past five hundred miles, then you can do a plug chop. Perhaps by then, you will have found the kill switch on the handlebars. LOL

So to summarize the steps.

Use kit to replace bottom carb screws.

Use kit to replace Idle mixture screw aka air fuel mixture screw or idle jet adjust to 1 1/2 turns out

Replace needle from kit that has the steps and place clip in middle position.

Adjust Idle mixture screw for highest rpm. If more than 1 3/4 out replace pilot jet with on 1 step more rich. Repeat this step until right jet is installed.

Check throttle response for hesitation from above 1/4 if hesitation increase main jet by one size.

When I get engine broke in I can do the plug chop.

[Kipper1012]

I made a adjustment tool last night/early this am works great.
Spread out the end of a roll pin so it slid over the screw and then squashed it in a bench vice to make it oblong

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by goat67

So to summarize the steps.

Use kit to replace bottom carb screws.

Use kit to replace Idle mixture screw aka air fuel mixture screw or idle jet adjust to 1 1/2 turns out

Replace needle from kit that has the steps and place clip in middle position.

Adjust Idle mixture screw for highest rpm. If more than 1 3/4 out replace pilot jet with on 1 step more rich. Repeat this step until right jet is installed.

Check throttle response for hesitation from above 1/4 if hesitation increase main jet by size.

When I get engine broke in I can do the plug chop.

I ought to get you to write this column - you are much more succinct than I am....ARH

[goat67]

Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter

I ought to get you to write this column - you are much more succinct than I am....ARH

I just reworded the important steps to tune the carb so it was easier to understand.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Originally Posted by goat67

I just reworded the important steps to tune the carb so it was easier to understand.

I try to explain things three different ways so that the most "Dazed and Confused" can see the light. This only works some of the time, but at least my heart is in the right place...ARH

[goat67]

Question regarding the pilot/slow Jet on the PZ 30 does it look like this?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item-img/Motorcycles-modified-with-a-cold-start-short-Keihin-carburetor-pilot-jet-nozzle-vice-injectors-Nozzle-12/32261794843.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000017.2.vjQK8 y#

[MOTOXtreme]

Yes, and what you have there is the ONLY thing I could find on it. Weird.

[goat67]

Originally Posted by jeffrey

Yes behind the headlight. I think there is a black/white wire that goes to the ignition switch. The green wire is any ground wire in that area. The black wire with the white tracer grounds the CDI.

I rewired this today. Interesting the blue and orange flasher wires have a diode in line.

The three wires you need to modify are the blue, orange and gray wires.

I took the switch and harness off the bike so I could remove the wires from the molex plug.

To remove the wires from the plug use a small screwdriver or dental pick to push the holder on the pin.

I removed the harness cover at this point you will see where the blue wire is spliced and another wire is added the orange wire and the diodes are placed in line.

I cut the the blue wire before the splice and then I spliced in a wire to match the length of the gray wire.

I cut the gray wire to remove the connector. You now have the two wires you need to splice into the ignition switch harness.

I removed the green and black wire with white strip from the molex connector.

I then used an exacto knife to remove about 3/8 inch of insulation right before the pin.

I then soldered the blue and gray wires to the green and black/white stripe wires.

I used shrink tubing to finish the wires up and put the wires back into the molex connector.

I now have a kill switch. and no emergency flashers.

[joker]

Any one close to queensbury with a brozz or hawk want to ride? I only have my permit so need to be licensed