Build a small utility trailer for Zongshen Sierra 200? - Page 3

Barnone · 02-25-2011, 08:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MICRider

[
Plus, you can pick up chicks!

MICRider,
If you want to pick up chicks you need the FIFI model.

katoranger · 02-25-2011, 08:26 AM

That parking lot with the sierra on the trailer sure looks familiar. I think I have been there not long ago too.

Jakhack · 02-25-2011, 08:49 AM

Hi Weldangrind,

Not sure yet what I will make the deck with. Have to see what my local building supply has to offer. Or more likely, what is on close-out. Plywood would be easy, but I may opt for something more light weight. Besides if it is plywood, I would almost feel the necessity to paint it and I am not looking for more work.

But right now my mind is drifting ahead to how I am going to make the hitch. I woke up at 5:30 this AM with the plans pretty complete. It is amazing what the brain will still be working on while the rest of the body sleeps.

Jakhack · 02-25-2011, 08:56 AM

The parking lot is in the NW corner of the Twin Cities, just south of Andover. But it looks a lot different now that they had another 12+ inches dumped on them. Nothing sadder than a trailer with a bike on it, both covered with snow. I managed to get my Zong off the trailer and into a shed, so it is patiently waiting for warmer weather. All of this will soon be forgotten!

Cal25 · 02-25-2011, 08:56 AM

Maybe thin aluminun sheet. Have to use several rivets to keep it from drumming though.

Jakhack · 02-25-2011, 09:07 AM

You were reading my mind with the sheet aluminum. I was thinking the same thing and have to see what I can get locally. And ditto on your thinking about the pop rivets.

A question for the pop rivet experts in the crowd: The guy at Fastenal said I could use aluminum and steel pop rivets with aluminum, but not stainless steel rivets. I didn't ask at the time, but am now wondering - what's the trouble with using Stainless rivets with aluminum? Corrosion? Some weird kind of electrical conductivity? Or what? Think I should do it anyway?

Cal25 · 02-25-2011, 09:48 AM

If you are going to try pop rivets with stainless mandrels, make sure you have a riviter with long handles like bolt cutters. I tried using the hand type on some rivets on my sailboat and I could not snap the mandrels no matter how hard I squeased.

katoranger · 02-25-2011, 10:15 AM

I am sure I have been in that lot before then.

There is this fiberglass panel stuff that I used on car wash equipment. 1/8" thick. Comes in a 4x8 sheet from Menards/Home Depot. Smooth on one side and textured on the other.

It is pretty stiff, but flexible and could be riveted too. Cut on the table saw or circular saw with a plywood blade.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053

Jakhack · 02-26-2011, 01:26 PM

katoranger and Cal - thanks for the comments. Cal - I did have to get one of the better riveters - my hand strength isn't what it used to be, so I need the extra help.

katoranger - I checked both Home Depot and Menards here in Brainerd, MN and found the material you are referencing. It is also used to line showers, dairy rooms and anywhere else there is a very wet environment. It is quite reasonable at about $25 for a 4X8 sheet.

But I ended up with something else, about $9 more per sheet, but it looks very promising. It is a 4'X8' corrugated polycarbonate panel that is about a 1/4 inch think, made like cardboard. It is incredibly light - I can hold up a full 4X8 sheet holding it with just my thumb and index finger. It is used in green houses to let light through, so it is translucent, which I decided I liked better than the white bead board looking stuff. You cut it just like what you suggested.

HOWEVER, my trailer project was delayed when I discovered a problem with my design and had to go back and correct it. Simple issue - there was no way to remove a tire without disassembling the whole frame. The tire axles are held in place with the steel mounts which are bolted to the underside of the aluminum frame. On the inside mount on each wheel the axles went through both the steel mount and one side of the supporting aluminum angle. And that was the problem. There was not enough room between the two frame members to get the wheel and rim out for any tire repairs or replacement.

The fix was simple enough, but I had to unbolt a lot of stuff. I cut a channel on the side of the inside aluminum frame member so that when I unbolt the steel mounting angle, the axle just drops straight down. So to remove a wheel, I have to take off four 7/16 nylon lock nuts and the steel mounting bracket and the wheel drop down and out of the trailer. Easy enough and glad I thought of this problem now!

I will get back to the project this weekend. No more Sunday football to waste my time. Next I will build the upper frame, sides and interior fenders. Wonder how many more dumb things I will do before I am done with this project. I may try to get one of my neighbor's kids to test this thing when I am done!

Weldangrind · 02-26-2011, 08:19 PM

Sounds like you bought corplast. That's an interesting idea.

I'm glad that you figured out the wheel issue before it was a roadside repair.

Jakhack · 02-27-2011, 11:31 AM

Corplast? Yes, there is a label on the sheet, but it is in the snow outside and I won't get back to it for a few days. I will look to see what the brand and other info is then and post it. It is supposed to be very tough, but is incredibly light.

For now I am still finishing off the frame, but ran out of aluminum angle, which will have to wait until Monday to replenish. Then use this new stuff, whatever it is, for the sides and possible around the tires. Next it will be on to the tongue and hitch construction. I am thinking of attaching the hitch to the bike in the passenger footpeg area and also need another attachment point higher up. Probably in the luggage rack area. But that is work for later next week.

Here is what it looked like around 10:00 PM last night:

You can see that I decided to reverse the angle on the top sides and I have drilled some holes in them. I wanted to have some good attachment points for bungee, straps or whatever. This makes the trailer a little wider - it is now 35" wide edge to edge on the top side angles, but I hope that does not prove to be critical. My main consideration was to have good mounting for my bungee cords or straps that wouldn't slip. And that is my new compound rivet tool in the lower right area, which makes it a lot easier to pull these larger steel pop rivets tight. Someone earlier made that point earlier and it was a good one. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.

Weldangrind · 02-27-2011, 12:46 PM

It's coming along nicely. 8) I have one of those giant riveters as well; they really make up for tendonitis.

FastDoc · 02-27-2011, 01:55 PM

Have you considered running solid rubber inner tubes? A bit of a PIA to install but will never get a flat...

katoranger · 02-27-2011, 05:20 PM

I didn't think of corplast. It is popular for for sale signs around here. That is perfect for the project.

Jakhack · 03-01-2011, 11:10 PM

Boy, have I lived a sheltered life!!! I didn't know they offer solid rubber inner tubes. Bike shop? Or where?

I am semi retired but occasionally do some contract work and have had to hang up the wrenches for a few days. I will get back to the trailer in a day or two and start posting photos again.

02-25-2011, 08:26 AM	#32
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	That parking lot with the sierra on the trailer sure looks familiar. I think I have been there not long ago too. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

02-25-2011, 10:15 AM	#38
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I am sure I have been in that lot before then. There is this fiberglass panel stuff that I used on car wash equipment. 1/8" thick. Comes in a 4x8 sheet from Menards/Home Depot. Smooth on one side and textured on the other. It is pretty stiff, but flexible and could be riveted too. Cut on the table saw or circular saw with a plywood blade. http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...atalogId=10053 __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

02-26-2011, 08:19 PM	#40
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Sounds like you bought corplast. That's an interesting idea. I'm glad that you figured out the wheel issue before it was a roadside repair. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

02-27-2011, 12:46 PM	#42
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	It's coming along nicely. 8) I have one of those giant riveters as well; they really make up for tendonitis. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

02-27-2011, 01:55 PM	#43
FastDoc Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Southeastern Washington desert Posts: 14,761	Have you considered running solid rubber inner tubes? A bit of a PIA to install but will never get a flat... __________________ Happy to serve.
	0

02-25-2011, 08:49 AM	#33
Jakhack Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: North Central Minnesota Posts: 42	Hi Weldangrind, Not sure yet what I will make the deck with. Have to see what my local building supply has to offer. Or more likely, what is on close-out. Plywood would be easy, but I may opt for something more light weight. Besides if it is plywood, I would almost feel the necessity to paint it and I am not looking for more work. But right now my mind is drifting ahead to how I am going to make the hitch. I woke up at 5:30 this AM with the plans pretty complete. It is amazing what the brain will still be working on while the rest of the body sleeps.
	0

02-25-2011, 08:56 AM	#34
Jakhack Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: North Central Minnesota Posts: 42	The parking lot is in the NW corner of the Twin Cities, just south of Andover. But it looks a lot different now that they had another 12+ inches dumped on them. Nothing sadder than a trailer with a bike on it, both covered with snow. I managed to get my Zong off the trailer and into a shed, so it is patiently waiting for warmer weather. All of this will soon be forgotten!
	0

02-25-2011, 08:56 AM	#35
Cal25 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Terrell and Grapevine Tx. Posts: 1,585	Maybe thin aluminun sheet. Have to use several rivets to keep it from drumming though.
	0

02-25-2011, 09:07 AM	#36
Jakhack Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: North Central Minnesota Posts: 42	You were reading my mind with the sheet aluminum. I was thinking the same thing and have to see what I can get locally. And ditto on your thinking about the pop rivets. A question for the pop rivet experts in the crowd: The guy at Fastenal said I could use aluminum and steel pop rivets with aluminum, but not stainless steel rivets. I didn't ask at the time, but am now wondering - what's the trouble with using Stainless rivets with aluminum? Corrosion? Some weird kind of electrical conductivity? Or what? Think I should do it anyway?
	0

02-25-2011, 09:48 AM	#37
Cal25 Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Terrell and Grapevine Tx. Posts: 1,585	If you are going to try pop rivets with stainless mandrels, make sure you have a riviter with long handles like bolt cutters. I tried using the hand type on some rivets on my sailboat and I could not snap the mandrels no matter how hard I squeased.
	0

02-26-2011, 01:26 PM	#39
Jakhack Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: North Central Minnesota Posts: 42	katoranger and Cal - thanks for the comments. Cal - I did have to get one of the better riveters - my hand strength isn't what it used to be, so I need the extra help. katoranger - I checked both Home Depot and Menards here in Brainerd, MN and found the material you are referencing. It is also used to line showers, dairy rooms and anywhere else there is a very wet environment. It is quite reasonable at about $25 for a 4X8 sheet. But I ended up with something else, about $9 more per sheet, but it looks very promising. It is a 4'X8' corrugated polycarbonate panel that is about a 1/4 inch think, made like cardboard. It is incredibly light - I can hold up a full 4X8 sheet holding it with just my thumb and index finger. It is used in green houses to let light through, so it is translucent, which I decided I liked better than the white bead board looking stuff. You cut it just like what you suggested. HOWEVER, my trailer project was delayed when I discovered a problem with my design and had to go back and correct it. Simple issue - there was no way to remove a tire without disassembling the whole frame. The tire axles are held in place with the steel mounts which are bolted to the underside of the aluminum frame. On the inside mount on each wheel the axles went through both the steel mount and one side of the supporting aluminum angle. And that was the problem. There was not enough room between the two frame members to get the wheel and rim out for any tire repairs or replacement. The fix was simple enough, but I had to unbolt a lot of stuff. I cut a channel on the side of the inside aluminum frame member so that when I unbolt the steel mounting angle, the axle just drops straight down. So to remove a wheel, I have to take off four 7/16 nylon lock nuts and the steel mounting bracket and the wheel drop down and out of the trailer. Easy enough and glad I thought of this problem now! I will get back to the project this weekend. No more Sunday football to waste my time. Next I will build the upper frame, sides and interior fenders. Wonder how many more dumb things I will do before I am done with this project. I may try to get one of my neighbor's kids to test this thing when I am done!
	0

02-27-2011, 11:31 AM	#41
Jakhack Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: North Central Minnesota Posts: 42	Corplast? Yes, there is a label on the sheet, but it is in the snow outside and I won't get back to it for a few days. I will look to see what the brand and other info is then and post it. It is supposed to be very tough, but is incredibly light. For now I am still finishing off the frame, but ran out of aluminum angle, which will have to wait until Monday to replenish. Then use this new stuff, whatever it is, for the sides and possible around the tires. Next it will be on to the tongue and hitch construction. I am thinking of attaching the hitch to the bike in the passenger footpeg area and also need another attachment point higher up. Probably in the luggage rack area. But that is work for later next week. Here is what it looked like around 10:00 PM last night: You can see that I decided to reverse the angle on the top sides and I have drilled some holes in them. I wanted to have some good attachment points for bungee, straps or whatever. This makes the trailer a little wider - it is now 35" wide edge to edge on the top side angles, but I hope that does not prove to be critical. My main consideration was to have good mounting for my bungee cords or straps that wouldn't slip. And that is my new compound rivet tool in the lower right area, which makes it a lot easier to pull these larger steel pop rivets tight. Someone earlier made that point earlier and it was a good one. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions.
	0

02-27-2011, 05:20 PM	#44
katoranger Join Date: May 2007 Location: Altamont, Kansas Posts: 15,103	I didn't think of corplast. It is popular for for sale signs around here. That is perfect for the project. __________________ You meet the nicest people on a Honda Clone.
	0

03-01-2011, 11:10 PM	#45
Jakhack Join Date: Feb 2011 Location: North Central Minnesota Posts: 42	Boy, have I lived a sheltered life!!! I didn't know they offer solid rubber inner tubes. Bike shop? Or where? I am semi retired but occasionally do some contract work and have had to hang up the wrenches for a few days. I will get back to the trailer in a day or two and start posting photos again.
	0