Craigslist Score - Gio Beast 200cc - Pics and Wiring

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by PCD

Until the last few years my entire life was spent in precision Aerospace machine shops. I speak your lingo.
Aerospace, Military, Power generation, commercial aircraft. The last 17 yrs as QA Manager.

For honing, yeah, theres Sunen and everything else. Damn fine bore gauges too, but super pricey.

Two divisions, 100 employees, you can figure the equipment out. Last item we purchased was 2 horizontal boring mills...Italy iirc.....Take a 60" stator ring casting and work to tenths...yes, seriously.

Sunnen bore gauges were pretty slick. Real feel to get used to them, especially setting the sizing, and everyone had a slightly different feel on the mic and the setup fixture.

I liked resizing rods, other than the honing oil stunk.

Horizontal boring mills? So like a big ass line bore machine for engine blocks? Thats sounds fun to watch work.

We had a rottler cylinder bore, was kind of mesmerizing to watch it slice the bore open, nothing 60" though! That is some stability in the cutter.

The job was fun for a time.. it was neat to tear down some old greasy, grimey motor, put it through the process of degreasing, glass beading, shot peening, re-machining everything so it was shiney and new. The shotpeen would rip rust off and make it look like a new grey casting, with freshly machined surfaces and nice cross hatches etc. It got pretty repetitive in some instances. I used to have to grind about 7-10 of the same crank in a row. I remember doing import 4 cyl toyotas, 3E's and 22R's, over and over. Just about fell asleep.. but it's experience to look back on, know I have a skill and I learned a lot.

My dad's a walking engine rebuilding encyclopedia, and a virtual millwright genius. The way that guy could just rip down machines and know how to fix them properly always amazed me. From hydraulics to electrical to plumbing he just knew how it worked. Got offered jobs from the major machine companies to fix their stuff, (Sunnen, Storm Vulcan, IDL etc) ... I never got that brain gene but he tried to show me.. now after 30 years of that pounding on the body he's virtually a mushroom in his own home, body falling apart on him. It's why I wanted out.. now I play with light weight quads and bug people here for knowledge.

[PCD]

I am not going to try and weasel out, i got home, looked at bike, and saw yellow wire dissapear into a mass of electrical tape. Its been an 18hr day and I'm too tired to trace it, but I'll be awake again in a few hours.

I had a grandfather (Danish) like your dad. Woodworking was his game. Came over in 29. He would design machines based on the part the customer wanted. Built entire factories. Designed the first multi spindle production drill press for high speed manufacture of crib boards. Cool guy.

I dont know a damn thing about your situation or finances...but a spare set of drives is not a bad thing if you can get them cheap enough for your liking.

I'm trying to get at least one of everything he sells because I really hope to keep this a long time.
Hey...if ole Spud can get 20k...sheesh. I'd probably bronze the thing and put it in my living room!

I'll have pics up by 16:00 your time.

Cheers

[Reveeen]

I like the tool the tire shop has for truck tires, it's an air tank with a big pipe coming off it and an on off valve, then it flares out wide to go on the edge of the rim, flip the valve and it empties the tank into the tire.

We used to use either (starting fluid) to "blow" them on, up until the either got "user safe", then we had to make a tire "blower".

Grab an air tank (single chamber) from under a truck, or trailer. Put (adapt) an air fill valve (like a tire valve, but with a pipe thread on the end) into one of the holes. On one end weld in a piece of 1 1/2 ID iron pipe, with pipe thread on one end, use a matching 1 1/2" ball valve tap. Thread in a short piece of 1 1/2" pipe, to this you attach a air spreader you have made out of 1/16 plate (5-6" wide, 3/4" high, necking down to the 1 1/2 pipe you have coming off of the ball valve. Put a curve (to match with the rim) on the business end of the thing. Plug all remaining holes, weld on a handle, and you are good to go.

But, I maintain it's still more fun to blow them on with either (especially if you have an apprentice standing on the thing).

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by Reveeen

But, I maintain it's still more fun to blow them on with either (especially if you have an apprentice standing on the thing).

That's awesome! I can just imagine the apprentice's reaction when the tire goes "whooomp"!

[PCD]

YELLOW WIRE: This could very well be the source of trouble. Pop the seat off (latch at the rear underside of seat) and the yellow wire is connected with a mini spade connector to a GREEN wire. The GREEN wire goes down to the brake switch beside your right ankle I was mentioning before.

From your comments earlier I suspect you are a pretty large dude...dont force the seat back in to position, you will just bend the tab like I did. Slide the seat toward the tank on a slight angle til the tab goes under the little crossmember, then swat the back of the seat sort of forward and down.

I probably sound like a moron, but once you do it a couple of times its extremely easy.

[Jim]

]

Originally Posted by Reveeen

But, I maintain it's still more fun to blow them on with either (especially if you have an apprentice standing on the thing).

It definitely sounds like more fun, they don't do that at the tire shop I go to anymore though

[Reveeen]

they don't do that at the tire shop I go to anymore though

"They" ruined the "fun" a while back (15 yrs?), either (off the shelf) used to be really explosive, you could literally blow stuff up with it, quite easily too, but in the interest of "public safety", or maybe "they" were just being morons, it was re-formulated in it's current state, and I find myself, after a big feed of wieners and beans, more explosive, than what is currently being sold.

So the simple explanation for tire shops no longer blowing tires on with either is: they can't, it no longer works. (you get a good flame front, but no longer a "fast" flame front).

The "new" starting fluid is still quite capable of fubaring ceramic tipped injectors though, so not ALL is lost, because all "modern" (electronic) diesel engines use ceramic tipped injectors.

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by PCD

YELLOW WIRE: This could very well be the source of trouble. Pop the seat off (latch at the rear underside of seat) and the yellow wire is connected with a mini spade connector to a GREEN wire. The GREEN wire goes down to the brake switch beside your right ankle I was mentioning before.

From your comments earlier I suspect you are a pretty large dude...dont force the seat back in to position, you will just bend the tab like I did. Slide the seat toward the tank on a slight angle til the tab goes under the little crossmember, then swat the back of the seat sort of forward and down.

I probably sound like a moron, but once you do it a couple of times its extremely easy.

No worries on the seat, my other Gio's are the same setup. The 50cc is the worst of the three to replace. I had the seat off the Beast and was happy to see it comes on and off quite simply. Was even impressed you could get at the carb a lot easier too.

The wire you describe sounds like it's the circuit telling the coil it's okay to fire since the safety switch is active (brake depressed). With this one broken off, and the front brake switch sliced, it sounds like it's not getting that signal, causing the coil not to fire.

That's the simple explanation, although thinking back to my conversation with the seller, he did say he tried to rewire this thing to bypass this. He only pointed to the two wires coming out of the left bar though, where the starting/light controls are, and then showed me his splice job on the bottom in the harness.

I do hope this wire is the problem, because might be a head scratcher if not.

[MICRider]

Don't know if you tried it or not, but if you put a ratchet strap around the middle of the tire and tighten it up, it squeezes the sidewalls onto the bead a bit then you can try inflating it again. Usually works great. You can use a little dishsoap and water to lube the bead as well so that it seats easier. If the guys daughter rode it for so little time and there is no obvious damage to the tire it is probably fine. I think you picked up a major league bargain!

Regards,
Stew

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by TurboT

The wire you describe sounds like it's the circuit telling the coil it's okay to fire since the safety switch is active (brake depressed). With this one broken off, and the front brake switch sliced, it sounds like it's not getting that signal, causing the coil not to fire.

That's the simple explanation, although thinking back to my conversation with the seller, he did say he tried to rewire this thing to bypass this. He only pointed to the two wires coming out of the left bar though, where the starting/light controls are, and then showed me his splice job on the bottom in the harness.

I do hope this wire is the problem, because might be a head scratcher if not.

Either way, we'll likely be able to fix it on Saturday / Sunday if you have time. We can re-enable or disable the safety switches; your choice.

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

Either way, we'll likely be able to fix it on Saturday / Sunday if you have time. We can re-enable or disable the safety switches; your choice.

Sounds like a plan. I didn't think it was a big deal to get going again or I would've saved my money. Always good to have an idea of what goes where and what does what though!

I don't really care if the safety switches work or not, just want it to start and purr and roar through the trees.

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by PCD

Coil. I stand behind my answer in Misc.

Tailight is always on with seperate brakelight when brakes are applied. Tail is LED on mine, but could easily be incandecent on an older one...good ole Canadain tire 1157 if im not mistaken.

EDIT: Ahhh...so THATS how the front dash cover is supposed to look ....I'll have to fix mine up a bit...yours looks much neater.

So you knocked 50 bucks off the price for the colour? (Pete ducks)

I just rechecked my winning bid and I lied. 28 bucks for a pair of rears (thought it was 24) +5 + tax and if you dont combine it, say 20 for shipping, so yeah, 54 bucks or so for two new rears.

The GIO site lets you stall for 5 days before you have to pony up. I use that a lot to pick up other items to knock down shipping. I got 4 items once for 25 bucks shipping total.

Didn't see your edit.

Haha, wouldn't be the first choice for me for color, but it's okay. Shouldn't get shot by any hunters (by accident) in the woods on this thing that way. I like the red better than the orange ones. Black would be my choice though.

More going to be primarily as a unit to shit kick and relax on, as a break from the YZ. I've never ridden a 'sport style' quad before, so maybe it takes some effort too, but I know my bro in laws big Polaris is like a relaxing couch to ride compared to the constant wrestle the YZ provides. This is also for the wife or perhaps friends to ride if they don't have their own machines. Can't go wrong for the money spent so far!

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by MICRider

Don't know if you tried it or not, but if you put a ratchet strap around the middle of the tire and tighten it up, it squeezes the sidewalls onto the bead a bit then you can try inflating it again. Usually works great. You can use a little dishsoap and water to lube the bead as well so that it seats easier. If the guys daughter rode it for so little time and there is no obvious damage to the tire it is probably fine. I think you picked up a major league bargain!

Regards,
Stew

Hey Stew,

Thanks! I think I got a great bargain too! Considering I had company amongst forum members emailing this seller... not sure why I got the responses and nobody else did.. maybe we should compare notes!

W&G and I will be drinking beer and playing with it on the weekend, I'm sure we'll have more to report to the crowd here then on how it runs and how much more money I need to empty out of my account.

[Jim]

Your offer was better then mine. :wink: Not sure about the others. I'm not really in the market for an atv so that also played into my offer.

[TurboT]

Originally Posted by Jim

Your offer was better then mine. :wink: Not sure about the others. I'm not really in the market for an atv so that also played into my offer.

Hahaha.. fair enough. I didn't even really make the offer, just asked him if he'd part with it for less, since he wanted it gone... came back at me with the new price. I figured it was fair enough considering the 700+ pricetag new... way less than half new.