04-08-2017, 08:03 AM | #556 | |
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: East Pembroke, NY
Posts: 301
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Quote:
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Rides a 2016 Bashan 18C with Blue PlastiDip, piped and jetted, USB charger, real-time digital volt meter, faux carbon fiber handguards, 5 COB led headlight upgrade, auxiliary led light bars, and an MSR shift lever with new grips, T6 aluminum handlebars anodized in blue, polished handlebar brace, decals, HD Unibear chain and spoke covers waiting on the always-full mod shelf...... |
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04-08-2017, 01:06 PM | #557 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Quote:
Last edited by Ariel Red Hunter; 04-08-2017 at 01:08 PM. Reason: correction |
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04-08-2017, 01:16 PM | #558 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Ariel Owners Guide, pt2
I want you to think about not only the desired amount of throttle used in break-in (running-in), but the statement about many heat and cooling cycles, and it's influence on motor cycle engine life. In other words, don't blow through the running-in process in two or three days. Many short trips is the trick, according to them (and they are not the only ones to mention this)....ARH
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04-08-2017, 03:08 PM | #559 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Southern IL
Posts: 132
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I plan on running it in with those directions, just with a known good carb, proper jets and free-flowing exhaust.. you know, the stuff it should come with to start with LOL! I figure there's no point in fighting a lean condition and plugged pipe for that long, when most other bikes come set up properly. It'll be babied for those 1st 500 miles.
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04-08-2017, 03:12 PM | #560 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Southern IL
Posts: 132
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Actually, I doubt it will hardly ever see red line after break-in.
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04-08-2017, 03:18 PM | #561 |
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 436
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That's what I thought too !!!!!
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04-08-2017, 03:28 PM | #562 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Southern IL
Posts: 132
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Well, maybe once in a blue moon, but with my health issues, I can guarantee it'll be babied. It's mainly going to be used for getting to the woods, and weekend cruising on gravel backroads. It'll only see mud when I have no other option (who wants to spend an hour washing that off every time out?).
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04-08-2017, 03:44 PM | #563 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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04-08-2017, 03:53 PM | #564 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Oh, yeah. I am totally lost about how to do that kind of stuff....ARH
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04-08-2017, 04:00 PM | #565 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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04-08-2017, 09:59 PM | #566 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Southern IL
Posts: 132
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Yeah, I have jets on the way to get it close.. much closer than the stock carb. I ordered the 30 pilot and a 117.5 and 120 main. I'm only at 440Ft elevation, so I think I'll be close. Plug chops will be reserved for after break-in.
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04-10-2017, 01:09 PM | #567 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Valves.
Valve adjustments are really pretty easy to do. After all I did it. On the Red Hunter, I just put the little beastie in second gear, pulled the plug, rolled the rear wheel in the ahead direction, with my finger over the plug hole. When I felt pressure, I knew I was on the compression stroke. So then I stuck a drinking straw in the spark plug hole, rotated the rear wheel some more until the straw had come all the way up, and just started on the way back down. Then I checked the inlet and exhaust valve clearance by the Ariel method. "When you rotate the push rods, make sure that the inlet rotates freely, and the exhaust has just perceptable shake. That is the correct valve clearance." How nice it would be if it was that easy on a Hawk. But, even so, you don't have to be absolutely at top dead center, a few degrees past works fine. So, you don't have to be anal retentive about TDC, just past works just as well. See? It really is simple...ARH
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04-11-2017, 12:00 AM | #568 |
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 43
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This is the same file in .rtf format. It is larger than in Word format. Any Wordpad (the part of the Windows system) would be capable to open it.
Thank you. http://download2014.mediafireuserdow...Apr+5+2017.rtf |
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04-11-2017, 11:54 AM | #569 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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04-13-2017, 12:37 PM | #570 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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I was talking about J.A.P. engines the other day. Originally, all motorcycle engines had drip feed total loss oiling. Usually with a hand pump to give it a little more oil while hill climbing. About one pump every thirty seconds on a steep hill. The good feature of this system is that the engine always got fresh oil. The bad feature was that the engine didn't get enough oil to assist in cooling it. So, it limited horsepower. More horsepower means more heat. The oil was usually not fed to the bearings, it was squirted into the crank case, where the crankshaft whirled it into an oily fog, somewhat like a two stroke does. So, the J.A.P. engine for many years was a total loss engine, and, in fact, you can still buy an "80 Bore" J.A.P. engine new that is total loss oiling. For racing only, of course. But, the independent manufacturers of motor cycles that didn't make their own engines started to pressure JAP to provide an engine that had a dry sump system. So the 500cc and 350cc JAP's got a sort of hybred oiling system. It had pressure feed to the big end, and that was it. They had a v cast into the crank case walls so that oil spraying off of the crankpin onto the crank case walls, to run down to the v's and the vee's had a hole at the foot, and this allowed oil to drip on the main bearings. There was a hole cast in to the timing side case to allow oil mist to get to the cams and timing gears, which then ran down to a trench in the bottom of the timing case, where the cams would dip, picking up oil. But how to get the oil to the overhead valves and rockers? Crank case pumping. Yes, that's how they did it, by oil mist carried up by crank case pressure, and exhausted at the head through a ball valve which only let the air out. Usually a hose was attached to this valve to let the excess oil drip in the chains. While it sounds crazy, it worked....ARH
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