Brake it too me slowly!

[cycleway4]

hi Spins....if I understood correctly,....if you replaced the caliper, hose, and master cylinder from Jeff under the warranty, and didn't bleed them at the time,...I believe I would do a good bleeding of the system. you almost certainly have to have air in it.

[Mrmazak]

Originally Posted by Spins

Hey Guys, I was out riding last night and my master cylinder is failing again. My brake lever is slowly pulling to my bars at stops. It’s not as bad as before but definitely needs replacement. I only have around 700 miles on my bike and now this part has failed twice. There are no leaks that I could find. I didn’t bleed the brakes after Jeff replaced it under warranty the first time, I wanted to ride. I haven’t experienced any issues to date except the poor initial bite. So my question? Should I reorder from Jeff or where could a get a better quality part that would fit? I don’t mind spending a little more as I’d like to put this issue to bed.

I'm only caching onto the end of this thread, but you NEED to bleed brakes any and every time you remove the fittings,

This sounds absurd that you say you did not bleed the brakes when you replaced master cylinder

[Spins]

Jeff from Peace Sports sent me an entirely new master cylinder replacement with line , fluid , pads and caliber sealed from the factory.
My first master cylinder failed after bleeding and replacing the fluid in an attempt to firm up the brakes.

[Spins]

I understand if I opened the system it needs to be bleed. Not my first time doing brakes. Most guys hear say to replace the stock fluid. I did this the first go around and was met with issues, failed master cylinder.
I was considering bleeding them today as I really have nothing to loose, except some time and a few buck on new brake fluid. But I have a feeling it’s not gonna help. Air shouldn’t enter a sealed system.

[Mrmazak]

Originally Posted by Spins

I understand if I opened the system it needs to be bleed. Not my first time doing brakes. Most guys hear say to replace the stock fluid. I did this the first go around and was met with issues, failed master cylinder.
I was considering bleeding them today as I really have nothing to loose, except some time and a few buck on new brake fluid. But I have a feeling it’s not gonna help. Air shouldn’t enter a sealed system.

Well fading brake pressure happens when temp is extremely high ( boiling)

Which usually only happens when there is temp changes, and you have condensation. like when packages air flown at high altitude I cold environment, then used in hot environment. There is high chance of condensation, so could be boiling the water.

Just a speculation.

[tknj99]

Just a tip: if you have an oil extractor, it makes bleeding brakes extremely simple.. connect the extractor hose to the front master cylinder bleep nipple, apply a little suction, loosen the nut and watch the oil flow, simultaneous add fresh oil to the reservoir which will chase the oil fluid out, once you see clean fluid flowing out the bleed valve, tighten the nut and done. Repeat for the rear.

[Spins]

Thanks,
I actually purchased an inexpensive vacuum pump brake bleeder Jerry Hawk recommended. I tried this the first go around with this bike. Then the pump hold open the valve , tighten and repeat.
My rears are drum.

[Spins]

Well, I bled the front brakes and installed new DOT 4 brake fluid. I ended up with the same results. Actually , the handle is worse, good and hard but pulls into the bar faster than last night.

The fluid was dark in color and of course one screw wouldn’t budge from the reservoir. It stripped so I used my drimel to cut it and into the lid to get a bite with a flat blade screwdriver. I used my spare parts from the old one as replacements, glad I didn’t toss them.
So the bike is parked. Sux!
I just did some maintenance an now this.

[Deckard_Cain]

Originally Posted by Spins

Well, I bled the front brakes and installed new DOT 4 brake fluid. I ended up with the same results. Actually , the handle is worse, good and hard but pulls into the bar faster than last night.

The fluid was dark in color and of course one screw wouldn’t budge from the reservoir. It stripped so I used my drimel to cut it and into the lid to get a bite with a flat blade screwdriver. I used my spare parts from the old one as replacements, glad I didn’t toss them.
So the bike is parked. Sux!
I just did some maintenance an now this.

Have you considered trying one of the aftermarket brake master/reservoir/handle combos available on ebay/Amazon?

Maybe the stock style master cylinder just sucks for longevity.

[Spins]

I have one on order right now.

[JohnC]

I find this all pretty interesting considering the front brakes on my 2020 Brozz, will easily put you over the bars if you get really aggressive with them. Seems all the discussion here is on target. Something is definitely wrong with this bike. And changing the fluid is where I would start.


John

[Spins]

Originally Posted by JohnC

I find this all pretty interesting considering the front brakes on my 2020 Brozz, will easily put you over the bars if you get really aggressive with them. Seems all the discussion here is on target. Something is definitely wrong with this bike. And changing the fluid is where I would start.


John

I wish!

It seems to be hit or miss with these bikes. I have drums on the back which sux. Okay on dirt but on the street they barely do anything. I’ve adjusted them as far as I can till I hear the hub not dragging.

The fronts have always sux. No bite . I’ve cleaned the crap out of the rotor before installing it. And I’ve sanded the pads attempt to remove any glaze.
I attempted to bed them as another member here suggested. This seemed to help some. But my CRF rear brake has more stopping power than both my brakes combined on the Brozz.
I jumped on the Brozz after riding that CRF a few days ago and the Brozz is
honestly a little dangerous. Don’t get me wrong, I love the Brozz. Just wish I could figure this out.

I’m Spinning my wheels here!

[david3921]

Just curious, is the brake line you received braided or rubber?

[Spins]

They are rubber.

[Spins]

Well, I finally was able to replace my front master cylinder. I ordered two from Amazon. The first had an 8mm mirror opening with the brake line connection in the stock location on the end. I ended up ordering a second one with the stock 10 mm mirror opening with the connect on the front. It worked I just had to reroute the line slightly as my bark busters were in the way. I bled the brakes and the lever is hard, it’s never been this firm before. Took her for a spin around the neighborhood and at first the brakes felt ok but just like before no bite. I put some gear on and hit the road . Brakes seemed to improve the more I rode. I actually heard the front tires start to squill as I hit the brake hard to make a u turn . Never heard that before. I’m calling her fixed. Hopefully no more brake issues. I had such I smile on my face riding tonight. I’ve never had so much fun going slow!
Here’s the link to the one I installed.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FKNQ7L4...ing=UTF8&psc=1