Templar X 250

[tknj99]

Originally Posted by Huck369

I may have found the fix for those of us having issues with the rear brake, I took the rear slider bolt off, and left the lock washer off, and reinstalled with lock-tight, the Lock washer was causing the caliper to not have enough space, removing that lock washer made it work as it should.
PS, the headlight sucks, I'll end up adding some Aux Lighting

Confused about what you did. Any pics? How would it be better than adding a large washer inside the swingarm after the brake stay?

[Huck369]

Originally Posted by tknj99

Confused about what you did. Any pics? How would it be better than adding a large washer inside the swingarm after the brake stay?

Sorry, didn't think to take pics.....if I get time I might try to get some later....
The caliper is mounted off a spacer on the axle, not off the swing arm, and the rotor is mounted off the wheel, so adding the washer by the swing arm doesn't affect the spacing of the caliper, with removing the lock washer from the rear slider pin it allows the caliper to move the thickness of that washer further toward the wheel, which is where it needs additional space, the front slider is made differently, and has the extra clearance already.

[JRust]

Originally Posted by Huck369

Sorry, didn't think to take pics.....if I get time I might try to get some later....
The caliper is mounted off a spacer on the axle, not off the swing arm, and the rotor is mounted off the wheel, so adding the washer by the swing arm doesn't affect the spacing of the caliper, with removing the lock washer from the rear slider pin it allows the caliper to move the thickness of that washer further toward the wheel, which is where it needs additional space, the front slider is made differently, and has the extra clearance already.

I will have to try the lock washer removal. I agree that adding a washer on the swingarm side of the brake mount should not affect the brake position relative to the rotor? They are still mounted against each other.

[clezummavrider]

Originally Posted by Huck369

I may have found the fix for those of us having issues with the rear brake, I took the rear slider bolt off, and left the lock washer off, and reinstalled with lock-tight, the Lock washer was causing the caliper to not have enough space, removing that lock washer made it work as it should.
PS, the headlight sucks, I'll end up adding some Aux Lighting

This is awesome, will make the change and keep the washer for best of both worlds, at least on my bike the rear swingarm is not aligning in parallel to the face of the axle spacer so the washer helps mitigate some of the angle.

[JRust]

I need a little help. I messed up a few of my rear spoke nipples trying to true my wheel. I’ve been to 3 different local shops trying to get replacement nipples with no luck. All the ones they have are too small. Anyone know what size I need and where to get them?

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by JRust

I need a little help. I messed up a few of my rear spoke nipples trying to true my wheel. I’ve been to 3 different local shops trying to get replacement nipples with no luck. All the ones they have are too small. Anyone know what size I need and where to get them?

Contact PSM. No kidding. They have a line to Zuumav.

[JRust]

Originally Posted by Thumper

Contact PSM. No kidding. They have a line to Zuumav.

Do you have a contact?

[Thumper]

service@maxpro-llc.com

Tell them the model number. They have the wheels (laced, with hub, bearings and seals) as well.

[JRust]

Originally Posted by Thumper

service@maxpro-llc.com

Tell them the model number. They have the wheels (laced, with hub, bearings and seals) as well.

Thanks. I am emailing them now.

[chinazuki]

when checking/adjusting valves....is there a TDC mark, or pull the plug and watch the piston/valves?

....bypassing the brake switch on starting (to allow push start) has that been done?

[Hap]

Originally Posted by chinazuki

when checking/adjusting valves....is there a TDC mark, or pull the plug and watch the piston/valves?

....bypassing the brake switch on starting (to allow push start) has that been done?

I don’t know. But that’s a good idea. Without a backup kickstart.

[JRust]

Originally Posted by chinazuki

when checking/adjusting valves....is there a TDC mark, or pull the plug and watch the piston/valves?

....bypassing the brake switch on starting (to allow push start) has that been done?

Yes, it’s on the left side of the engine.

[tknj99]

Help! Despite having opened up a few of these youall tamper proof carbs on other bikes, this one wound up being a fail due to the screws being red locktited in, i wound up having to break the bowl off and now need to order a replacement. Which one for the Templar X (6-speed) a PE28 or PE30. I already have the 125 main and 42 pilot i plan to use. Thanks

[Thumper]

Originally Posted by tknj99

Help! Despite having opened up a few of these youall tamper proof carbs on other bikes, this one wound up being a fail due to the screws being red locktited in, i wound up having to break the bowl off and now need to order a replacement. Which one for the Templar X (6-speed) a PE28 or PE30. I already have the 125 main and 42 pilot i plan to use. Thanks

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost...09&postcount=7

I posted the solution for this. It is #7 in

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31439
in the Video and Pics section.

Grind off the head, bowl comes right off...then the stem of the bolt is easy to extract. Yes, it has threadlocker, but still comes out.

[JRust]

Originally Posted by tknj99

Help! Despite having opened up a few of these youall tamper proof carbs on other bikes, this one wound up being a fail due to the screws being red locktited in, i wound up having to break the bowl off and now need to order a replacement. Which one for the Templar X (6-speed) a PE28 or PE30. I already have the 125 main and 42 pilot i plan to use. Thanks

I was also surprised by the red loctite on the carb. I ended up grinding off the top of the screws which allowed the bowl to be removed. I then used some vice grips to unscrew the studs. Replaced them with some screws from the hardware store.