Brozz Swingarm Upgrade??

[asheck]

No worries, I'm leaving today for at least a week, so it's on hold till I get back. I found this one on ebay. https://www.ebay.com/itm/15-Bashan-D...53.m1438.l2649
Is it similar to yours?

[emptypockets]

I received my rear swing arm kit from Peace, nicely packaged, all the parts I needed, and arrived quickly, so that was fantastic!

The swing arm basically bolts right on and looks nice.

One problem I had with the Hawk was the bracket for the rear caliper was machined poorly, and the top bolt boss stuck out too far and caused the the caliper to rub slightly on the rotor. I took the angle grinder to that and ground it down flush. That was a Hawk manufacturing defect and didn't hit the breaking surface. Fortunately, the Hawk only uses the top 1/3 of the rotor

You can see the rubbing on the rotor:

Also, the new swing arm is still china quality machine work, and the adjuster bolt sticks out so that only half the bolt head sits on the adjuster, as you can see. Not a huge issue. The tick marks are slightly off from side to side.


Everything lined up nicely on the sprocket side. I still had to cut the ridge off the chain slider because it wasn't lined up with the front sprocket. There doesn't seem to be a way to adjust the front sprocket further out on the motor. The chain has always been a littler closer to the tire than I would like.

The original Hawk swing arm had a rubber bushing and a steel sleeve where the main bolt runs through. The rubber seems to have deteriorated over around 1,500 miles of trail riding. The sleeve is no longer centered and this probably created some rear end slop:


Overall, I'm happy with this upgrade and I'm looking forward to taking it out next weekend for a test run.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by emptypockets

Also, the new swing arm is still china quality machine work, and the adjuster bolt sticks out so that only half the bolt head sits on the adjuster, as you can see. Not a huge issue. The tick marks are slightly off from side to side.

The adjusters are too far out at that point and you need to shorten your chain. I at first thought the same thing until I realized that I was almost at the limit of the chain adjustment on the sliders. I took out two links from my 520 chain and now my adjusters are in full contact and my axle is centered in the adjustment range. Here is a picture of my chain before removing two links. Notice how much slack there is? Too much.



In this picture you can see where the axle and adjuster sits after shortening the chain 2 links. I can still quite easily slide the wheel forward and loop the chain off of the rear sprocket. You are correct that the adjustment notches are slightly off, but unlike the original swing arm it is much easier to simply measure the distance from the adjuster to the end of the axle. Or in my case, I know exactly where to set one side in relation to the other.

Originally Posted by emptypockets

The original Hawk swing arm had a rubber bushing and a steel sleeve where the main bolt runs through. The rubber seems to have deteriorated over around 1,500 miles of trail riding. The sleeve is no longer centered and this probably created some rear end slop:
Attachment 21486

That rubber tends to fail due to a lack of lubrication on the pivot point. The sleeve binds on the swing arm bolt and creates heat and shearing forces that tear apart the rubber. This is why it is advised to add a grease zerk to the swing arm, or to regularly lubricate those sleeves and the bolt. I have the same amount of miles on my old swing arm and the rubber is still solid.

[Megadan]

As another side note when using this swing arm on a Hawk, if you wish to avoid the increase in ride height after installing this swing arm you will want to install a 10-15mm shorter shock. Roughly 305mm, which I do believe is the stock Brozz shock length, or at least very close to it.

That might be a good optional extra to include with the swing arm kit, a Brozz rear shock.

[emptypockets]

Originally Posted by Megadan

As another side note when using this swing arm on a Hawk, if you wish to avoid the increase in ride height after installing this swing arm you will want to install a 10-15mm shorter shock. Roughly 305mm, which I do believe is the stock Brozz shock length, or at least very close to it.

That might be a good optional extra to include with the swing arm kit, a Brozz rear shock.

I could use a new shock, I thought you posted a link to one you got, but now I can't find it. Now that you have it, do you still like that shock? If so, can you re-post the link?

I don't know why I didn't think about taking a few links out of the chain. I'll try that next.

Originally Posted by Megadan

That rubber tends to fail due to a lack of lubrication on the pivot point. The sleeve binds on the swing arm bolt and creates heat and shearing forces that tear apart the rubber. This is why it is advised to add a grease zerk to the swing arm, or to regularly lubricate those sleeves and the bolt. I have the same amount of miles on my old swing arm and the rubber is still solid.

There was certainly something go on in there. The new one has as much axle grease as I could get to stay in the hole.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by emptypockets

I could use a new shock, I thought you posted a link to one you got, but now I can't find it. Now that you have it, do you still like that shock? If so, can you re-post the link?

I never linked it because it is currently unavailable. Plus, it won't do you much good unless you also want to lower the back end a bit.

If you are interested this is the link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There are some on ebay from third parties for around 100 bucks or so if you do want one and cannot wait.

Originally Posted by emptypockets

There was certainly something go on in there. The new one has as much axle grease as I could get to stay in the hole.

That's why the grease zerk is the best way to go about it. Then you can just give it a shot every once in a while to keep it greased and fresh. Otherwise you have to pull it apart from time to time and re grease it.

[emptypockets]

Originally Posted by Megadan

That's why the grease zerk is the best way to go about it. Then you can just give it a shot every once in a while to keep it greased and fresh. Otherwise you have to pull it apart from time to time and re grease it.

Would you drill a hole through the outer tube, the rubber, and the inner sleeve to install the zerk?

If I had a bolt the same size, I could tap it through with more grease and tap it back out to keep everything lined up, and not have to take everything apart.

[emptypockets]

The shock is indeed a hard size to find. I've found this shock: https://www.ebay.com/itm/310mm-12-2-...AAAOSwgKRdodxf

It appears to be the one used in this video:


I don't know how much better that is than the stock hawk shock though. Looks bouncy.

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by emptypockets

Would you drill a hole through the outer tube, the rubber, and the inner sleeve to install the zerk?

If I had a bolt the same size, I could tap it through with more grease and tap it back out to keep everything lined up, and not have to take everything apart.

Most guys that do it just drill and tap the center of the tube where the shaft passes through and install one zerk. Then they just fill the entire thing up from the center out, and that forces grease out both sides to keep it lubed.

Me, personally, I just tear it all down once a year and clean it up and re grease it all. Like you I just try to get as much as I can on the bolt and in the sleeves with my fingers and a long q tip. I work the shaft/bolt back and forth and spin it around to try and distribute everything evenly, and call it a day. I go through that because I also grease the shock bolts and bushings as well, which will need it too, and its only one more step by that point anyway.

Originally Posted by emptypockets

The shock is indeed a hard size to find. I've found this shock: https://www.ebay.com/itm/310mm-12-2-...AAAOSwgKRdodxf

It appears to be the one used in this video:


I don't know how much better that is than the stock hawk shock though. Looks bouncy.

It can't be any worse than the Hawk shock, and it has adjustable preload, which is an improvement. Also a single rate spring, which I prefer more. My only word of precaution would be the spring rate being 900lb/in. If you are north of 200lbs it may prove to a be a little on the light side.

[emptypockets]

Originally Posted by Megadan

Most guys that do it just drill and tap the center of the tube where the shaft passes through and install one zerk. Then they just fill the entire thing up from the center out, and that forces grease out both sides to keep it lubed.

That would be ideal, but I'll probably screw up the drilling and tapping part.

Originally Posted by Megadan

It can't be any worse than the Hawk shock, and it has adjustable preload, which is an improvement. Also a single rate spring, which I prefer more. My only word of precaution would be the spring rate being 900lb/in. If you are north of 200lbs it may prove to a be a little on the light side.

I'm going to give it a try. I think a softer ride might be beneficial. I mostly enduro ride on rocky jeep trails in the mountains. That is usually at slow speeds, 20 MPH or less. I don't really do big jumps or motocross type stuff.

[antibodyarmy]

It would be neat if there was also a full swing-arm assembly kit. Like the existing kit + rear break caliper assembly + bracket, and a full wheel/tire assembly. for more of a drop in kit for all the tbr7's that maay not quite fit with the stock wheel/tire and break assembly.

I'm still waiting a couple weeks till i buy a hawk250, but the longer I've been waiting there are some nuances that the tbr7 sounds nicer than the hawk to me in lol. Either bike I buy I'm slapping a brozz 250 rear end on, it just looks so much better.

The stock rear break setup on the tbr7 looks quite a bit different from the hawk250, so the people saying the $75 kit didn't fit might be right.

If peace has noticed some nice order numbers of that swing arm kit, I don't doubt a good portion of people looking at that kit would be willing to pay a little more for a drop in assembly (especially if its literally just for a spare tire, and break caliper).

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by antibodyarmy

It would be neat if there was also a full swing-arm assembly kit. Like the existing kit + rear break caliper assembly + bracket, and a full wheel/tire assembly. for more of a drop in kit for all the tbr7's that maay not quite fit with the stock wheel/tire and break assembly.

I'm still waiting a couple weeks till i buy a hawk250, but the longer I've been waiting there are some nuances that the tbr7 sounds nicer than the hawk to me in lol. Either bike I buy I'm slapping a brozz 250 rear end on, it just looks so much better.

The stock rear break setup on the tbr7 looks quite a bit different from the hawk250, so the people saying the $75 kit didn't fit might be right.

If peace has noticed some nice order numbers of that swing arm kit, I don't doubt a good portion of people looking at that kit would be willing to pay a little more for a drop in assembly (especially if its literally just for a spare tire, and break caliper).

That's not a bad idea. The best thing I would suggest would be to send a message to PeaceSportsAtlanta, the OP, and talk to him about what it would cost to add a Brozz rear wheel, rotor, caliper, and bracket to the order. Just don't be too surprised if it takes the kit from $75 to $200+.

I suggest doing it this way so he actually can have the inventory on hand. OTherwise you could be in for a long wait.

[antibodyarmy]

Originally Posted by Megadan

That's not a bad idea. The best thing I would suggest would be to send a message to PeaceSportsAtlanta, the OP, and talk to him about what it would cost to add a Brozz rear wheel, rotor, caliper, and bracket to the order. Just don't be too surprised if it takes the kit from $75 to $200+.

I suggest doing it this way so he actually can have the inventory on hand. OTherwise you could be in for a long wait.

Noted, I sent a email to their parts department.

I would not mind it being the $200+ at that price of the kit its well worth it with the parts that are meant to work together. it turns into a cost vs time comparison, a few extra bucks can easily make up for the headache and time of trying to align the breaks and making up spacers.

heck with all the posts about broken wheel spokes, I was planning on a spare set of tires just to have so I can swap them out and work on the spokes on my own time, not being reliant on fixing them right away just to get back out on the trails/road.

[asheck]

Hey, did you ever throw a measurement on your rotor?

[Megadan]

Originally Posted by asheck

Hey, did you ever throw a measurement on your rotor?

I did actually, and then completely spaced posting it up here lol. It is 1.25 inches from the rotor to the inner part of the swing arm, so it is exactly the same in that regard.