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Old 01-28-2017, 02:06 PM   #76
BigWeld   BigWeld is offline
 
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Originally Posted by pistolclass View Post
Brozz is the premium bike but it has drum rear and 19/17 tires combo? I dont understand Chinese business.They should build a USD, 21/18, counterbalanced, disc brake model. IMHO.
absofrigginlutely.

Throw in a Brozz-style rear rack and orange body work, then TAKE MY MONEY!


 
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Old 02-01-2017, 09:04 PM   #77
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It looks like APUSCA took off the 3 day new years sale and it is going for $1049 plus shipping as their regular price! Instead of $1499 with free shipping. Their shipping quotes were around $180-$250.


 
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:00 PM   #78
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My only fear with this bike is, while it has the same engine found across the entire Bashan lineup, is the rest of it might be lacking in quality. Bashan has done 'low-end' bikes before, such as the Blaze and the Will, and they did leave some bad taste in members' mouths vs. the more premium bikes like the Storm, and as time will tell, the Brozz and Shark (initially highly regarded, but these are early reports, and I am sure as time moves on, they will be just as embraced as all the Storm owners embraced their bikes).

The point is, I just don't get this bike--no rack, same exact engine as the other Bashans, but not sure what else this bike has, or lacks, to make it a couple hundred (maybe less) than their more premium bikes.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:07 PM   #79
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If we could just see the dam thing in multi views with close ups. You almost think it is hidden on purpose



Here's a fairly clear view, doesn't look like my counterbalanced engine. It this the same mill as the hawk? (Probably, no harm there either)
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:19 PM   #80
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that pic looks like a hawk with a new name. maybe a importer thing they had to do maybe. different name for a different importer????


 
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:22 PM   #81
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that pic looks like a hawk with a new name. maybe a importer thing they had to do maybe. different name for a different importer????
And a DOT label
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:26 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by BlackBike View Post
If we could just see the dam thing in multi views with close ups. You almost think it is hidden on purpose

Here's a fairly clear view, doesn't look like my counterbalanced engine. It this the same mill as the hawk? (Probably, no harm there either)
I DO see the purpose of this bike--to go head to head with the Hawk.
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Old 02-01-2017, 11:29 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by culcune View Post
I DO see the purpose of this bike--to go head to head with the Hawk.
I could here the light bulb flicker in your head clear out here in South Texas.
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Old 02-02-2017, 04:48 AM   #84
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YES THEY SHOULD!! BUT, you won't hear me complain about my rear master cylinder sticking down to far. They should have put the USD forks, digital gauge cluster, and the Counter Balanced motor on the Enforcer. WAIT A MINUTE, we just described the TT 250, so there ya go. But they are trying to meet the price of the Hawk, I guess.
Yes, I agree. To me, in my production engineer days, this was the challenge I loved. To be able to produce the most quality and still meet a price point. So the trade offs. I've written before that you begin with a very tough frame. The frame is the foundation of the vehicle. If it fails in use, catastrophe, both for the owner and the manufacturer. Then you hang the bits on. If you are looking for the lowest cost quality product to manufacture, you don't put a counterbalanced engine in it. Or an OHC engine. You put in the most reliable push-rod engine you can get. As far as rear brakes go, any brake that you can modulate, and has enough power to lock up the rear wheel is brake enough. A disc rear brake is what I call bling. Pretty, but un-necessary. Upside-down forks? Hard to hold price line with those. Even the simple Hawk went too far on the bling vs reliability problem. Poor quality chain, atrocious swing arm bushings, too light spokes for reliability. Would I trade that disc brake rear for better spokes, chain and s/a bushings? Where do I sign up!


 
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Old 02-02-2017, 05:15 AM   #85
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yer...
but if yer ride a lot of water , mud or steep down hills
disc's keep working & have alot more feel..

for a easy trail ride a rear drum is ok.... thats
the hawks intended use....





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Old 02-02-2017, 10:03 AM   #86
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Much like the earlier Hondoids being branded different names and imported by different importers, this is most likely made of all the same parts from the different Chinese parts manufacturers, is assembled at whoever's factory and is just branded a different name by a different importer. It's not like Bashan or Haosen actuall;y makes each and every part for these things.
Looks like a Hawk to me.....with a DOT sticker.
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:31 AM   #87
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Way back in the day, there was a brand called Hibird who had a dual-sport which was near identical to the Lifan GY 2 (as opposed to Lifan's GY 5). It turned out, from what I could figure out, that Hibird was a subcontractor for Lifan at the time. Not sure what kind of relationship they had that Hibird could manufacture a near-identical bike to Lifan's GY-2 and sell it here, but they did. Thinking back, the GY-2 was not as popular as the GY 5, and I don't even think it was DOT approved, either. Not too long after that, Hibird started marketing and selling what would become a very hot seller for that time period here on Chinariders, their '250' endure, which was the first, or near-first, but most popular even if it wasn't the first, '250cc' enduro bike (I believe 223cc) in N. America.

This bike is (thanks to better, closer photos which are much more clear) obviously trying to out-Hawk the Hawk. And, as you pointed out 2LZ--complete with DOT certification vs. the off-road certification for the Hawk (not that that has hurt sales of the Hawk too much, but still...).

I was wondering (again, with the poor, tiny photos we had) what was the point of this bike, but now with its very Hawk-like demeanor, it is obvious!
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Old 02-04-2017, 09:31 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pete View Post
yer...
but if yer ride a lot of water , mud or steep down hills
disc's keep working & have alot more feel..

for a easy trail ride a rear drum is ok.... thats
the hawks intended use....





.
On the water and mud issue, I used to use a hacksaw to cut grooves in the brake linings at an angle to "screw" the water off of the linings. Worked pretty good.


 
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Old 02-06-2017, 09:53 PM   #89
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Originally Posted by Ariel Red Hunter View Post
On the water and mud issue, I used to use a hacksaw to cut grooves in the brake linings at an angle to "screw" the water off of the linings. Worked pretty good.
ARH, no offense intended but, when you post things like this the movie "worlds fastest Indian" comes to mind. Where he was in his shed casting his own pistons out of scrap, filling cracks in his tires with shoe polish, and dropping nitro pills in the gas tank for some extra KICK. Guys like you are a fading breed and I appreciate you bestowing your knowledge upon us. Cutting grooves in the brake shoes is genius. A cool trick that I may try. Brake shoes for these things are cheap so If I mess some up I'm not out much. Did you go all the way to the metal backing of the shoe?
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Old 02-07-2017, 07:46 AM   #90
Ariel Red Hunter   Ariel Red Hunter is offline
 
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Originally Posted by letsride View Post
ARH, no offense intended but, when you post things like this the movie "worlds fastest Indian" comes to mind. Where he was in his shed casting his own pistons out of scrap, filling cracks in his tires with shoe polish, and dropping nitro pills in the gas tank for some extra KICK. Guys like you are a fading breed and I appreciate you bestowing your knowledge upon us. Cutting grooves in the brake shoes is genius. A cool trick that I may try. Brake shoes for these things are cheap so If I mess some up I'm not out much. Did you go all the way to the metal backing of the shoe?
I cut the grooves about half the thickness of the lining. I've used a small rat-tailed file to cut grooves too. One every inch. If you do this, make sure you cut the groove to screw the water OUT, not into the back of the drum. Do I have to tell you how I found that out? I also ground away a little notch in the backing plate, on the bottom edge to get the water out faster. You will still have to drag the brake to dry it off, but for a lot less distance. It doesn't clear as fast as a disc brake, but almost. ARH


 
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