01-03-2018, 07:16 PM | #106 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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Megadan, where did you put your washers to fix the loose sprocket? My sprocket has groves on the one side that the "middle oblong portion" of the bolt fits into. If I put the washers there the bolt wouldn't fit well in the grove. Did you put it on the other side? "the section that has no threads" aka. (nut / threaded area/ sprocket/ wide area of bolt/ WASHER / wheel)
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01-03-2018, 07:23 PM | #107 |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Thin wave washers were put on the back side of the sprocket. The little lip that sticks out will bend out of the way, but if it bugs you enough you can trim them back to sit in the groove better
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01-03-2018, 07:34 PM | #108 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Quote:
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01-04-2018, 11:37 AM | #109 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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Thanks, I squirted a bunch into the hole, then greased the bolt and pushed the bolt through the hole. A bunch of grease came out the other end on the bolt threads so it made its way all the way through the chamber. Is there any other points to grease while the bike is in pieces?
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01-04-2018, 01:02 PM | #110 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Quote:
It can't hurt to put a little grease on the rear brake lever pivot point on the frame, but this isn't a super critical thing to do. It will also require new cotter pins for the brake lever and the pin on the master cylinder clevis. Other than that, a coating of grease on the front and rear axles during assembly is a good idea. Maybe a light coat on the lever pivots for the clutch and brake at the handlebars. Cleaning and lubricating the throttle and clutch cable comes to mind, but I don't recommend grease for that. I prefer PJ1 cable lube, but take your pick.
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01-04-2018, 07:33 PM | #111 |
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: George West, Texas
Posts: 4,097
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Grease is a dirty, inconvenient thing to have to deal with on the assembly line with these cheap bikes. Not really a down side for the manufact since they will be split up and wholesaled to death to all corners of the planet be fore some retail consumer discovers the dry steering bearings in the yoak.
As MEGA says, be as proactive as possible. As your well aware, it's your ass on the seat
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01-05-2018, 02:00 PM | #112 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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Thanks for the advice. By front and rear axle, you mean that bar that goes thought the bearing holes on the tire right? The one that holds the tire to the bike. Also, I keep going back to the wheel bearings, I think I would like to change them out anyways to be safe, but cant am concerned that I am not getting the right part (wrong number, cheap china stuff marked as good stuff on amazon/etc). Was gonna purchase them before as well but then ran into the numbers not matching up exactly (like the nachi above which has the 6302 2rs on it, but also a different number as well). Any thoughts on reliable/trustworthy web sites to order the bearings?
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01-05-2018, 06:27 PM | #113 | |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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Quote:
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01-06-2018, 12:33 AM | #114 |
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: robertsdale alabama usa
Posts: 1,007
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your sooooo bad!
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1991 harley heritage softail classic 2016 hawk kaw h1 400 tripple 13' long chopper in progress 2009 johnny pag bar hog 2004 hd electra glide ultra classic shriner edition 1997 harley davidson 1200 sportster 1972 harley davidson amf sx250 |
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01-06-2018, 03:05 AM | #115 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Quote:
As far as the Nachi bearings, they just use their own codes to designate certain features I.E. 6302-2NSE is a 6302 bearing with 2 rubber seals. The NSE designation is to identify them as Rubber, contact style seals - the seals make contact with the inner ring surface. This makes them highly dust resistant and water resistant. I run Nachi bearings on my bike. 6301-2NSE9 C3 front and 6302-2NSE9 C3 rear. This is the company I ordered mine from, but you can search around for a better price. Fronts: https://cnc-specialty-store.com/bear...7x12-sealed-c3 Rears: https://cnc-specialty-store.com/bear...2x13-sealed-c3 The previously mentioned All Balls Racing individual bearings. Front: https://www.allballsracing.com/catal...t/view/id/3764 Rear: https://www.allballsracing.com/catal...t/view/id/3765 The Nachi bearings are going to be unquestionable in terms of quality, but cost a little more. The All Balls Racing bearings are good as well, and a bit cheaper. I run All Balls bearings on my Goldwing and have had good luck with them. So order how you see fit. Just don't forget to order 2 of each.
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01-06-2018, 03:24 PM | #116 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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Thanks, I ordered the Nachi. Better safe than sorry (^_^).
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01-06-2018, 03:43 PM | #117 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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Did anyone else notice that the front sprocket is just as loose as the rear one was? I added the washers to the back and now it is tight (thanks megadan). But haven't done anything with the front sprocket yet because it still has a cover over it. I will remove the cover and take a look at the sprocket, maybe I can tighten it down or something. Anyone else have a loose one?
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01-06-2018, 04:02 PM | #118 | |
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 8,100
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Quote:
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01-06-2018, 05:19 PM | #119 |
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: akwesasne, NY-13655
Posts: 2,220
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What? Do you think I should have added "But I'm always willing to be educated?" ARH
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01-11-2018, 09:39 PM | #120 |
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 62
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My new bearings have arrived. Now I am having a lot of difficulties getting the old bearings out of the wheel. Anyone have any tips or tricks for getting them out?
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