Weldangrind's New TW200 Billy Goat

[FastDoc]

Wonderful work Weld. I respect your craftsmanship, and thrift! 8)

Good work helping, Brother Spud. :wink:

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by MICRider

I noticed on the pic of the engine that the carb has what looks more like a enricher plunger than a choke lever, does the TW use a CV type carb?

It has what I'd call an enricher plunger, and it doesn't have a conventional choke door. It's a round slide though, without a CV-style diaphragm. It has the dual throttle cable setup that Spud mentioned.

[Weldangrind]

I made a little progress today. I started the fabrication process on the tail light / license plate frame, using a scrap piece of stainless I had. Sucksqueezebangblow dropped by and whipped up a temporary dash out of sheet metal, but I haven't drilled it out or painted it yet.

I mounted the stainless frame to two nuts that I presume were originally used for the rear fender, but I don't have one. As far as I can tell, I don't need one.



I'm happy enough with how it works with the bodywork.





I found a small 12 volt 5 amp gel cell battery in the scrap pile, and it was holding a charge. I tried it in the bike, and it's powerful enough to start the engine. That saves me a few bucks for now.

[SpudRider]

The two holes in the frame were designed to support the rear fender. You're correct; you don't need the fender. Your tail light looks great!

Spud

[Weldangrind]

Thanks! I haven't finished it yet; I still need to weld a piece to the bottom to support the license plate. I think it'll work ok.

[katoranger]

It is coming together. Great use of leftover parts.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by katoranger

It is coming together. Great use of leftover parts.

Thanks! You're a good inspiration for recycling parts. I thought you might appreciate the scrap pile battery.

[katoranger]

I was going through batteries the other day trying to find a good one for the lawnmower.

My tractor just received a new hood and will be getting a power upgrade soon. Have a 13hp kohler with electric start on the way. FREE just needs a carb repair. Will be able to charge a battery for lights and the winch.

[gloud]

I have read on several forums that you can rejuvenate the faded plastics with a heat gun. I guess you heat up a spot (making sure you don't melt it!)
and then use a cleaner and buff it. If you do a search on google you may find more info. I know I saw it on ADV.

[Weldangrind]

I already learned how to melt plastic with a heat gun. I was trying to remove some shoddy decals, and I over did it. :(

I might use Krylon Fusion and paint the plastics a different colour, somewhere down the road. Thanks for the tip, though.

[gloud]

Well thats why I warned about it. (Been there done that) On my 78 DT175E I just repainted the plastics, has held up fine for the last year both onroad (daily rider 40 miles round trip) and some off road. Only issues has been the wear on the sidepanels when in mud off road the riding boot rub when I am up on the pegs, (90% of the time offroad) Other than that I have been very happy and the bike looks great.

[Weldangrind]

Originally Posted by gloud

Well thats why I warned about it. (Been there done that) On my 78 DT175E I just repainted the plastics, has held up fine for the last year both onroad (daily rider 40 miles round trip) and some off road. Only issues has been the wear on the sidepanels when in mud off road the riding boot rub when I am up on the pegs, (90% of the time offroad) Other than that I have been very happy and the bike looks great.

Please show us pics in the Other Stuff forum.

[Weldangrind]

I tried to take care of some of the details that are low-impact. I've finished soldering the rear LED signals, the brake and tail light, the headlight and the battery extension leads. The bike will start on the 12v 4.5a battery, but it struggles.

I mounted the rear LED signals and I drilled out the mounting holes on the front incandescent signals and mounted them as well. I began the process of drilling the holes in the sheetmetal dash for the ignition switch and the inidcator lights.

The indicator lights are puzzling me. The turn indicator only works in one direction, which is exactly what I expected; since it's a diode, it will only allow current to pass in one direction. I can correct that by adding a second LED, and grounding both of them. That will give me a left and right indicator, which is fine with me.

What puzzles me is that the neutral light flashes when the left signal is on, but not when the engine is in neutral. on top of that, the neutral light comes on when the bike is in any gear, but not in neutral (sort of a reverse neutral light). I tried a diode in every configuration I could think of, and I could not get the neutral light to stop flashing when the left signal is on. Odd. I'll look at it again tomorrow.

[SpudRider]

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

...What puzzles me is that the neutral light flashes when the left signal is on, but not when the engine is in neutral. on top of that, the neutral light comes on when the bike is in any gear, but not in neutral (sort of a reverse neutral light). I tried a diode in every configuration I could think of, and I could not get the neutral light to stop flashing when the left signal is on. Odd. I'll look at it again tomorrow.

That's weird. :? The neutral sending unit is located down by the countershaft sprocket, under the left crankcase cover. Did you remove the left crankcase cover when you trimmed the hole in it? I'm just wondering if you inspected the countershaft sprocket, and had a chance to examine the neutral sending unit. :?:

Spud

[Weldangrind]

I looked at the harness while the cover was off, but that's it. It's completing the circuit based on gear selector position, so that tells me the sender is intact. I wonder if it's just because I'm using an LED.

I'll be pulling the cover back off when my new sprockets arrive, so I'll have another look then. I'll also check with a test light and a meter to see if the same behaviour exists.