Roketa Lifan 200cc stator and electrical help

sgjames · 07-17-2015, 12:16 AM

Hey folks.
I did my home work, and double the effort, considering not very much is abundant OR useful for the off brand motor owner. I have experience, more then the average newbie, in small engines and bikes and quads. This is my latest purchase/ project, a Roketa enduro. The past owners insurance card listed RSM200, research shows Lifan 200cc engines are the same as well. The engine code, 163FM1, doesnt bring much, but if the last number is actually an "L" then 163FML brings results. I have also seen compatible things such as the GY6 engine. My first question is what do i really have?

Now, what i am needing help with is the wiring. After riding lately, the battery holds no charge, I found several shorts, my blinkers would die when i applied brakes, i had little or no tail lights o brake lights, head lights would work sporadically... I just bit the bullet, stripped down, and re wired.
I found several wiring diagrams, and info, some basic electronic knowledge and ohming out switches, wires, etc. I'm damn close.

http://planetminis.com/forums/attach...3&d=1257355683

the above I found in a chinarider forum
http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14124

So once I found a rub on one of the wires coming from the stator, I decided to pull it all out and start from the solder points. From the stator itself I had 4 wires, White, Green, Yellow, and Red w/ Black tracer. From the "pick up", I have 2 wires, Green, and a Blue w/ White. Both greens tied together, and I had a total of 5 wires coming from the "magneto regions". I rewired it all back to the CDI and Rectifier, leaving out all accessories. Fired up fine.

Wires up all accessories, tapped into a 12v supply to check everything, and it was successful. So I installed the new battery, and took a ride. Something still seems a bit off. I check while running, at the battery terminals, for DC voltage, and it read 12.22. After turning off, the battery (as expected) slowly rose to 12.6. But it should be reading 14 or so and it's not, so rectifier? I pulled the battery and checked for voltage again, at the leads for the battery, and it only read around 3 volts. Rectifier, right?

They're cheap enough, and I have one on order...

I diode tested it as well, and got .434 between two leads, and .840 or so through the third (which i think was the ground and hot (red) lead). From the research i've done, I should have 3 spots that read an almost equal number one way, and not in reverse polarity.

<iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/F8EjV0IjW9Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

So checked at the wires, while the stator was installed, checking for continuity between the stator leads and the engine case itself, and was getting ZERO resistance between the two, when I should be getting infinite resistance, correct?

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/f8MmrXsEpjQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I plan on pulling it back out and double checking it all in hand, but would love to know the answer to this question when i do. Can I rotate the stator to the opposite holes and get different results? When i pulled it, I noticed one coil had a heavy wrapping of insulator, and it was on the opposite side of the starter opening. What if I spin the stator to the other bolt holes and the insulated part is at the opposite side?

I also ordered a new one since they are cheap enough.... it should arrive by next week with the rectifier, as well as a replacement CDI.

So my rectifier has 5 wires, Black (ignition hot), Red (battery hot all times), green (ground), pink (stator, my white wire), and yellow (stator, white wire). My CDI had 6 wires wired up, Black w/ white (kill) Black w/ yellow (coil), Green (ground), Green w/ white or yellow tracer (went to stator but original wiring too far shot to tell which wire), Blue w/ white (pick up had blue w/ white, so i wired it to that), and a Black w/ red (stator had a black w/ red that I assume went to the CDI). As it's wired it runs. Does that speak for itself, or could I still be having something in the wrong spot?

Hopefully some one here has been where i am, or knows enough to help me get out of ignorance, and understand a bit more. I may get lucky and have the new stator, CDI, and rectifier labeled and have coordinating wires... that be asking a bit, huh?

Thanks folks, I appreciate any help you can give.

Adjuster · 07-17-2015, 01:37 AM

Hello and welcome.

Check your voltage at the battery with your engine up to speed. Mine at idle only reads 12v but at speed say maybe around 20mph I get the correct 13.7 or so at the battery. I have one of these on my bike and keep a constant eye on my voltage.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Auto-LCD...item2a337ce362

/

Weldangrind · 07-17-2015, 11:22 AM

Thanks for the link, Adjuster. I just bought two of 'em.

Welcome sgjames!

Adjuster · 07-17-2015, 12:27 PM

Yeh the price is certainly right. One warning don't leave plugged in over extended periods of time if hooked unswitched directly to your battery. After about three days of the bike not being started it drained my battery. These things are great for cars, boats, motorcycles etc and super cheap.

/

jct842 · 07-17-2015, 02:42 PM

I also got a couple, and there was a link for some that have to be wired in so I got 3 of those. One for the new bike one for the antique scooter and since they say needs at least 4.5v I got one for my 8n ford with 6v and reverse polarity! Will wire them in off ign. Sw. So battery doesn'run down.

SpudRider · 07-17-2015, 02:50 PM

Sgjames,

Welcome; we are glad you joined us.

SpudRider · 07-17-2015, 02:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adjuster

Hello and welcome.

Check your voltage at the battery with your engine up to speed. Mine at idle only reads 12v but at speed say maybe around 20mph I get the correct 13.7 or so at the battery. I have one of these on my bike and keep a constant eye on my voltage.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Auto-LCD...item2a337ce362

/

Thanks for posting the good link.

rich_e · 07-17-2015, 03:07 PM

I'm all to familiar with monitoring charging systems. Both my 79 CB-750 and Kawasaki Vulcan 750 are known for weak charging system components. I installed these LED battery gauges on both of them.

They are Kuryakyn brand and run about $35 though. I'm sure there are less expensive options available though. I particularly like the one linked above, it is less than $2.

andyj812 · 07-17-2015, 08:40 PM

Thanks for the link I also ordered 2. Installed a power point the other day for gps so can plug in there.

sgjames · 07-17-2015, 11:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adjuster

Hello and welcome.

Check your voltage at the battery with your engine up to speed. Mine at idle only reads 12v but at speed say maybe around 20mph I get the correct 13.7 or so at the battery. I have one of these on my bike and keep a constant eye on my voltage.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Auto-LCD...item2a337ce362

/

Thanks for the welcome, and the sharing

I did check it at idle, and then gave it throttle. I did not drive it though. So i will be taking my volt meter from my car

http://www.ebay.com/itm/3x-Red-0-36-...item4d2fa6648e

and throwing that on to check, i will update you by monday (long weekend ahead). I like your suggested volt meter, but I hate cigarette outlets. not the outlets themselves, but the plug ends-they always seem to suck, and I'm wondering how you even get yours to work while on a bike nonetheless

any idea about whether turning the stator one bolt pattern or the other will affect anything?

Thanks again Adjuster

Weldangrind · 07-18-2015, 02:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jct842

I also got a couple, and there was a link for some that have to be wired in so I got 3 of those. One for the new bike one for the antique scooter and since they say needs at least 4.5v I got one for my 8n ford with 6v and reverse polarity! Will wire them in off ign. Sw. So battery doesn'run down.

Please start a thread on your 8N!

Also, please show us a link to the wired gauges.

jct842 · 07-18-2015, 04:59 PM

http://www.ebay.com/itm/371221499016...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The 8n will have to wait till I get the meter and crank it up. I haven't used it since last fall. When I was building here I used it daily. Must have jerked out hundreds of small trees chaining them to the front bumper with some slack and go like hell in reverse. Broke a weld on the bumper doing it. Was going to restore it but that is a project I could not justify cost on. john

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...d=739138017024

sgjames · 07-19-2015, 09:52 PM

So is the engine i have now, by looking at the vin plate, and the pictured engine code, a GY6, the same as a 163FML, and a Lifan 200cc engine? Are they all the same thing?

Weldangrind · 07-20-2015, 11:13 AM

No. A GY6 is a scooter motor that has been adapted to several quads and dune buggies, but I haven't actually seen one on a dual sport.

The 163FML is a vertical air-cooled engine with a 63mm bore. The "L" indicates 200cc. It could be Lifan, Zongshen or others.

sgjames · 07-20-2015, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Weldangrind

No. A GY6 is a scooter motor that has been adapted to several quads and dune buggies, but I haven't actually seen one on a dual sport.

The 163FML is a vertical air-cooled engine with a 63mm bore. The "L" indicates 200cc. It could be Lifan, Zongshen or others.

THANK YOU!!

ok, so the 163FML is NOT the GY6 engine. But do they share similar internal parts at all?

I'm uploading pics of the bike itself, please call out anything you know for certain about it. I was told the forks had come off a yamaha, maybe honda, so those arent stock (according to the seller), and I believe that the frame may not even be a Roketa, although the plastics and engine are. But both of those facts are trivial to what I am trying to accomplish right now.

Adjuster, I didnt get a chance to test voltage while riding yet, and still plan on it, hopefully tomorrow. But I tested while reving the engine in neutral, and that showed no increase from 12.4 max...

Here are the links to the products I just purchased for the electrical system tune up:

CDI
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160684590936

STATOR
http://www.ebay.com/itm/180993186942

RECTIFIER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121453514889

now, I know that ebay listing arent always accurate with pics, and some are just general pics of the items being purchased. These seemed to be real pictures of the same items for sale, and with that said, they look damn near identical to what I currently have (and am assuming it's stock to the engine, and hasnt been changed or upgraded). I have done enough ebaying to know what to buy, and what to avoid, and I'm confident I got the same thing I thought i was buying.
Please correct me if im wrong.

Thanks again for everyones' welcomes and helpfulness!!

07-17-2015, 12:16 AM	#1
sgjames Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 7	Roketa Lifan 200cc stator and electrical help Hey folks. I did my home work, and double the effort, considering not very much is abundant OR useful for the off brand motor owner. I have experience, more then the average newbie, in small engines and bikes and quads. This is my latest purchase/ project, a Roketa enduro. The past owners insurance card listed RSM200, research shows Lifan 200cc engines are the same as well. The engine code, 163FM1, doesnt bring much, but if the last number is actually an "L" then 163FML brings results. I have also seen compatible things such as the GY6 engine. My first question is what do i really have? Now, what i am needing help with is the wiring. After riding lately, the battery holds no charge, I found several shorts, my blinkers would die when i applied brakes, i had little or no tail lights o brake lights, head lights would work sporadically... I just bit the bullet, stripped down, and re wired. I found several wiring diagrams, and info, some basic electronic knowledge and ohming out switches, wires, etc. I'm damn close. http://planetminis.com/forums/attach...3&d=1257355683 the above I found in a chinarider forum http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14124 So once I found a rub on one of the wires coming from the stator, I decided to pull it all out and start from the solder points. From the stator itself I had 4 wires, White, Green, Yellow, and Red w/ Black tracer. From the "pick up", I have 2 wires, Green, and a Blue w/ White. Both greens tied together, and I had a total of 5 wires coming from the "magneto regions". I rewired it all back to the CDI and Rectifier, leaving out all accessories. Fired up fine. Wires up all accessories, tapped into a 12v supply to check everything, and it was successful. So I installed the new battery, and took a ride. Something still seems a bit off. I check while running, at the battery terminals, for DC voltage, and it read 12.22. After turning off, the battery (as expected) slowly rose to 12.6. But it should be reading 14 or so and it's not, so rectifier? I pulled the battery and checked for voltage again, at the leads for the battery, and it only read around 3 volts. Rectifier, right? They're cheap enough, and I have one on order... I diode tested it as well, and got .434 between two leads, and .840 or so through the third (which i think was the ground and hot (red) lead). From the research i've done, I should have 3 spots that read an almost equal number one way, and not in reverse polarity. <iframe width="420" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/F8EjV0IjW9Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> So checked at the wires, while the stator was installed, checking for continuity between the stator leads and the engine case itself, and was getting ZERO resistance between the two, when I should be getting infinite resistance, correct? <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/f8MmrXsEpjQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe> I plan on pulling it back out and double checking it all in hand, but would love to know the answer to this question when i do. Can I rotate the stator to the opposite holes and get different results? When i pulled it, I noticed one coil had a heavy wrapping of insulator, and it was on the opposite side of the starter opening. What if I spin the stator to the other bolt holes and the insulated part is at the opposite side? I also ordered a new one since they are cheap enough.... it should arrive by next week with the rectifier, as well as a replacement CDI. So my rectifier has 5 wires, Black (ignition hot), Red (battery hot all times), green (ground), pink (stator, my white wire), and yellow (stator, white wire). My CDI had 6 wires wired up, Black w/ white (kill) Black w/ yellow (coil), Green (ground), Green w/ white or yellow tracer (went to stator but original wiring too far shot to tell which wire), Blue w/ white (pick up had blue w/ white, so i wired it to that), and a Black w/ red (stator had a black w/ red that I assume went to the CDI). As it's wired it runs. Does that speak for itself, or could I still be having something in the wrong spot? Hopefully some one here has been where i am, or knows enough to help me get out of ignorance, and understand a bit more. I may get lucky and have the new stator, CDI, and rectifier labeled and have coordinating wires... that be asking a bit, huh? Thanks folks, I appreciate any help you can give.
	0

07-17-2015, 11:22 AM	#3
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	Thanks for the link, Adjuster. I just bought two of 'em. Welcome sgjames! __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

07-17-2015, 02:50 PM	#6
SpudRider Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Idaho Posts: 25,054	Sgjames, Welcome; we are glad you joined us. __________________ Spud "Never argue with an idiot. He will drag you down to his level, and beat you with experience." Mark Twain 2015 Zongshen ZS250GY-3 (RX3) 2006 Zongshen ZS200GY-2 (Sierra 200) 2005 Honda XR650L 2004 Honda CRF250X 1998 Kawasaki KDX220 Mods made to my Zongshen ZS200GY-2: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=6894
	0

07-17-2015, 03:07 PM	#8
rich_e Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Kansas, USA Posts: 228	I'm all to familiar with monitoring charging systems. Both my 79 CB-750 and Kawasaki Vulcan 750 are known for weak charging system components. I installed these LED battery gauges on both of them. They are Kuryakyn brand and run about $35 though. I'm sure there are less expensive options available though. I particularly like the one linked above, it is less than $2. __________________ 2000 HD XL1200C 2006 Hi-Bird QH-250-GY 2004 150CC Dual Sport (Chongqing Xgjao) 1978 Honda CB750K 1977 Honda GL-1000 (Goldwing) Project/Parts bikes 1977 Honda CB-750K 1977 Honda CB-550F
	0

07-20-2015, 11:13 AM	#14
Weldangrind Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Sardis, BC, Canada Posts: 25,977	No. A GY6 is a scooter motor that has been adapted to several quads and dune buggies, but I haven't actually seen one on a dual sport. The 163FML is a vertical air-cooled engine with a 63mm bore. The "L" indicates 200cc. It could be Lifan, Zongshen or others. __________________ Weldangrind "I figure I'm well-prepared for coping with a bike that comes from the factory with unresolved issues and that rewards the self-reliant owner." - Buccaneer
	0

07-17-2015, 01:37 AM	#2
Adjuster Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Deerfield Beach FL Posts: 1,410	Hello and welcome. Check your voltage at the battery with your engine up to speed. Mine at idle only reads 12v but at speed say maybe around 20mph I get the correct 13.7 or so at the battery. I have one of these on my bike and keep a constant eye on my voltage. http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Auto-LCD...item2a337ce362 /
	0

07-17-2015, 12:27 PM	#4
Adjuster Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Deerfield Beach FL Posts: 1,410	Yeh the price is certainly right. One warning don't leave plugged in over extended periods of time if hooked unswitched directly to your battery. After about three days of the bike not being started it drained my battery. These things are great for cars, boats, motorcycles etc and super cheap. /
	0

07-17-2015, 02:42 PM	#5
jct842 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: arkansas Posts: 297	I also got a couple, and there was a link for some that have to be wired in so I got 3 of those. One for the new bike one for the antique scooter and since they say needs at least 4.5v I got one for my 8n ford with 6v and reverse polarity! Will wire them in off ign. Sw. So battery doesn'run down.
	0

07-17-2015, 08:40 PM	#9
andyj812 Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Indiana 812 area code Posts: 293	Thanks for the link I also ordered 2. Installed a power point the other day for gps so can plug in there.
	0

07-18-2015, 04:59 PM	#12
jct842 Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: arkansas Posts: 297	http://www.ebay.com/itm/371221499016...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT The 8n will have to wait till I get the meter and crank it up. I haven't used it since last fall. When I was building here I used it daily. Must have jerked out hundreds of small trees chaining them to the front bumper with some slack and go like hell in reverse. Broke a weld on the bumper doing it. Was going to restore it but that is a project I could not justify cost on. john http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...d=739138017024
	0

07-19-2015, 09:52 PM	#13
sgjames Join Date: Jul 2015 Posts: 7	So is the engine i have now, by looking at the vin plate, and the pictured engine code, a GY6, the same as a 163FML, and a Lifan 200cc engine? Are they all the same thing?
	0