break in over?

[Zapkin]

Originally Posted by buzz

way to lean my friend,needs bigger jet.

yeah but can I let it slide for a little bit? a few weeks maybe? I dont want to do any damage.

[Bill Hilly]

It's lean enough that it may pay you to run half choke all the time, if it will run half choked. I would say it would, but you are not getting the best of your bike .

[XLsior]

a lean condition has far more damage potential than a rich condition.

If the current carb is tamper proof you might be able to shim the needle as minor reprieve from the engine overheating.

or as Bill Hilly suggested run partial choke till the carburetor situation can be amended.

[Bill Hilly]

You really don't need to wait till you can buy a PE28FL. You can just replace the main, and do nothing else on the needle (although you can if you want), and leave the pilot jet alone, and run your bike just fine, and dandy, and if you do decide to go with an aftermarket exhaust, or de cat the existing exhaust, just go to a slightly bigger main. If you were to get the PE28FL you would still have to up your main if you modded your exhaust. It's a 5 minute job to slot the bowl screws, and pull out the anti tamper plug over the idle mixture screw, and once it's done, it's done, and your stock carb is vastly improved. Don't believe some of the post on the Facebook sights were people claim that the PE28 on a stock bike turns the bike into a beast. When I was on them sights, someone was always making claims of pulling 3 gear throttle only wheelies, or running 80 mph after installing a PE28, The only real advantage on a stock bike, or bike with only exhaust work, that the PE28 probably really has over the VM26 clone, is the idle mixture is much easier to get to, and the only real advantage that the VM26 has on the stock PZ30, once they have been opened,is the fact that the pilot jets ,are now next to impossible to find, but you can get by on your stock pilot. When you say running the ridges, may make a difference, I'm pretty sure up in the Northern Panhandle, in the Northern Ohio Valley, you probably have about the same, or just slightly more hilly terrain than what we have here in the Mid Ohio Valley, were the highest ridges in the area are still under 1,500 ft. I was on some high ridges today, and could see over several valleys and see ridges over in neighboring counties, and was probably no higher than 1,100 ft. The highest point in my county is Garnes Knob, and it's around 1,200 ft.. Ohio County is not as low as Jackson county, but still pretty low, and definitely not enough to make any discernable difference in oxygen levels.

[Zapkin]

When it comes to the carb, I just want something that will bolt right up and use the nibbi cone filter I already have. I also want to be able to adjust it with relative ease. for now I am going to try running her on half choke and just keep the miles down until I can either get a dremel tool and work on the stock carb or get another carb. heck I'd probably be better served to spend the carb money on the tools necessary to work on the stock carb and then I'd have them. Lemme think on this.

[XLsior]

You could put the stock air filter back until you get the tools to fettle the carburetor.

The increased airflow with the aftermarket filter probably is a main contributor to the lean condition.

[letsride]

There was an ebay seller selling Hawk 250 Carb kits. They came with a jet assortment and new float bowl screws. I agree that plug look awfully lean. That's a fast way (in Mega Dan's words) to give that piston a sun roof. I've done it before, Albeit it was on a small block chevy race motor but one pass on a massive lean condition took the motor out.

[Zapkin]

Originally Posted by XLsior

You could put the stock air filter back until you get the tools to fettle the carburetor.

The increased airflow with the aftermarket filter probably is a main contributor to the lean condition.

Still have the stock airbox. I bought the Nibbi but never installed it.

[Zapkin]

I think perhaps I am going to let her sit for a while. I don't want to ruin my motor due to being impatient and procrastination...seems like a weird combination but I can do it.

[su98]

Originally Posted by Zapkin

That's why I call them units. A dude on YouTube with the same bike did a bunch of measurements, and it turns out they are somewhere between kilometers and miles. At first, he suspected nautical miles, I guess. I want to say the ratio he came up with was about 1 mile = 1.35 units. So...that would be about 370 miles. Maybe I will use the t4 one more time. I was sort of anal about oil changing on my gy 5...did it every 500 miles (units), give or take, but usually just used the cheapest wet clutch compatible oil I could find. This was in 2008-09. Anyway, in all seriousness, thanks for the help, fellas.

I go by my TOTAL TIME METER / TACH & GPS 100 Hrs / 500-650 miles

[zero_dgz]

Originally Posted by Bill Hilly

500 showing in your stock odometer would,most likely be 500 kilometers, equal to 300 miles.

Luckily this is immaterial, because the notion that it takes "500" or "600" miles to bed the piston into the cylinder bore, remove the crosshatching, and seat the piston rings is a myth. The majority of crosshatching is worn away within mere minutes, and your piston rings will never get any more seated than they will be by the equivalent of 20 miles or so of riding.


The manufacturer recommendation of such a long break in period is to A) get new riders acquainted with their bikes by taking it easy for a while rather than pulling dank nooners right off the dealership lot, and B) to provide a time for the owner to schedule a first service appointment by which time any potential factory/assembly defects should be evident by then, any loose bolts vibrated out and identified, etc. so the dealership can rectify them before it turns into a lawsuit.



Of course, for a Chinese crate bike there is no such thing as a first service appointment at the dealership, but as usual it was a case of monkey see, monkey copy and put in the manual without understanding the rationale.

[Zapkin]

I put the choke at halfway. The bike runs. No real throttle issues, but I only went about 15 miles.

[Zapkin]

Originally Posted by zero_dgz

Of course, for a Chinese crate bike there is no such thing as a first service appointment at the dealership, but as usual it was a case of monkey see, monkey copy and put in the manual without understanding the rationale.

Dealers are a money making scam.

[Bill Hilly]

Originally Posted by Zapkin

I put the choke at halfway. The bike runs. No real throttle issues, but I only went about 15 miles.

The fact that it seems to have no problem running half choked on a hot motor only solidly verifies what everyone has been saying. I wouldn't want to recommend anything that would cause carbon build up, BUT, if you pull your plug now, and it's not sooty black, then you are probably just fine running it half choke till you get a properly jetted carb on it. I'm still more than willing to send you a few main jets, and that adapter that I made that would allow you to use the Nibbi 48mm filter. It's doing me no good just having jets that I will never use just sitting in the bottom of a cookie tin.

[Zapkin]

I know you guys are sick of hearing from me, but.....

I have chosen this carb.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...HWYVXAFU&psc=1

I assume it will work and its pretty cheap.