Camber adjustment

[turbofiat124]

I mentioned that my Bravo 110 veers off in one direction or the other on pavement at high speeds unless I hold onto the handlebars really tight.

I thought the toe-in was off but if looks fine to me. But I noticed that the front wheels has as way too much positive camber.



Is there anyway to correct this? I can't see any adjustments that stick out other than the tie rods to correct the toe-in.

I also noticed that the front wheels stick out about an inch further than the rears. I don't know what you call that. In that case I could install spacers and longer wheel studs on the rear wheels to match the distance between the fronts.

Can someone tell me if the positive camber and the distance being wider between the front wheels are there for a reason? My friend who gave this to me said it was to make it harder to flip.

As far as the positive camber is concerned, I have no idea what the purpose of that is.

[FLASHLIGHTBOY]

The front wheels on a lot of atvs is wider on the front than the back to make it stabilze.. you can get spacers on EBAY front extend bolts to aluminum spacers.... as far as moving the wheels for camber... I think they are fixed... it they are... you can not do anything about it... make sure the wheel aligment is right. front to back of front wheels the same spread... or there abouts... ( some like 1/8 toe in or ??? ) but have the same air pressure in all tires... and the same spread on the left side... ( front to back( and th e same on the right side.. this is all you can do if the front axle is non adjustable...

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by turbofiat124

I mentioned that my Bravo 110 veers off in one direction or the other on pavement at high speeds......

Sounds like bump steer. Try flopping the inner tie rods upside down.

Would this be helpful?

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=13896

[zackattack91]

On my coolster 3150dx2 you can't flip the inner tie rods so that the threads are pointed down. They bump into the steering bar. Can only turn about 1/4 to right and left. I don't know if it's because it's a utility style ATV and the frame is different or something. Because most of the sport style ATV s have the inner tie rod ends pointed down. But my coolster came with them pointed up from the bottom and aren't able to be flipped to the top and functional because of the steering bar problem.

[turbofiat124]

Yeah I read that post. I checked to see if the ends of the tie rods were pointed in opposite directions and both ends on both sides are pointed downwards.

I've sort of gotten used to riding it this way. I wouldn't really call it bump steer because it has nothing to do with hitting a bump but while driving on smooth pavement. On bumping grass, it does fine.

I have a long steep driveway.

The best way to describe it is the steering is "touchy". Meaning it wants to over compensate. Sort of like a car with a larger steering wheel versus a smaller steering wheel. With my 68 Ford which has manual steering, the gear ratio is increased (reduced?) to where it makes it easier to steer. The downside is I have to turn the steering wheel 3 revolutions to make a 90 degree turn. On my Fiat Spider, about 1/2 to 3/4 revolution is all it takes.

I have not checked the condition of the tie-rod ends to see if they are worn.

A good comparison is the difference in braking between my Subaru and my wife's Nissan Cube. Whenever I'd drive her car, if I used the same amount of foot pressure to stop my Subaru, the Nissan would throw me into the dashboard.

Not saying that the Nissan had better brakes, just saying there is a difference in foot pressure required for both cars.

[Mudflap]

Try toeing it out. Solved my similar issue.