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Old 04-10-2014, 12:05 PM   #46
pchitti   pchitti is offline
 
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Doh!

Got the exhaust off the bike, has a pipe rolling around in it... Not messing with it till I pick up a rivet gun and some rivets.

Might have a bad idea started though. The rear subframe looks to be rather easily modified.



Makes me want to cut off the last 1.5-2" where it bolts. Would drop the rear end down real nice, giving it less of the face down @$$ up look. Also would make the seat even lower. Would require a custom seat pan or finding one that would fit close with the new angle. Ignore the high tech method for holding the evap and cdi...


 
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Old 04-10-2014, 01:17 PM   #47
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So after measuring it looks like 4.24" for the peg bracket. So cutting the extra length would shorten it about 3" dropping the rear to around 39" instead of 42". Thats with nofancy calculations for the angle change/height.

Looks like I need to pick up a new rear subframe, or just build a custom one. Time to start buttering up the welding buddies.


 
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Old 04-10-2014, 07:11 PM   #48
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Uni pod is installed! Removed the evap canister as it wasntn even hooked up to anything but the gas tank. Tried to clean up the electronics and wiring as much as possible. Some need to be extended others shortened before it will look clean. Headlight adjustment is broke and lights up the fender brighter than the sun. Doesnt make for good night vision. Guess I will start the hunt for a headlight replacement. Pics coming later tonight of the latest changes.

Oh think im going to try to build the custom seat frame. Should be easier than ordering one and modifying.


 
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Old 04-10-2014, 11:12 PM   #49
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Search on ebay for the headlight. Search for "streetfighter headlight". You'll find a headlight like yours but the bulb will be two small of wattage. Check out the pictures of the inside, though. You might be able to swap out your housing.
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Old 04-11-2014, 12:51 AM   #50
Weldangrind   Weldangrind is offline
 
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Cool idea on shortening the subframe.
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:34 AM   #51
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Wires cleaned up and rerouted, still need to figure out where Im going to put the CDI.

closer view


 
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Old 04-11-2014, 10:39 AM   #52
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Oh and I think the 42mm is the proper size, the 44mm had to be tightened down pretty hard. Also if anyone else is thinking about doing this, GET THE ANGLED filter. lol I will be ordering a 42mm angled soon. The non angled gets wedged between the rear spring and frame.

I saw a guy on mychinamoto that had relocated his battery closer to the engine. Im going to look into his mod and see if it will work better for me. Will make it easier to relocate the starter solenoid and CDI. Safe riding guys!


 
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Old 04-11-2014, 03:02 PM   #53
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So got to do my first highway jaunt. Not good, plenty of power and gear but the front fender and side plastic are taking me all over the road.
Now it is pretty windy, but both dirrections i had to let off and hold it around I think 50 mph. Still no speedometer.

Any sugestions? Im about ready just to leave the side plastic off.


 
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Old 04-12-2014, 12:00 PM   #54
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I'm thinking that the side panels wouldn't be as much of an issue with a decent supermoto front fender. I've picked up universal Polisport SM fenders in the past for cheap.
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Old 04-12-2014, 01:23 PM   #55
milarepa999   milarepa999 is offline
 
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I personally like a low front fender close to the wheel, I have such a fender for my XF200 that I was planning on riveting to the fork guards. I just have not done this yet because I didn’t want to punch holes in the guards yet as it runs quite alright for me at this time. Someday I will buy a extra set of fork guards and do this mod. It will def. make the bike more aerodynamic and will keep the mud and debris off the engine. I’ve had the bike for four seasons now and just have been happy enough with it to disregard this idea for a while. I’ve had a front fender for 3 years for this idea.


 
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Old 04-12-2014, 04:43 PM   #56
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Riviting it to the guards is a great idea. Guess who just bought a rivet gun... now to trim and reshape the stock one or buy a different one.

Is the stock one on this that bad? I didnt even think about the front fender as the issue.

Oh EGR system is gone, new tail light installed with plate. New front bearings are next on the list. Sounds like brake rotor chatter and have been informed that was the issue with another riders bike. At least its a cheap job. Whats the best way to test the bearings with no center stand?


 
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:00 PM   #57
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The best way to inspect the wheel bearings is to remove the wheel. I always inspect the wheel bearings every time I remove a wheel, for any reason. After the wheel is removed, remove all spacers and bearing covers from the wheel. At that point it is very easy to visually, and manually inspect the wheel bearings.
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:36 PM   #58
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Any sugestions on getting the weight off the front? No center stand and no access to the shop i usually work on my bikes at. Will be a couple weeks more than likely till i can get into the shop.


 
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:41 PM   #59
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New brake light installed, but it seems some thing is wrong with the light. When the brake is pressed with the lights on, it brightens the license plate lights. The red is brighter with running lights than when you press the brakes with no lights on... damn ebay.


 
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Old 04-12-2014, 10:46 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pchitti View Post
Any sugestions on getting the weight off the front? No center stand and no access to the shop i usually work on my bikes at. Will be a couple weeks more than likely till i can get into the shop.
i use a 5 gallon bucket or an old ice chest as a work stand for my bike...or you could easily build a stand out of scrap lumber...


 
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