Ssr xf250

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by 1cylinderwonder

If seems if you purchase a "new" XF250 the new owner must recalibrate and rejet the carburetor, remove the catalytic converter, replace the stock muffler, drill breathing holes in the air box and replace the front or rear sprockets with different sprockets with different number of teeth. Seems like a lot of work, hassle and expense just to ride the bike home!
I usually ride most of my new bikes a hundred miles or further on my initial ride home from the dealer. Will I be able to keep up with traffic on the highways on my initial ride to the bike's new home? Or will I become a traffic "hazard" and impediment to the flow of traffic?
If the above is over stated, what would be the "minimum" amount of corrections needed to get the new XF250 to my home with a comfortable, smooth, enjoyable and trouble free ride?

You could ride it completely stock forever, just like other bikes here. It's just that we like to tinker and get the most out of them. It's not mandatory.

[1cylinderwonder]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

You could ride it completely stock forever, just like other bikes here. It's just that we like to tinker and get the most out of them. It's not mandatory.

2LZ and dh,
Thanks for the detailed information. I also like to tinker with every bike I've owned. I'm happy to know that I can travel home from the dealer comfortably without any mandatory fixes. Just didn't want to feel like I was riding a misfit motorcycle on my maiden journey. Looking forward to June when I can pick up the new bike.

[clark]

2LZ,
I like that white seat! I had a spray can of vinyl white paint e-bay delivered to the front door yesterday. Here in FL, if you leave the cycle outside in the sun - momentarily - the stock black seat gets HOT! Thus... the need for a white seat. (And a white helmet.)

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by 1cylinderwonder

2LZ and dh,
Thanks for the detailed information. I also like to tinker with every bike I've owned. I'm happy to know that I can travel home from the dealer comfortably without any mandatory fixes. Just didn't want to feel like I was riding a misfit motorcycle on my maiden journey. Looking forward to June when I can pick up the new bike.

No problem 1CW. Although, I would definitely recommend back roads coming home from the dealer. Like any break-in, especially with an OHC, there are "hot spots" throughout the motor (cam bearings especially, crank bearings, etc...) that create far more heat as they wear in. No over-revving and varied throttle is best. After your 500 miles and an oil change, go for it!

That is one thing that I really appreciate about China Riders is that most of us "can't leave well-enough alone" and can't help but bust out the wrenches and improve things (cheaply! ;-) ). Sharing that information here is what makes this community so special.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by clark

2LZ,
I like that white seat! I had a spray can of vinyl white paint e-bay delivered to the front door yesterday. Here in FL, if you leave the cycle outside in the sun - momentarily - the stock black seat gets HOT! Thus... the need for a white seat. (And a white helmet.)

I now what you mean! We run close to 100' (sometimes over) here most of the summer. If there's no shade to park under....you keep going to the next bar! ;-)

That was one of the few differences between the XP and XF. The two tone seat (it's actually light gray). I wanted the 21/18 wheel setup but wow....the XF far outsold the XP. Everyone (at least here) really liked that supermoto look of the XF. I guess that's why SSR stuck with the smaller wheel setup on the new XF250. The dual-sport version only has an 18 on the front.

[timcosby]

vary your speed on the way home to break it in right no wide open 10 minutes runs.

[1cylinderwonder]

Haynes Service & Repair Manual #5750 For Sale.
It is brand new and still in it's unopened protective plastic wrap.
It covers the SSR XF250 and the various models of the SSR 125cc bikes.
Selling price is $40.00 plus shipping. Check the classified section under accessories for photo of the book.

[1cylinderwonder]

Duplicate, please DELETE

[dh]

Too bad it didn't work out. What bike have you purchased instead?

[1cylinderwonder]

dh,
I purchased a 2017 CSC RXR. A little more displacement and power than the XF250, but close to the same price. Weights are very similar also.
I was just getting tired of delay after delay in getting a bike to replace the one I sold about 8 months ago. So now I should be riding within a week.
Thanks for asking.

[dh]

Great choice! You don't want to miss out on riding this summer.

[Derekon2s]

I was at a light sunday on my way home and I saw some guy riding a black RPS Hawk.. i was like wait.. stop, lets be friends... lol. Unfortunately I was in my cage and he probably would have looked at my like I was nuts. I get that look alot.

[Derekon2s]

I finally got my jet kit in - used the sigma. The kit seems pretty good but the diagrams aren't very good. It's running, but the idle is kinda all over. I can't get it dialed in. When I think I've gotten close it dies, or bogs down when I give it throttle. I'm thinking I'll have to do some troubleshooting to see how it runs full throttle cold vs hot to see if the main jet is correct or if I need to change it.(like in the CV tuning guide you linked me to) I did also drill some holes in the top of the air box, removed the air injection all together, and removed spark arrestor and drilled a bigger hole in the exhaust. Overall it seems better, but I'm sure I have a ways to go on the carb tuning.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by Derekon2s

I finally got my jet kit in - used the sigma. The kit seems pretty good but the diagrams aren't very good. It's running, but the idle is kinda all over. I can't get it dialed in. When I think I've gotten close it dies, or bogs down when I give it throttle. I'm thinking I'll have to do some troubleshooting to see how it runs full throttle cold vs hot to see if the main jet is correct or if I need to change it.(like in the CV tuning guide you linked me to) I did also drill some holes in the top of the air box, removed the air injection all together, and removed spark arrestor and drilled a bigger hole in the exhaust. Overall it seems better, but I'm sure I have a ways to go on the carb tuning.

Yep, sounds like there's somehting oing on with the carb still. I suggest taking it off, back apart and going over everything. A varying idle is usually caused by an air leak or something leaning it out.

Did you plug the vac line, head hole, etc...when you removed the aitr injection? Make sure that's all sealed off.

[Megadan]

A wavering idle is also a sign of being a little too rich on the pilot/idle mixture. If the idle dips, but comes back after a rev, and then starts dropping back off, it is usually a sign of being rich. If the idle won't respond to the idle adjustment screw and then goes into a fast idle and will never respond well inbetween, then it is also likely too rich.

Inversely, if the idle speed hangs after a rev or is really slow to return back to a stable idle, or the idle speed climbs and falls, then it is lean.

I would suggest going back to the original pilot jet unless it was giving you signs that it was too lean - such as light part throttle crusing giving pops and hesitation.