300cc Kit

[ChondaChondaChonda]

Originally Posted by NzBrakelathes

What EFI are you fitting? What is the cost etc?

It's the "Kayo EFI" kit on Taobao. I'm told that it's actually a Rojo.



There is supposed to be a new improved version out that speeds up the learning and adaptation speeds. It also has an in-tank pump setup.



Only 2 GPX FSE250Rs were brought into the US and are pre-production samples. These are the only 2 that will have carburetors. The batch due to arrive in August is reported to have the improved Rojo EFI.



I would love to help them get the software refined and easier for English speakers to understand. Hopefully they will allow end users a way to make more refinements for cases where custom cams and pistons are used.

[sqwert]

Rode to Memphis and back today, took the long way, about 270 miles counting breakfast with Sam She Am and lunch with Tinkerbell. That's about 490 miles all together in two days. Popped into Cycle Gear to buy new mesh pants, budget something in the $200-$300 range. They had a $100 pair and a $500+ pair. The cheap pants had only 12 inch zippers, and boots on my feet would not go through. Also, only 1 pocket, and I need at least 2 to stow all my crap since no zippers on the side to access regular pants pocket. The $500 pair wear, well, $500. I've no need to wear designer mesh.

Next asked for a flat face shield for an open face helmet. Cycle Gear does not even stock such things any more. I use such face shields to replace the windshield since I prefer open bikes. Need a new one after clobbering a turkey at 60mph.

Then asked about a helmet lock, something simple and quick. Think every Japanese motorcycle with a license plate bracket built in the 1970s. Even my Mini Trail CT70H had one. Cycle gear didn't. Nope. Figured I could put a small padlock on the hook bracket on the top box, and BINGO! Easier than feeding a 6 foot cable through the helmet and bike.

E10 is still 12-15% efficiency loss over straight gas, doesn't matter the E10 octane. It all still sucks. Seems higher octane comes from more ethanol, not better gasoline, and the output just gets worse since ethanol is garbage fuel in an engine tuned for gasoline. A couple tanks of E0 93 octane and it's a different motorcycle. Wish I had a local source. Probably going to trailer a couple 55 gallon drums to the nearest Sunoco 29 miles away, toss a quart of Sea Foam in each one so the fuel keeps well, and rig an auxiliary tank or two. The 300 kit makes a bigger difference with fuel contaminated with ethanol. Had there been only rotgut 87 octane E10 in the tank this morning my little Chinese honey and I would have been smashed.

Held 65mph down a gently hilly highway just before getting home this evening. No problems. First gear is still a bit taller than I am comfortable with so next project is a chain and sprocket set with a couple more teeth on the wheel sprocket. About 9000 miles on the original set and wear is starting to show, so about time anyway. The trans has nicely spaced ratios for road racing and ratting windy roads. The spacing could be a little more even for commuting or touring on the road. Off road needs ratios more like the Yamaha XT225 for dual sporting (wider and more even everywhere) or keep the tight first 4 as they are and widen the last for like the TT-R 230. The 300 kit does not really need the gears as close as they are, and keeping the top end while reducing 1st to a slow walk would be ideal. I can dream, can't I?

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by ChondaChondaChonda

It's the "Kayo EFI" kit on Taobao. I'm told that it's actually a Rojo.



There is supposed to be a new improved version out that speeds up the learning and adaptation speeds. It also has an in-tank pump setup.



Only 2 GPX FSE250Rs were brought into the US and are pre-production samples. These are the only 2 that will have carburetors. The batch due to arrive in August is reported to have the improved Rojo EFI.



I would love to help them get the software refined and easier for English speakers to understand. Hopefully they will allow end users a way to make more refinements for cases where custom cams and pistons are used.

I was thinking if I sold enough stuff that it might be he next thing to look at for the RX3, if sales increase I can increase testing on more stuff etc
Bigger front brakes done but want to test with better pads before I attempt to sell to guys etc
It’s going to be the 4 piston set up

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by Citroenjunkie

Although it is difficult to figure out I'm guessing more torque in a wider spread at lower revs and perhaps a little more horsepower.

Longer gearing looks possible but with First gear being so tall, it might all be "flushed" money?

Yes, I am Eeyore, a constant source of optimism

I have a mate going to NZ next month - I can give it to him and he will send from Christchurch

[pete]

Originally Posted by Citroenjunkie

Longer gearing looks possible but with First gear being so tall, it might all be "flushed" money?

GasGas use these motors in the 250 six day enduro bike ..now that there is no carbed yamaha
motors left...

so If first is high as you say GasGas may have changed the first gear ratio...



..

[NzBrakelathes]

I am from Hamilton NZ - I have an RX3 here in China and trust me that 1st gear with the big bore kit is FINE, no real need at all for the 13 tooth sprocket YET I can sell you 1 or more should you want me too.

[sqwert]

The fewer teeth on a sprocket the faster it wears, and the faster the chain wears, and the faster the other sprocket wears. There is a place for 12 and 13 tooth sprockets in racing and such where bikes see relatively few miles. On the other hand, having sprockets wear out in a few thousand miles on a bike that sees lots of mileage is an expensive royal pain in the apples. I like to see 25k or more on a final drive. Not going to happen with 12 or 13 teeth. Better to spring and extra $$$ or 12 to go with a bigger wheel sprocket and a longer chain if you have to gear down.

Whether or not YOU need to gear down is not for me to say. I'm too broad-shouldered to take advantage of speed others take for granted so a slightly lower final drive pretty much costs me nothing. I prefer a slow, walking speed 1st gear idle with the clutch out because many places through which I ride are very tight, and the stock final drive is simply to fast for comfort. I want a slower 1st at idle, and I am willing to give up a few mph before hitting redline to get it. So, a bigger wheel sprocket makes sense for ME!

Anywho, I've about 8500 miles on my cute little Chinese girlfriend, and have already bought a new final drive with o-ring chain and a bigger wheel sprocket. I'm going to try to make the OEM last long enough to get the 300cc kit broken in and see where the powerband ends up. Therefore, I'm very interested what impressions the other 300cc users have on the final result. Hopefully, since I won't be home for another 2 or 3 weeks I'll have some feedback from other users before deciding which rear wheel sprocket to thrash since I have a stock replacement and one with 2 more teeth. I know I'll never get the wide ratios like my 6-speed TWs but I'll live with it.

[2LZ]

I'm not worried about chain life with our type of roads. I am defnitiely thinking of going back to the stock gearing all the way around tho. It would be nice to have a little longer legs now that it can pull from a stop without overly slipping the clutch.

[sqwert]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

I'm not worried about chain life with our type of roads. I am defnitiely thinking of going back to the stock gearing all the way around tho. It would be nice to have a little longer legs now that it can pull from a stop without overly slipping the clutch.

Good choice since you live right in the middle of millions of acres of awesome paved, desert, and forest roads. Those of us who are somewhat light weight and ride from home can get away with the stock ratio, and especially enjoy the midrange boost from the 300 kit out on the paved roads as long as you are careful about the single track.

When I ride that way I have to take home with me. Between altitude, luggage, and bones, even with the 300 kit I expect a couple more teeth will help.

Stock is borderline for startups on the nearly flat roads of home when loaded for travel. Once rolling, ratios are choice! Kind of like a sport bike.

You make a very good point about clutch life when rolling out of parking with a heavy load, big bones, and a steep grade. The 300 will help by reducing rpm at roll out, thus less slipping, but I'll still be planning ahead for the most gentle roll out before parking. The RX3 trans is very different from the TW stroker engines with XT transmissions that I am used to, so I stall a lot. Old habits.

[NzBrakelathes]

Yesterday I did a trip to the Meishan/ a county of that city DMV to transfer my bike to Shuangliu an area of Chengdu and all went well.
300 kit really has little need to rev the living shit out of it, just roll on some gas and away you go etc.

I do have no charging on my bike and few other issues to iron out but at least the bike is in my legal (Be it my Chinese) name etc

was 90Km to the Meishan DMV then 90KM to Shuanliu DMV then 15KM home.

I have the 14 tooth front sprocket and I am sure stock rear, so stock gearing and pulls just fine and in fact maybe a slightly taller gearing wouldn't be a bad thing to reduce the 100KM/PH RPM from around 6000RPM to a little less.

There are only a handful of non Chinese with legal bikes and licenses here and I hate that as all things with effort can be done correctly and with good reason
But that is another story

[sqwert]

Roll on and go pretty much sums up bm impression of the 300 kit, too. When first installed it seemed the 300 kit with no break in, with dyno oil, behaved about the same as the 250cc with a good break in with Mobil 1 synthetic. Now, with a few hundred miles (~685km) break in the 300kit is definitely stronger up to 6000rpm. That is what I wanted. I expected the lack of low and mid range with the OEM displacement was due to a well-flowing air/fuel mix in the top end. That is the price one pays for a 25hp 250. Only turned it faster once and was too concerned avoiding speeding compensatory trucks to note how high it pulled. Pulled well enough to keep me out from under a pipe bumper/grille guard.

Note that the horsepower and torque peaks claimed for the 250 are 9000 and 8000 rpm respectively. I noticed the engine at 250cc did not quit pulling at 9000rpm, but kept right on going a bit more. That is why I chose not to mess with the ports when installing the 300 kit--the power peaks would be more useful for me if they were a bit lower, and so far things seem right. After a few hundred more miles (800km) break in, and a switch to Mobil 1 synthetic, I'll reevaluate the power band and decide what, if anything, I'll do next. If anything, probably just free horsepower mods like a low restriction intake as such mods increase efficiency AND power at no costs. Maybe a final drive adjustment. Too early to tell.

[2LZ]

Originally Posted by sqwert

Now, with a few hundred miles (~685km) break in the 300kit is definitely stronger up to 6000rpm. That is what I wanted. I expected the lack of low and mid range with the OEM displacement was due to a well-flowing air/fuel mix in the top end. That is the price one pays for a 25hp 250.

That is also exactly what I was hoping for. What was very disappointing to me with the OEM 250 (as I've said here a million times) was the utter lack of low end and mid range. It's a four stroke for Christ's sake! If I wanted peaky power, I'd bust out a two stroke and get far more peaky power for the CC's.
Even my old Honda XL250 felt like it had more low end and mid range than the RX3. Four strokes are supposed to be torquey. If they're not, it's like decaf coffee. What's the point?

[NzBrakelathes]

i think the big bore made the engine what it should've always been.
best thing for the bike and if you can DIY it isn't expensive at all.

[ChondaChondaChonda]

Originally Posted by 2LZ

That is also exactly what I was hoping for. What was very disappointing to me with the OEM 250 (as I've said here a million times) was the utter lack of low end and mid range. It's a four stroke for Christ's sake! If I wanted peaky power, I'd bust out a two stroke and get far more peaky power for the CC's.
Even my old Honda XL250 felt like it had more low end and mid range than the RX3. Four strokes are supposed to be torquey. If they're not, it's like decaf coffee. What's the point?

Funny that you put it that way - as I was doing the Tour of Idaho last year I kept thinking that the NC250 felt like a 2-stroker prepped for woods riding. It was why I pursued the big bore. Because it does add the bottom end it now feels like a proper 4-stroke and I am actually going to have to buy another big bore kit for my GPX now.

[NzBrakelathes]

Originally Posted by ChondaChondaChonda

Funny that you put it that way - as I was doing the Tour of Idaho last year I kept thinking that the NC250 felt like a 2-stroker prepped for woods riding. It was why I pursued the big bore. Because it does add the bottom end it now feels like a proper 4-stroke and I am actually going to have to buy another big bore kit for my GPX now.

whats the address? I have 1 ready to ship!